Ford Probe

where is the ecu located on a 97 ford probe

Must be a faulty switch. Mine has been doing that for 8 years, the big difference is that by the 5th or 6th try she starts. If you find out what problem is let me know.

There are two of them. One is under the hood, next to the main fuse box and the other is under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel.

first you should disconnect the negative battery cable if you have an air bag equipped probe. wait for two minutes, then on your dash, there are some dash retainer screws which need to be removed, there should be 2 abouve the cluster on the trim piece, and some have 1-3 underneath the steering column. after that, remove the 4 screws holding the gauge in, pull it out, then remove the wiring harness, not the wires from the harness. then take the cluster to a well lit are and remove the screws holding the plastic cover on. if you have screws holding the gauges in place, remove those as well. you may need to remove the needles to get the gauges to fit if you cant slip them over the needles, as for the tachometer needle, temp needle, oil needle and battery needle, you need to either draw a picture of where they are or take a picture of them to place them back later. if you have to remove the needles, only replace the speedometer to 0, and the fuel gauge meter to where it last was when you had the car turned on. after you have the new gauges on, put as much back together as possible, and take the cluster back to the car with the pastic cover off. hook the wiring harnesses up to the cluster and hook the negative cable back to the battery. turn on your car and wait about a minute or so, then replace all other needles to the position where they were when you took the picture of them. turn off the car and remove the negative battery cable, wait another two minutes. hook up the wiring to your parking lights as this is the best place to draw power. and hook the ground to a secured ground suck as the fender or something metal on the body/chassis. replace the plastic cover and replace the cluster in the dash. attach all screws to reassemble the dash. finito. Good luck.

You have to remove the paneling to decipher whether or not the window came off the track, and needs to be reglued, or whether or not you need a new track in general. Unfortunately, it's not an easy process if the track needs to be replaced. It is not uncommon to have to pay $200-400 dollars for a replacement job, depending on your vehicle. If it is unglued you can easily do it yourself (with the right tools), otherwise your best bet is to take it to a local auto glass shop.

If anyone finds a wiring diagram for the manual window track can you let me know?

~Danielle

Here you go. I put a diagram on my photobucket for you to view.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l199/luvnshay/radiowiring.gif

If it is to loose when you pull the parking brake handle = tighten the bolt that is under the panel that surrounds the parking brake handle on the floor. If it's not the handle there is a wire hooked to an fork with an spring load on each rear brake fundament. Look from behind on the inside of the brake disc and see that the wire is a tight and tension loaded fit. None the above, make sure the brake pads are in recommended value (6 mm thickness of lining with the metal plate)

becz if we use two probes instead of four probes,the current will not flow uniformly to the germanium chip,so there will be more chances of error in d experiment.

If you go underneath, there might be either a large hex or a square that a 3/4inch ratchet will fit. There are two plugs, make sure you take off the top one, the bottom one is to drain it, top to check it of course. it you have something like a cotter pin or a tie strap, bend it and dip part of it in. Be very careful not to drop anything in there! The fluid is a little bit under the check hole, it's fine, if some comes out while checking it, its ok... if lots comes out... either you pulled the wrong plug or it's just over filled. Now, if the color is bright red, it's great, if it's red, it's fine, if it's brownish red, it's passible, if it's brown, you need a tranny service, if it's black..... you should really get your tranny looked at. Haha. .

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go here www.performaceprobe.com you'll find all you need to know there.

There is a carrier bearing on the back side of the engine block just above the oil pan with three 14mm bolts in it. You'll need to remove those. Unbolt the brake caliper via the bracket (removes entire assembly) via 18MM bolts. Remove 1 1/4 inch axle nut in the center of the hub. Then remove the two bolts and nuts from the strut assembly (just above the hub and rotor) and shake the assembly loose. Once the axle is freed from the hub (you may need a hammer to do this) go under the car and use a prybar or large screwdriver and pry the axle loose. It might take some elbow grease, but it will come out. When it starts to move when prying, grab it and give it a vigorous shake while pulling outward. Should slide right out. I just had to do an engine in my '89 which required the removal of the 5 speed trans as well, but if you have an automatic the setup should not be much different. Hope this helps, email wikkedmagick45@nerdshack.com if you have any more Probe questions pertaining to the first generation.

Aotomatic transmission filters are typically inside the transmission just above bottom pan.

