Ford Probe

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove steering column covers

Disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition switch

Remove the screw retaining the switch to the steering column

bad water pump bad water pump check and see if the fan works too.

under the hood on the drivers side

check that the coolant fan is turning check coolant flood check if thermostat is stuck chec water pump gotta be one of the 4

This light is for brake on/problems with the brake. Check your brake fluid level and ensure it isn't dipping below the sensor on the master brake cyllinder. I had this happen to me during winter.

just replace the engine with a 4 or 6 cylinder and your done.

Hi. i have an 89 lx with a digital dash. well that is not too hard at all! first take off the stering wheel, 2 screws on the back and so on. it will take a bit of a good pull to get the wheel off. its really hard! then there is 3 screws above the speedometer, remove them. then there is about 4 screws below the ignition accross the bottom.then the whole dash around your instroment panel comes out. (may have to adjust the steering tilt to get it off) and then you can see the whole ignition. that is all that i know about getting her out. well any other Q's email: evanwolfe@mail.com

Fuel pump/fuel filter need replacing. 1991 Ford Probe has fuel cut off switch located in trunk, if car ran over bump, hit something in road, that bounced up under car, possibly caused switch to shut off. pouring gas into engine will only work as long as you pour gas.Try resetting cut off switch to start fuel pump.

Open the trunk, above the tail light there is a black cover. Remove the cover. The tail light slides off away from the car.

sawzall or a cutting torch! ;-)

a 99 ford probe doesnt exist

20 minutes if you know what your doing. i just watched my buddy change my driver side shaft in my driveway in just under 20 minutes.

you cant repair a thrown rod...it has to be replaced...as far as how to replace it, you should be able to get some sort of manual at your local library for removal and installation procedures if not try autozone or search the internet for the repair manual. it is a bit too in depth to be described on wiki answers (^_^)

To avoid unnecessary work, get a manual from the parts store or AUTOPARTSONLINE.COM

I just changed mine and trust me it wasn't easy. To begin with you have to disassemble the powersteering pump. Then you have to take the whole front of the motor apart basically. I took off the front motor mount so I could jack the motor for easy access to the timing cover which had to be removed. Lots of things have to come off just to get to the water pump including the valve cover. Have fun doing it but it takes at least 5 hours if you are an ok mechanic.

I don't see the prob. with the change, according to my book it's the same as my 93 and it took me approx. an hour to an hour and a half...I left a rather detailed answer on the 93 question...

KRUEZ

Well I just did mine also and there is no way anyboby can do it in 1 hour or 2 for that matter. The man hrs for just the timing belt alone calls for 2.6 hrs.

TAke the trand pan off and change the filter while you are there. Refill it with about 3 quarts then check it. Don't overfil it. Dispose of old fluid correctly. Most parts houses will take it .

there should be a small pan attached to the bottom, now on the pan should be a small bolt, if not on pan look along both sides of the trany. when u find bolt remove it. it is a smart thing to change the trany filter too, remove the pan to do this.

Turning the steering wheel farthest left or right for a few seconds will cause a loud squealing.

If it's a V6, the water pump sits behind the timing belt and, frankly, in a very annoying and awkward spot. My experience was that the new water pump was $130 and the labour was about $450. The timing belt needs to be removed for access and they often recommend replacing the timing belt and water pump at the same time as it is way cheaper than doing them individually 12 months apart.

Under the kick panel right behind the firewall you'll see a panel with 3 push in buttons holding a panel on, pull that off and the computer is right there. It can be accessed from either side.

I am having the samew problem with my probe and a mchanic said it is the fuel pump sending unit. there is no fuse for it.

For the rear light assemblies there is one screw. Open the hatchback and on the inside top edge of the assembly, remove the one Philips head screw. You will also see a couple of slots next to the body. Stick a flat blade screw driver into these slots between the body and the light assembly and pry out on the assembly. It will pop out from the body.

.044 inch - according to www . motorcraft . com ( no spaces ) unless the engine compartment decal shows different

If you're saying it started that after you replaced them, then of course, you need to check all the work. Are the wires seated correctly on both ends? Were the plugs the correct ones, and properly gapped? Were they tightened to the proper torque? If you're saying the rough idle is what you were trying to fix, then at least you've probably ruled out ignition. Next, you might consider the fuel system (dirty injectors, clogged filter, Throttle Position Sensor, etc); the vacuum system (leaks from loose or deteriorated hoses, etc.); or the EGR system (stuck or leaky valve, sticky solenoid, etc.). If you're getting a service engine light, it may be time to get the codes and see what they mean.

First start by removing the elecrtical plug, then remove the coil and spark plug wires. Now losen the valve cover bolts(don't worry the gasket reseals upon reassembly) now remove the two bolts that hold the distributor against the head, now gently slide the distributor out , do not under any circumstances pry on the distributor where it bolts to the motor, the distributor casing could break(speaking from experience) to reassemble follow steps in reverse order(make sure you do not turn the motor over with the distributor out because you could screw up the timing)

in the trunk under the carpet i think on the farest left

boy oh boy! anther fine ford product ! lol I to have the same problem if it is a 2.0 and the code 0320 it is more than likely the crank poistioning sensor the problem then lies with ford there are no values for resitence for this component or much else ford wants you to take it to them for a very expense dignoss where you need a breakout box for anything and several different harnesses instead they want you to check the whole entire circut starting at the ing mod then the pcm then the E E relay and be able to prform a wave pattern also none of this should be nessacerry I have been a pro for several years and decided to move on ( have alot of certs including drivabillity) I know that the code 0320 says ignition input circut fault and thet code for a crank pos senseor is 0335 so if the code 0320 shows up it probly means the ignition mod wich I believe that will take the crank sensor out and that is why you get a 0320 code instead 0f a 035 code the distuber fails car dies smokes crank sensor before the pcm can find it.