Ford Thunderbird

Not much in the LX version. The 3.8 Liter V6 in the LX model had 140 HP and 215 lb/ft of torque. The 3.8 Liter in the Super Coupe model had 230 HP and 330 lb/ft of torque.

Open the hood. Remove at least the right (left looking from bumper) windshield wiper while in parked position. Then remove plastic clips that hold plastic cowl cover in place. The plastic clips are removed by pressing down on the center with a pointed object like the edge of a screw driver. This detents the locking part of the clip and allows its removal. The filter is on the left rear side when looking from the front to the back of the engine compartment. Lift up on the plastic cowl on the left hand side and you will have access to the filter. To see pictures of this, go to: http://www.jaguarforums.com/m_9335/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm since the S type front clip is nearly the same as the Thunderbird. The filter has two clips, one on the left front side and one on the right side. Release clips (look at the new filter to see how they work), pull out and then replace with new filter. Reinstall cowl, wiper and then the clips. The clips are reset for use by pushing the locking pin back up above the top surface, and then pushing back down to flush after installed. Make sure the cowl rubber lips fit under the window as they did originally.

This information can be found in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer or salvage yard is a source. This is quoted out of the Owners Guide for an '88 Turbo Coupe "In addition to unlocking by using the code appearing on your owner's code card or the warranty card, you may also program in a second code of your choice. To program this second code, you first have to enter the code from your code card. Then, within five seconds, press the 1/2 button. Then, within five seconds of each other, press five buttons in any sequence you desire. This button sequence is retained by the system as the second code. To erase this second code, simply enter the warranty card code, press the button 1/2, and wait six seconds." If you do not know the factory code (assuming the door is still factory): "A record of the permanent computer code for the keyless entry system can be found in four places: ~A sticker with the printed number code is taped to the exterior of the computer module located in the trunk. ~A second sticker with the code is taped on the lower left corner on the front of the Owner Warranty Card. This card is located inside the glove box. ~A third sticker is located on the inside of the trunk lid. ~A fourth sticker appears on a pocket-size code reminder card that will be found in the glove compartment." Hope that is a little more helpful than the last answer.

C-6 transmission has not been used for several years, since early 80's. What you have is an overdrive transmission 4R70W that is electronically controlled.

It has a " service engine soon " warning light that illuminates when the engines emission control system requires service and for a few seconds when the ignition key is in the run position before starting the engine . It is located directly below the " door ajar " warning light , just to the left of the fuel gauge

The cruise-o-matic was filled with type F fluid. Mercon v can be substituted if type F can not be found.

On the rear of the engine bay. On the panel that covers the wiper motors on the passenger side

Try changing the O2 sensor located on the transmission, sometimes if it is going out it will kill the vehicle like this.

Also try changing the fuel filter, it may be very dirty and plugged up.

Time 2 get a new car

It is in the trunk Left side behind the panel.

from haynes manual

start from middle set 3rd from front bolts 1 2 go to next set to rear rear bolt 3 4 go to next to front set bolt 5-6 then at last set at rear 7-8 then front 2 bolts 9-10

bolt torque seqence in ft lbs

step 1 -37 ftlbs /// step2- 45 /// step3 -52 /// step 4 -59 /// step 5 loosen bolts 2-3 turns go to step 6 sc model step 6 -48-55 ftlbs //step 7rotate additional 90 to 110 degrees

i think it is under the shifter counsel

well there is a fuse for it in the fuse panel but ther are usually as many as 3 hot wires for the radio.one for power,and one for memory for sure.sometimes they use a separate wire for illumination.you realy need to get a wiring schematic for it. sometimes you can find them in the haynes manuals available at auto zone.if the radio does not work at all and the fuse is not blown, then just replace the radio itself. the radio is usually the problem rather than the wiring. if you have a 12 volt tester the hot wires are usually easy to find .just remove the radio from the dash, conect the negative lead to a good ground, set the meter to 12 v dc , unplug the harness from the radio, and go from wire to wire with your positive lead until you find a wire reading 12 volts with the key in the off possition.the hot wire you find will be the memory. to find the main power wire do the same with the key in the on possition and the wire that becomes hot with the key on will be your main power.if the fuse is not blown, and you still don't find power, than you have a bad harness, wich is pretty rare. you will probably have to have a owners manual to find out where the fuse is in the fuse panel because i found most fords don't mark the fuses on the panel itself.i believe it will be a 20 or 25 amp fuse.hope i help.

if they are disk brakes in the rear and the plunger is smooth or is concaved then you should just be able to push them back in, if there is a slot or a cross in the plunger try turning it like you would a screw and they should go in other than that i dont know

In addition to the above answer, as I found out on my '88. If you have to twist the piston into the caliper, there is a tool that resembles a cube with little bumps on it that works with a 3/8" ratchet availiable at a parts house, I paid about $12 for mine.