Should be the pulley just above the crankshaft pulley

According to the 1997 Ford Probe Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.5 liter V6 engine takes ( 4.2 U.S. quarts / 4.0 liters of 5W-30 )

* 5W-30 is the PREFERRED oil

Bolt pattern 5x114.3 or 5x4.5 Offset 40mm

The canister-style fuel filter is located under the air filter box, back towards the firewall. It is held in a metal bracket with two bolts.They are a royal pain to get to, especially the bottom spring clamp that holds the supply hose on.

If you haven't already had this question answered then maybe I can help. I believe it is located underneath the driverside dash where you will locate the fuse panel. The fuel pump shut off switch is the first black square fuse, there should be three of them lined up verticly. That should help you out.

I am going to take a guess here. I would think fuel pump problem or alternator problem. This is just from my experience with the same problems in cars I once had.

I do believe the nut is 1 1/4 unless it's a mm size.

Under the passenger side of the dashboard.

i wouldn't try it

just buy a pair of 6x8s

If the original broke while the engine was running, there is no point without a rebuild. This is an interference motor, and your valves will most likely be bent, and possible damage to the pistons.

if the belt just needs replaced

1st, remove the spark plug wires, pcv valve,and fresh air lines from the valve cover. next remove the valve cover. all bolts are 10mm the 2 bolts in the center are longer. when the valve cover is removed, jack the passenger side of the car up and secure with a jack stand,remove the wheel, take a 21mm socket and rotate the crank pulley until the i on the intake cam is pointing at the e on the exhaust cam. Remove the alternator (12mm)and power steering belts (14mm and 10mm), remove the upper timing cover(10mm). Using an impact wrench remove the bottom pulley, do not let the upper timing marks move, when the pulley is pulled the wood-ruff key should be facing up. remove the bottom timing cover (10mm), you do not need to remove the water pump pulley the cover will slide from behind. Lock the cams into place, auto parts stores sale a cam lockout tool for around 30 dollars. once the cams are locked the belt is ready to be removed. use a 7/32 Allen wrench, there is a spot for it in the tensioner (idler is to the front of the car right above the water pump, tensioner is closer to the alternator). Release the tension on the belt by gently pushing the Allen wrench towards the firewall. when tension is released enough slide the belt off of the cams. Be sure your cams and your crank did not move, if they moved you'll have to put them back in place. Also you might consider replacing the tensioner and Idler. place a block of wood on a jack and place under the oil pan. tighten the jack to the oil pan but do not jack the engine up. remove the 2 nuts (15mm) that hold the front engine mount together, then let the engine down enough that they separate enough that you can get the old belt out and the new belt in. once the new belt is in raise the engine and rejoing the two halves of the engine mount put the nuts back on and hit with an impct wrench. let the jack down. Ive found it easiest to route the belt over the cams next to theidler and tensioner, then to reach from underneath the car pull down on the 7/32 Allen wrench with one hand and slide the belt onto the crank gear with the other. Again once the belt is on make sure all timing marks are where the should be I lined up with E on the cams and the woodruff key on the crank pointing straight up. If all timing marks are good, reassemble everything and you will be good to go.

If your not auto savy, do not attempt to change this timing belt, take it to a dealer or a tech that is capable. Again this is an interference engine and will be easily damaged by any misalighnment of the timing marks. I've went off of memory here so hopefully I got it all.

It depends on what kind of engine you have. A single overhead cam involves lining up the TDC mark on the crankshaft with the TDC mark on the timing belt cover, then making sure the #1 mark and the arrow on the cam gear lines up with the TDC mark on the cylinder head at the same time. This will involve removing the timing belt from at least the cam gear. Once all this lines up, you will need a timing gun to precision adjust the timing by moving the distributor (assuming your vehicle has a distributor, if not its probably computer controlled) either left or right until timing is exactly where you want it. Manufacturer specs for timing are usually under the hood of the car. If you have a dual overhead cam, the process is similar, but involves lining up more marks/ gears etc.. If all else fails, go to your nearest auto parts store and buy a Chilton or Haynes manual for the car, and it will describe in detail what you will need to do. These cost around $20 and are one of the best investments you can make if you plan on keeping the vehicle. Hope this helps. -Shaun

Mass airflow sensor is dirty or needs replaced. Try that first.