Ford Probe

If you've got a voltmeter, i'd first make sure the motor is getting power when the switch is activated. Then i'd make sure the ground wire circuit isn't broken. But any way you look at it, you should isolate the problem to the motor before just replacing it. Best of luck.

I don't know the direct answer. However, if you have having trouble getting gas to the pedal, replace the oil filter first. I had a 1989 probe lx automatic for 18 years. Someplace in the 200K range, it stopped driving as well. When I replaced a fuel filter that I had replaced only 15K before that, the problem was fixed. It hadn't been able to get gas to a point that it barely drove. The filters are supposed to last 40K, but apparently something got into this one early on. There is no way I know of to check the filter beyond replacing it. Replacing it was a matter of pulling off the tubes at both ends and putting on the new one. It was at the top of the motor, just under the brake fluid resevior. The hard part of getting the little tubes to come off. Once one was off, I twisted the other around until I could get it pulled off. To put back on, I used oil on the ends first.

its in the back, between the firewall and the engine. you have to get underneath the car to remove or install it. there are three bolts. 2 from one direction one from the other. the main positive wire from the battery runs to it.

The TSS is located on top of the transmission body, within four inches of where the trans mates to the engine. It is a small plastic cap, black with 2 wires.

A power probe is used for circuit testing in the automotive industry. Very detailed instructions on how to properly use a power probe can be found on YouTube and through the guidance of trained professionals.

Yes the computer still needs to know the amount of air coming into the engine.

driver side fron kick panel

Actually there are 2 different tensioners used.

On the 4 cylinders engine there is a spring hooked up to the tensioner bearing plate. If that one breaks you will have to replace the belt and also check the engine for faults since the 4 cylinder engine is an interference engine eg. the valves can (95% of the times) hit the pistons and bend.

Location: Top of engine in the middle of the two cam sprocket wheels.

On the 5 cylinder engine there is an hydraulic tension piston that pushes on a notch on the tensioner bearing plate.

It can be pressed back into place if one takes it off from the engine (2 bolts) and place it in an vice and gently and slowly presses the piston back in until you can push a tiny allen key through the hole and lock it in position.

If there is no resistance in the push rod and you can push it back with your hands you will have to get an replacement.

You can how ever reuse the timing belt if it looks in good shape (best is always to buy a new belt) if needed in an emergency.

The 6 cylinder engine is also a non interference engine which means that the pistons and the valves don't collide.

Location: Low to the back of the short side on the engine.

start by taking of the steering wheel. keep going towards the gauge cluster. it will all come off like nothking all screws

1990-92 Ford Probe Stereo Wiring

Constant 12V+ Blue/Red

Switched 12V+ Blue/White

Ground Chassis

Illumination Light Green/Black

Dimmer n/a

Antenna Trigger White

Speakers

Front Speakers

Left Front (+) Blue/Orange

Left Front (-) Blue/Black

Right Front (+) Blue

Right Front (-) Blue/Green

Rear Speakers

Left Rear (+) Green/Orange

Left Rear (-) Green/Red

Right Rear (+) Green/Blue

Right Rear (-) Green

There is a bleeder valve on the front of the clutch slave cylinder right next to the line running in. You pump the clutch a little and then you hold it to the floor while someone opens the valve and it spits the fluid out then you close it and repeat until it has no air in it and the clutch is tight. If it is for the brakes the bleeder valves are on all the brakes and you do it the same way with all four starting with the brake farthest from the brake master cylinder and work your way closest to the master cylinder. That is how you do it.

Pry upon the tensioner to take the tensionoff of the belt and remove it then reinstall the new one using the schematic on thefan shroud, If there is none there draw one before removing the old one.

First mark the #1 cylinder position. Then mark exact position of rotor on distributor. Pull distributor out. Reach down with long screwdriver to oil pump shaft turn backwards about 6 degrees then you can drop the distributor back in. Making sure rotor aligns with the exact mark as taken out. Coutesy of the Garag Guru Consultant.

For a four cylinder 2.0 it is 1342 for the 6 banger it is 123456 hope this helps

ok i have a 1994 ford probe 2.0, it should be the same, the alternator is behide the engine, i did it with just normal tools and didnt have to remove the cross member or half shaft, what i did is

1 remove negative terminal

2 jack the car up as far as you can

3 i unloosend the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth a little then went under and loosend the mounting bolt as much as i could

4 then i went back to the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth and took it out completely (pain in the butt bc u can only move the wrench 1/2 a turn a time, use extensions if u have)

5 remove the mounting bolts completely

6 then with the bolts out i used a hammer to remove it from the mount under neath

7 now with it free i took off the wires (thee is a nut holding the negative on pop the black cap with a flat head and remove it.

8 then i removed the mounting bracket (3 bolts)

9 then here comes the fun, i took the old alternator out by the half shaft i used a hammer and cow bar, and twist it so the pulley is facing the other pulleys (or just how eve u can)

10 to get the new one in all i did was play with it to get it over the half shaft and a little muscle to push it up in and got it.

11 then just reinstall everything.

there is 2 other ways to do it and one is remove the half shaft and that would make life simple also u can remove the crossmember and pull it out back and down by the exost pipe

it took me 2 days to figure this out so i

the bolts are all 1/2 or 7/16

get a new alternater

what are you trying to improve???

On my 1995 Ford Explorer , 4.0L V6 , the lower rad hose goes from the

radiator and connects to the water pump

if you have a 2nd gen and its a 4 cyl then u did some real damage, if its a 6 cyl ur good, no damage at all just slap a new belt on no it also depends if u have a zero tolerince motor like in a suzzike or a intreped soon as that belt goes its done and a used motor for them is 1500 a peice and that's used from the junk yard

Yes, the oil will be pushed through the valve guides and be burned resulting in the car smoking.

Yes, year model 93 thru 97 Ford Probe

we can

Sounds to me like this might be due to your A/C cycling on and off if you have it set to defrost. It does this to dry out the air that it routes to the windshield so that it can more effectively de-fog the glass. When the A/C engages, it puts load on the engine, and thus the RPM must increase to keep it at idle.

there located in the rear hub....take of tire, remove the brake assembly and then remove the wheel hub...you will then see it behind the hub(it has a flat end and a chrome color.) removal is simple after doing all that.

Because you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the power brake booster. If you take and plug the hose that goes to your brake booster from the intake manifold the problem will go away. Be carefull, because your braking ability will also be severely compromised. This means that you may have a hard time stoping the vehicle. It is likely that you havea crack in the diaphragm in your booster. I am guesing that you also have a change in idle when you appl the brakes. If this is indeed the problem, you have to change the diaphragm or the whole booster itself.