Geo Metro

from inside the trunk you can dislodge the tailight lenses.... the rest is simple

If the blower motor is not running on either heat or cool, then the motor may be bad. Also the blower motor has a fuse. Another possibility is a defective blower motor resistor pack. Are you sure the compressor is not working and not just the blower motor? "Wirewilly" Here I repeat Fuses have been checked both under the drver side dash and left side under engine hood. Four prong relays how do you resistance check those? Yes the blower and compressor are not receiving voltage! When i first discovered the problem I thought bad blower motor so i tap on the motor like many no good GM electric recent 12 volt motors too see if it would free up, then took a voltage reading its dead no incoming volts for the blower or the compressor causing it not engage!So it should be a related electronic controling device for both A/C and heater! The best way to check a 4 prong fuse is to just substitute a known good one. I would suspect your blower motor problem is the resistor pack, although the switch itself could also be bad. A bad switch would account for no voltage at the compressor. See if you have voltage going to the resistor pack. If so the pack is bad. Good luck.

You will need to remove the axle nut and a pickle fork to separate the ball joints. I think you have to unbolt the strut and swing the assy out of the way. Then you can unbold the axle and replace it. There are probably some minor details I've forgotten as its been a while.

Most are held on with a c shaped clip. Push in on the door panel & look under the base. Pushing on the ends simultaneously will cause it to go flying.

It should be located in your fuse box. Most likely the fuse box is under the drivers side dash on the left side or down on the drivers side kick panel. When you remove the cover, it should be labeled as to which fuse is for which component.

by pressing the lock button , and the volume down volume button at thr same time .

The starter on a 93 Geo Metro is located on the back side or firewall side of the engine. The battery will need to be disconnected and the cables removed from the solenoid and then the two bolts holding the starter to the engine can be removed. When installing the starter make the battery connection the last thing you do.

There are a lot of reasons why an engine might not start. You may need to be a bit more specific in your question. I also don't know your technical expertise level. But here are some obvious places to start:

1. Does it have gas? (Check the gauge, listen for the fuel pump etc. check the fuel pump fuse.)

2. Is the engine mechanically sound? (Check compression, open the oil cap or remove the distributor cap and see if the camshaft is going up and down etc.)

3. Check the engine service light. If it is on find out what the computer thinks is wrong and fix it.

4. Check to see if the ignition system is working. BTW don't just pull a spark plug wire. This can wreck the electronics. I would pull a spark plug and make sure it is properly grounded before checking for spark.

If none of these tests help chances are there is something more seriously wrong with your engine, and you may need to get a mechanic to check it.

If the crank shaft is in the engine and if the engine is in the car I would put the car up on jack stands ( for safety). Remove the water pump pulley. That will allow you to remove the v-belt easily. Remove the plastic mud shield on the passenger side of the engine. Then remove the crankshaft pulley ( it is probably already off and you are working on the woodruff key that was indexing the crank pully). Make sure that you rotate the engine such that the key is pointing down. Be sure that you stuff a rag in around the snout of the crankshaft such that when the key breaks out of the keyway it cannot fall into the oil pan. The way I have gotten stubborn keys out of keyways was to go after them with a small hammer and punch. I try to worm the punch under the key which will lift the end of the key and make it easier to grasp and remove. Frankly I have never failed to get a key out of a keyway. Generally they are only a slight interference fit.

hold the "rcl" button in and use the "seek" button for hours and the "scan" button for minutes

Yes

take the hrottel body off and clean it real good.take it all the way a part. you can get the gasket kits from any parts store. change your spark plugs als. you can get the good plugs at wall-mart. the bosh platunim is what you wont.if you have futher auto quetion hit me up at everettedmonson@yahoo.com.hope this helps you out.

There are some rare LSI convertable models that have a tach. That cluster will go straight into the base model Metro 89-94. All of the connectors were already in place so all I had to do was simply connect them.

the fuel press regulator is a non adjustable component in the front of the throttle body. it will normally not fail in less than 200,000 miles. If it is suspect in a no start condition, I would examine a consistent fuel press with a pressure tester setup. If you turn the key on and hear the pump in the tank buzz up, then you know the pump works. fuel press is initially quite high (25-40psi). A fuel filter failure will normally not cause a no-start. pressure will leak by and allow it to start. It just won't run well under hi load conditions. A no start condition is very likely a fuel injector failure. I've had 2 fuel injector failures. took me a week of trial and error to finalize the diagnosis. the first replacement was from a junkyard and it lasted 7 months. The sympton was that it allowed me to start and run but would quit during use and strand me on the side of road. Later (couple hours) it would start and might run for days or minutes but again would fail while driving. Intermittent problems are toughest to solve. Each time I replaced something it would start right up and I'm like "great, problem solved". Then 2 days later, bam, I'm stranded again.

O2S problem

Disconnect the distributor cap end of the coil wire and attach to an ignition tester. Attach the ignition tester to a good ground, away from any fuel lines. A good spark tester can be made from an old spark plug gapped to 0.200". Crank the engine and observe the tester for spark. If a crisp blue spark is noticed, the ignition coil is working properly. If a pale yellow spark, or no spark, is noticed, the coil is more than likely bad.

your balancer is bad. balancers are in two peices pressed together by a thin layer of rubber in between the two .

Low pressure line\

Larger hose from the compressor

The XFI metro has 49 horses

the base metro 3 cyl has 55 horses

a 1.3 4 cyl metro has 70 horses.

Most auto parts stores have inductive input tachometers (one side snaps over a spark plug wire, the other to chasis ground) that do a pretty good job for routine tune-up work. Your idle speed will depend upon the type of transmission, emissions system requirements, etc. The idle speed should be listed on a sticker on the underside of the hood of your vehicle.

Make a folcrum or use a "C" clamp: take a 1" piece of copper pipe 4" long, cut 2 slots (1/2" wide 180 degrees from each other)on one end.

i would first check @ inlet line to carb, loosen this & have someone turn the engine over to see if there is a sufficient amount of gas to this point, if so then the probable cause would be the injector. if no gas to inlet line to carb, first check the fuel filter located somewhere

near the fuel tank, this will be a lg round type filter, if filter isnt plugged or

dirty, then the fuel pump probably is bad P.S. THE INJECTOR IS LOCATED IN CENTER OF CARB UNDER A COVER, THERE WILL BE 2 WIRES COMING OUT FROM THIS. P.S.S THIS IS FROM EXPERIENCE, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM I KNOW THAT THE 3 & 4 CYL INJECTORS ARE THE SAME BECAUSE I USED ONE FROM A 3CYL ON MY 4CYL, {THE NUMBERS ON THE INJECTORS WERE THE SAME}

This is ussually located on back side of the motor facing the firewall, and closer to the intake than the bottom of motor. Also, you should have some type of vaccumm line running to it as well. Follow your vacuum lines to that side of motor.

there is an arrow on the dist cap indicating the direction of rotation.