Ford Trucks and SUVs

Well, honey, in 1979, the Ford F-250 did not come equipped with a catalytic converter. Those babies didn't start becoming mandatory until the early 80s when people started caring about emissions. So, if you're looking for one on a '79 F-250, you're fresh out of luck.

Honey, the 1992 Ford F-150 was living in the Stone Age when it comes to safety features. Airbags weren't required in vehicles until 1998, so you won't find any in that old beast. If you're looking for a cushion of air to protect you, you might want to consider a time machine instead.

Well, honey, the lug pattern on a 2005 Ford F150 is 6x135. So, if you're looking to upgrade those wheels, make sure you're getting the right fit. And remember, it's not just about looks - safety first, darling.

If there is no spark on a 1996 Ford F-150 5.8L engine, it could be due to a faulty ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, ignition control module, or crankshaft position sensor. Start by checking the ignition coil for any signs of damage or wear. Next, inspect the distributor cap and rotor for cracks or carbon tracking. Ensure the ignition control module is receiving power and functioning properly. Lastly, test the crankshaft position sensor for proper operation. If any of these components are faulty, they may need to be replaced to restore spark to the engine.

Oxygen Sensor There are actually (4) O2 sensors on your truck. If you look inside the wheel wells behind the fender liner, right about where the frame is one O2 sensor, the other is underneath the truck about half way back in relation to the transmission. If you see where the exhaust joints together, you went about 6" too far.

When you start looking at the O2 sensors, they are normally numbered something like "Bank 1 Sensor 1" Bank 1 is on the passenger side; Bank 2 is on the driver's side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (near the frame, between the block and the cat) and Sensor 2 is near the Y-pipe (downstream of the cat).

Normally it is the upstream sensors (sensor 1) that go first. They see the harshest conditions. You will need; Oxygen Sensor Socket Anti-Seized Penetrating Oil Sometimes it will take 15 minutes or take a few hours it depends on your luck…

A rough idle in a 1977 Ford 400 could be caused by issues such as dirty fuel injectors, a clogged air filter, spark plug problems, vacuum leaks, or a malfunctioning idle control valve. It's also worth checking the ignition system and fuel delivery system for any faults.

There could be a few reasons why the voltmeter, oil, and water temp gauges are not working on your 1988 Ford truck. It could be due to a faulty gauge cluster, a blown fuse, a broken sensor, or wiring issues. I recommend checking these components to identify the source of the problem.

Ford sells over 1 million trucks each year.

You can't repair the door and you will have a problem repairing your relationship. You should not have let her get your goat and make you lose your temper anyway. Who is in control here? First of all you should take the door down and just get a new one.

Starter = Removal & Installation = 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. Remove the starter terminal cover. 4. Remove the terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor. 5. Disconnect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid. Ø To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid (S) terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and (S) terminal. 6. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts. 7. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle. To Install: 8. Place the starter motor in position and install the starter motor retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 9. Install the battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm). 10. Connect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid. 11. Install the starter solenoid safety cap. If equipped. 12. Lower the vehicle. 13. Connect the negative battery cable. 14. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation.

You do not have to do all four unless you think you need to. Although, I wouldn't do three, only two, four, or one.

That depends on what year. I have a 1994 GCL with a cassette only. I've been using a cassette adapter to my MP3 player. The only problem is that the cassette deck has a short (I think). Anyway, on a 1994 JGCL, remove the console face plate (only four little screws) surrounding the radio. After that it's pretty easy. Just remove the screws surrounding the radio, and pull it out. Now, finding a non-DaimlerChrysler radio to fit in the spot...that's another question.

additional info: Check with Crutchfield.com for tons of great information concerning car audio. I've used them several times and they sell good equipment at a fair price and whats even better is that they send factory wiring harness kits so your new installation is pretty close to plug and play. Their support line is better than you can believe and they can tell you almost anything about any difficulty you might be experiencing. I'll go to the grave singing praises about this company.....lol, and I don't even work for em !!!

I pulled an AMFM Radio with Casette & CD out of a 1998 JGC at a junkyard and it fits just fine in my 1994 JGC. The bennefit is that it has the original green back lighting to match the rest of my instrument dash panel. Also it is plug and play.

They are screwed into the exaust system at various points. Some people say that there are 4 oxygen sensors, but technically, that is not correct. Only the front 2 are considered oxygen sensors. They are screwed into the exaust pipe, one on each bank, after the exaust manifold, but before the catalytic converter. Sometimes they are screwed directly into the exaust manfold itself. The other 2 are actually called catalyst moniters. They are oxygen sensors, but they serve a different purpose. They moniter the activities of the catalytic converters, thus the name, catalyst moniters. They are screwed into the exaust one on each bank,after, or downstream, of the catalytic converters. A 7/8ths inch wrench is the size needed to turn the O2 sensors. They just unscrew out normally. The connectors on the front O2's will be a challenge. They are way up behind the engine in a really stupid place to get access and unplug/plug in.

There is a clip that holds it on and very hard to get to unless you know what you are doing.

Prior to do any work on your 1967 Ford Mustang, you must disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery. Next, remove the two screws and lower the parking break and air control. In order to remove the control knob and shaft assembly, place the know in the full ON position. You will now be able to press the knob release buttom on the switch assembly.

under hood right side,follow the pos.batt.cable to it ____________________________________________ Starter Relay Test Place transmission in Park. Apply parking brake. Check for battery voltage between starter relay battery terminal and ground. Connect jumper wire on starter relay between battery and ignition terminals. If engine does not crank, connect a second jumper wire to starter relay between ground terminal and good ground and repeat test. If engine cranks in step 3, transmission linkage is misadjusted or neutral safety switch is defective. If engine does not crank in step 3, starter relay is defective.

right on top of the tank its the small black wire

remove the four face plate screws and remove the face plate. Then slide the special removal tools in each side of the radio and it will slide right out, or if you are like me and don't have the special tools, bust it up and take it out in pieces AAAGGGGGGGGG Thats what i did was destroy that stock radio and rip it out like the Mayans used to do with hearts... it was AWESOME!!

Make sure the ground wire to the sending unit is clean and connected and test the power line to make sure it has continuity. These are very simple tests. If they are ok, replace the sending unit.

The Explorer could have a stuck open thermostat. The thermostat needs to close until the engine gets up to operating temperature to make the system heat properly.

See the table at link below.

The 2013 Ford F-450-Super-DUTY's engine produces 400 hp @ 2800 rpm.

this has baffled us mechs. for years! it seems that only ford has this problem. the ONLY fix is to have new tie rod ends installed. insist on the new neopreen type. they don't squeek. this has been the only I have EVER been able to stop it. ford put out a "t.s.b" on this problem and it is there only suggestion for stoping this noise.