Ford Probe

I had the same problem - was a 15amp fuse due to a dead short in a back-up light bulb. Simple but fixed my problem.

replace the engine ================== The engine would at least have to be removed, cylinder head removed, oil pan removed, and new bearings installed with rods. If you get that far, you may as well overhaul the engine with new rings, seals, bearings, valve job, resurface cylinder head etc.. Either that or yes, get another engine. Either way its a lot of work or even more money to have a shop do it. -Shaun

Yes it can but it is fairly difficult and expensive, if electric you will need to take out the full mechanism and replace the metal panel with a new one, if you can get one, best chance the states, making sure it is the right color, if not carbon fibre ones and glass ones are available but more difficult to find, bolt and screw back on re- attach the interior trim, and and check that the sun roof is a tight fit as before.

There is absolutley no reason to remove the entire mechanism..........open the roof slightly....pop the inner trim cover.......you will need to bend the cover slightly to get it out......you will see 4 nuts......undo them....go outside the car and lift the panel out...SIMPLE.

For refitting locate the 4 holes for the studs...set the roof in place...get inside the car and put the nuts on Finger tight......close the roof and let it locate itself.....then nip up the 4 nuts....check it opens correctly......if not slacken the nuts and close the roof again.....if ok tighten the nuts........replace inner trim......make sure it is fitted into the support bracket at the rear of the roof.

Its a good idea to clean in and around the sunroof area when the panel is out.

Floods first thing in the morning with a cold engine:

1 worn out spark plugs

2 plugged air filter

3 bad coil or plug wires

4 dirty injectors

5 engine coolant temperature sensor

6 worn / slacked timing belt

7 low cylinder compression

No, they are not interchangeable.

take off the headlight and the motor assembly. you cab take apart the meachanism and see a round plate that makes electrical contact. gently sand this plate to get it clean and the light should go up and down again. I did this with my 1990 probe. it's not hard.

pulse generator is bad

If you look at the drivers side. It is right behind the distributor. If you run the lower radiator hose you will see the neck with two 12mm bolts that hold it on and the thermostat is behind there.

To turbocharge a 4 cyl, non turbo probe, (assuming its an 1988-1993) you need to to a few things. First, of cource, locate an exhaust manifold, turbo and down pipe (exhaust pipe that leaves turbo) from a 1988-1993 ford probe turbo. Seeing as how the car is not stock turbo, the block does not have the oil return line tapped into the block, there is no oil supply line to the turbo either. These will have to be made. Also this IHI turbo is water cooled. Additional water hoses will have to be routed. To get filtered and pressurized oil to the turbo you need to make a modification at the oil filter. There is an adapter that is availiable, here is the link (mostly used for an oil cooler)http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2000861&productId=2000861&catalogId=10101 This is where you will get your oil to and from the turbo You will also need to tap into the heater hose system to get water to and from the turbo. Lots more to do still... Fuel management Air flow meter Well... theres a start, ill get back to this later To turbocharge a 4 cyl, non turbo probe, (assuming its an 1988-1993) you need to to a few things. First, of cource, locate an exhaust manifold, turbo and down pipe (exhaust pipe that leaves turbo) from a 1988-1993 ford probe turbo. Seeing as how the car is not stock turbo, the block does not have the oil return line tapped into the block, there is no oil supply line to the turbo either. These will have to be made. Also this IHI turbo is water cooled. Additional water hoses will have to be routed. To get filtered and pressurized oil to the turbo you need to make a modification at the oil filter. There is an adapter that is availiable, here is the link (mostly used for an oil cooler)http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2000861&productId=2000861&catalogId=10101 This is where you will get your oil to and from the turbo You will also need to tap into the heater hose system to get water to and from the turbo. Lots more to do still... Fuel management Air flow meter Well... theres a start, ill get back to this later To turbocharge a 4 cyl, non turbo probe, (assuming its an 1988-1993) you need to to a few things. First, of cource, locate an exhaust manifold, turbo and down pipe (exhaust pipe that leaves turbo) from a 1988-1993 ford probe turbo. Seeing as how the car is not stock turbo, the block does not have the oil return line tapped into the block, there is no oil supply line to the turbo either. These will have to be made. Also this IHI turbo is water cooled. Additional water hoses will have to be routed. To get filtered and pressurized oil to the turbo you need to make a modification at the oil filter. There is an adapter that is available here is the link (mostly used for an oil cooler)http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2000861&productId=2000861&catalogId=10101 This is where you will get your oil to and from the turbo You will also need to tap into the heater hose system to get water to and from the turbo. Lots more to do still... Fuel management Air flow meter Well... there's a start, ill get back to this later To turbocharge a 4 cyl, non turbo probe, (assuming its an 1988-1993) you need to to a few things. First, of cource, locate an exhaust manifold, turbo and down pipe (exhaust pipe that leaves turbo) from a 1988-1993 ford probe turbo. Seeing as how the car is not stock turbo, the block does not have the oil return line tapped into the block, there is no oil supply line to the turbo either. These will have to be made. Also this IHI turbo is water cooled. Additional water hoses will have to be routed. To get filtered and pressurized oil to the turbo you need to make a modification at the oil filter. There is an adapter that is available here is the link (mostly used for an oil cooler)http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2000861&productId=2000861&catalogId=10101 This is where you will get your oil to and from the turbo You will also need to tap into the heater hose system to get water to and from the turbo. Lots more to do still... Fuel management Air flow meter Well... there's a start, ill get back to this later

