Ford Probe

buy a new distributor cap and rotor. Unscrew the distributor cap (on the drivers side of the engine block), take note how the existing rotor is sitting, remove it, and place the new rotor in the same position. Put on the distributor cap and screw it into place... very simple job. thats how you change the rotor......he asked about the distributor....try again.

Japanese Motor that is frequently engine swapped into a Ford Probe.

i dont know but have one they are small and i have mosts part in places you would not think

love my red probe/great car

Number of possibilities... incorrect timing, bad distributor, fuel/air mixture too lean or too rich... really need more in-depth diagnosis to narrow it down. I'd recommend looking at the troubleshooting section of the Haynes or Chilton manuals.

Follow the top radiator hose down to the water outlet on the engine; it is in the water outlet.

There are a total of four Oxygen Sensors: one in each exhaust manifold near the motor, and one on either side (upstream & downstream) of the catalytic converter.

what is the spark plug gap for an 1989 ford probe lx? Thank you.

You have to take apart the instrument cluster, starting with the steering wheel and working forward.

DOT 3 like everything else...very few cars run the high performance dot 4 from the factory....do not mix the two!!! if you want to switch to dot 4 it is possible, but you will have to flush the system completely first.

if you look under the hood in the main fuse panel. you will see a green relay marked circuit relay. that's the one you are looking for.

Right side of the car, in the rear seat area, just behind the rear speaker inside the trim panel. You have to remove the interior trim from the back of the hatch moving forward. Three big pieces total. The amp is a silver box. It is mounted alongside of the keyless entry system.

The headlight motor needs to be removed, and replaced. To change the motor on the passenger side of the car you must jack-up the car, then support it with a jack. Remove the front wheel, and remove the splash guard in the wheel well to access the headlight motor. The instructions for this procedure can be found in a Haynes Repair Manual that covers the Ford Probe, Mazda 626, and Mazda MX6.

You will have to repair the problem causing the light to flash. Many auto parts stores can read the computer for the error and will often do this for free.

I have an automatic. But (usually) The Slave Cylinder is on the transmission, easily accessible and easy to replace. It's a small thing on the transmission (usually) with a rubber boot with a piston inside. Have to bleed the clutch master cylnder as well. -CE

same problem. I've researched it. alot of ppl say its the AIC valve or Idle Air Control. Hope that helps...but there 400 beans new so i'd go on eBay and get a guarenteed workin one

same problem. I've researched it. alot of ppl say its the AIC valve or Idle Air Control. Hope that helps...but there 400 beans new so i'd go on eBay and get a guarenteed workin one

Torque in steps. Tighten all bolts in sequence then do next step.

Step #1, 16 ft.lbs. (22Nm)

Step #2, +90 degree turn

Step #3, +90 degree turn

you have to take out the whole fuse box and take off the panelof the bottom of the box...it is bolted in i believe youll have to use a 10mm wrench

Most are in the fuel tank or above the tanks.

A million different reasons. But, one thing you can check that won't cost money is to check the rubber tube going from the airflow sensor to the throttle body. If it is cracked, air will be leaking, causing it to bypass the airflow meter, and making the engine die. If not, then it could be any number of things and you will have to take it to a shop and get it taken care of.

as far as i know if your looking for factory as in stock, the biggest it goes is 16 inch, if you want after market you might get away with 18 and a really small side wall. if you want bigger you will have to replace the strut towers so the base of the strut isn't in the way, its only a couple hundred to make the switch

On the front side of the transaxle, about in the middle of the side of the housing (you'll see the fill/level check plug). Fill until the lube is at the bottom of the fill hole.

your best bet would be to trade her in and get a real car

remove the wheel. support the control arm with a jack stand. remove the driveshaft/cvjoint nut (the big nut in the center). may need to have someone pressing the brake or at least losen before you jack it up and remove the tire. remove the brake caliper assemby and the rotor. remove the tie rod end from the hub/steering knuckle. remove the two nuts and bolts attaching the hub/steering knuckle to the strut/shock and the nut and bolt holding the the hub/steering knuckle to the lower ball joint. lift the hub off the lower ball joint slide the hub/steering knuckle off of the cv joint/driveshaft. there may be sensors for antilock brakes and such that need removed but it should be fairly obvious on how to remove just by looking at them. with the hub/steering knuckle out, the bearing is a sealed bearing and is pressed out of the center after removing a seal and the new one is pressed in. since i don't own a press, i would usually take it to napa autoparts or someplace that has a machine shop and have them press the new one in for me. then reassemble.

who does that? Have the transmission drained immediately Any other liquids will severely damage the transmission.

what is the size of the engin and is it a turbo??? 164HP Stock GT is 168hp A Ford Probe GT with the Multiport electronic fuel injected 2.5 litre (153 cubic inches) 24 valve DOHC V-6 has 164 SAE horsepower at 6000 RPM and 156 foot pounds of torque at 4000 RPM. The compression ratio is 9:2:1 The Multiport electronic fuel injected 2.0 litre 16 valve DOHC 4 cylinder has 115 SAE horsepower at 5500 RPM and 124 foot pounds of torque at 3500 RPM.