Actually I rented the tool at autozone, complete refund with no purchase. It turns and compresses the cylinder at the same time.

Use caution the piston has a worm thread in it, this is how the parking brake works. Never use a c-clamp to compress the piston in on this type of caliper. As stated above use the tool to twist the piston inward. If you strip the the threads you will have premature brake pad wear. To pre load the piston's back when the calipers are back on engage the parking brake 20 times this will push the pistons out so when you step on the brake the pedal does not go to the floor.

my first quess is that when the glass is dry, the friction caused by the dry glass and the blade actually slows the blade down enough so that it doesn't skip, skip, skip. kinda like bouncing from one spot to another. when your windshield is wet; however, the friction is less and the wiper motor makes the blade move faster. if the tension on the blade is too high, the blade will stick, release, stick, release, etc. thus causing a "Squeak" or sputter. May want to try loosening up the tension spring just a hair, then spray your sheld with the hose and try it until the blades work just right. You may also just need new blades. should be about $40 for a good complete set.

96 is when obd 2 started but most manuf. had early version. the plug usually determined between 1 and 2. in extremely rare cases. gm. they might have a 2 conncector but 1 codes. just try both 1 and 2 with your scanner. you must have a scanner!!! There are no "correct" codes for Control modules.. unless you count the "1..1" {system pass} for the EEC-IV. Codes indicate a fault or error observed, either in real time or in running history. All TBird 4.6L (94 up) and 96-97 3.8L are EEC-V OBD-II, the others are all EEC-IV. There are actually two sets of codes relating to OBD-II, Standard/generic and MFR specific. here's a Ford -specific list: http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-vobd2.shtml Note this list: http://www.obdii.com/codes.html Ford is Mfr "1" thus you would put a 1 in the first digit spot but the meaning is a little less specific in some areas. I assume you already know you dont actually NEED a scanner, though they are a good idea if you do your own maintenance... Autozone and several other parts stores will read the codes out for free. Insist, however, on getting the actual code and not just their definition of the code.

You have to have a puller that fits on the groove just behind the front edge of the pulley.

two easy answers are: 1. the coolant isn't at its' proper mixture (ie. too much water, or not enough coolant) 2. your radiator has gotten too plugged up to allow the coolant to pass slowly enough through to cool the engine, the coolant is being force through 10 ports fast instead of 50 ports slowly.

You have a leaking injector that is washing its way past the rings. I am assuming that you mean, "why does the oil smell like gas?" In addition to the above answer, if you have a mis-fire or rough running condition that fuel isn't being burned efficiently as well as a recent no-start condition. NO GAS IS SHOOTING OUT OF THE DIPSTICK!!!

Purchase Dextron III by the qrart. Check automatic transmission fluid on flat ground with the engine at normal operating temp. With the engine at idle hold the brake and cycle the range selector (shifter) through all the different ranges: P, R, N, D, L2, L1, and then back to Park. This will circulate fluid to all the componets within the trans giving a more accurate reading at the dipstick of whats in the pan. Do this everytime you check the transmission fluid. With the engine at idle, and warmed up, pull the dipstick, located by the firewall, back of the engine, on the passenger side of the car. Wipe it with a clean rag and insert it back into the dipstick tube. Now look at it again. The fluid should be within the cross hatched marks on the stick. Notice it does have a mark for low fluid, but! It is measured in "PINT!", not quarts! Do not overfill the trans! This can cause air bubbles to froth the fluid and cause problems. Notice too, that most dipsticks say right on them what range you should have the car in, and at what temp.. You'll need the right size funnel to add fluid, at the dipstick tube. And add the fluid carefully, again do not overfill. When you add fluid, and then check the dipstick, you'll notice that, because you add fluid at the dipsick tube there's fluid coated on the tube, and it gets all over the dipstick empairing an accurate reading. So if that's the case wait, until all the fluid drains down into the trans before you close up shop. Your fluid in your T-bird shoud be the same color that it is in the quart bottle. Not brown or black or metallic looking. Service your transmission about every 24,000 miles, or every two years, whatever occurs first. c-ya grade a da mopar man! I believe the Thunderbirds had a big problem with the fluid overheating, and the transmission developing a bad shudder, I think a aftermarket cooler would prevent headaches in the future, ask around.

The 1997 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L engine was reported to have 205 HP.

duct tape

Good car.