hi! i had the same problem on my '94 SE and it was caused by the distributor.

it will be at the oil filter probably a 3 wire plug if not on the filter boss beside under or over it but very near filter

check the fuel pump shut off switch in the trunk on the driver side under the carpet, its a button just push it.

Jack the car up in the rear and pull off the passenger side rear wheel. you will be able to see the slider that the alternator is mounted on. remove that bolt and clawl under the car to remove the top bolt from the alternator. the reason for this is that the alternator has to come out of the bottom of the car. you will want to be under the car to catch the alternator when it come loose. repeat steps in reverse to put alternator back on. use a bar to put tention on the alternator to get the proper tention on the belt.

D O T ( 3 ) brake fluid

I had this problem what you need to do is remove the half shaft to get this out because there is no room to get it past this point. Sorry for the bad news.

its a Mazda engine . ( DOHC 4cyl. 16 valve 2.0l ) For the probe 1993

If it is a 4 cylinder it is on the back of the motor by the firewall.

IVE GONE 147 MILES PER HOUR

I have a 95 ford probe gt, when I removed the stock muffler, catalytic converter, replaced my air filter box with a cold air intake I increased my horse power decently. I topped my probe gt at 151. . . It was nice.

1) disconnect neg battery cable

2) remove air cleaner assembly ( it just makes it easier to get to)

3) relieve fuel system pressure

4) remove clips and detach hoses

5. installation is just the reverse

There are two Bolts on the transmission itself theres a giant bolt on the bottom for removing the transmission fluid and a bolt of the same size on the side.. if possible lift the car but keep it level then take out the bolt on the side of the transmission then stick your CLEAN finger in if you feel fluid up to the bolt hole level then you have the right amount if its low pour fluid in until it begins to pour back out the bolt hole ( pretty hard to do ive swapped 2 transmissions on my old probe and had to find many awkward ways to do this )

yes its possible but its alot of work. when the car goes down the assembly line it is made with spaces for everything auto and everything standard, with the acception to a couple holes here and there, but your better off to just buy one thtats standard and drive it but if you really want to put in the work you would need a donor car, same year same model but standard and you will have to take out every component that makes it a manual and put it in to your car

Ok well the ford probe discontinued production in 1997. On all Ford Probe models the fuel pump is located in the gas tank. So to service and or replace it you have to drop the gas tank. Not fun

No difference in the engines, just in the ECU (Engine Control Unit) programming. OBD2 doesn't let you have the diagnostic codes without a code reader.

You should see a two-wire connector just to the right and underneath the coolant cap on the passenger side of the engine. That is the coolant temperature sensor. NOTE: look for the cap on the engine, not the one on the radiator.

You add the fluid in the same place you check it. Where that is, your owners manual will describe. Down below, behind the air filter. Little dipstick with black rubber handle. Need a funnel to fill. -CE