Geo Storm

Blinker box is located directly above the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side. It is a square module accessible once the kick panel is removed. Very easy.

fuses are in the drivers side kick panel....relays are located under the hood

It changes the shift points in the transmission for best fuel economy.

there is a connector under the dash on the passenger side

plug the wire in on the driver side of the car and 4 bults in it

You don't REPAIR a head gasket. You replace it. This is a fairly complicated task and unless you have some mechanical experience, I suggest you have a qualified person do the job. One job that the part costs only a few dollars. Look at a repair manual. It will give you a idea of the scope of the job.

Not all crankshaft pulley bolts are left hand thread. In my experience if it is a left hand thread the bolt head normally has an L stamped on it to notify the direction of thread

manual transmiissions theres a fill plug on the drivers side take the wheel off and youll see it next to the cvjoint

Isuzu engines commonly exhibit erratic idle problems

The engine revving and dropping in rpms, sometimes dropping almost to the point of dying. There are several things that can cause this problem:Leaks in the vacuum hoses or aged, cracked hoses can let in air that is not being metered by the ECU's sensors.Leaking or sticking EGR Bypass valve may be allowing exhaust gasses into the intake when the engine is not under load (idling). Loose electrical connections in the engine sensors can cause problems.On G200, 4ZC1, and 4ZD1 Engines: The Idle Control Valve / Idle Solenoid may not be functioning properly.On 4XC1, 4XE1, and 4XF1 Engines: These engines are notorious for idle speed revving and dropping. Thus far, no single simple answer has been successful in all situations has been offered.Before you do anything at all, check the ignition timing and reset it to factory specifications (9-11 degrees). Incorrectly adjusted ignition timing (too far advanced timing), will cause havoc within the ECU and the engine will not idle correctly.After this, the first step would be to carefully remove the IAC control valve and clean it with carburetor cleaner, xylene, or some other solvent and a tooth brush.Also clean the passages in the throttle body, and then reinstall the IAC valve, making sure to reinstall the O ring also. This may resolve the problem in some very mild cases.Check the throttle cable adjustment. If the throttle cable is adjusted too tight, the throttle position sensor will not read that the throttle is closed at idle, and this will cause the computer to fight to lower the idle speed. Make sure there is some slack in the line and that the throttle arm easily and consistently rests against the throttle adjustment screw whenever there is no pressure on the pedal. If it does not, then examine, repair, or replace the throttle cable and gas pedal if anything is found in either of these assemblies to show the cable or pedal is sticking.

If this does not help, things get much more complicated. These engines are set up with a learning mode and the computer controls all functions, including idle speed, based on the signals from the sensors. If one sensor begins to malfunction but does not go totally dead, the computer will continually try to adjust, causing all sorts of symptoms, and even running the trouble codes will not help, because it will show nothing unless the sensor is dead.The best and easiest solution is to have a service department use a scan tool to determine the problem. Anything else would be a futile effort to guess and get lucky on what the problem is and pray that you don't waste hundreds of dollars replacing sensors that are not defective.The throttle position sensor on these vehicles can not be adjusted. This does not mean that the sensor can not be twisted on its mounting bolts so that the baseline voltage reading is different, it means that the baseline voltage reading is meaningless, and the computer takes whatever the lowest voltage reading sensed to be 0%, no matter what that voltage may be. Using the scan tool and observing the physical position of the throttle linkage at the throttle body, observe that the percentage reading does not always return to 0 though the linkage has physically returned to its fully closed position. This appears to be a voltage variance in the sensor signal from the ECU. The voltage sent to the sensor from the ECU increases above idle speed above the 5 volts specified, and though the linkage and sensor return to the fully closed position, the increased voltage in the sensor signal causes an increas3 in the voltage returned by the sensor, so the ECU does not believe the throttle plate is fully closed, and tries to continually adjust the ignition timing and fuel injectors to for a condition it can't determine is idle or above idle.

If you insist upon this hunt-and pray method, your possibilities are: coolant temperature sensor, mass air pressure sensor, intake air temperature sensor (thermistor), oxygen sensor (exhaust), etc. You should disconnect the battery for several minutes after making any changes to clear the learning portion of the computer memory, this way, if you are lucky enough to guess which sensor is bad and replace it, the computer will not continue to try to compensate for the bad sensor that it sensed before.If you decide to take the vehicle to a service department to have it scanned, make sure that they have and can operate a Delco Tech I tool and have the software to service your vehicle. Know that these Delco computers (ECU or CPU as they may call it) are flash programmed. They do not have a static programmed prom chip, and rather are "flash programmed" by loading with the software from the Tech I while the computer is installed in the car. They do have learning modes, do have a memory, and are programmable. You will find that many dealer service departments have little or no experience working on anything other than trucks and sport utility vehicles. They may have no experience in dealing with the Delco based computer controls on these vehicles, and may even make claims that these computers are not programmable, etc. Make sure that you quiz the people who you intend to have service your vehicle. If they are not familiar with the Delco based computers, claim anything other than that they are fully programmable and flash programmed using a Tech I, or indicate that they lack the hardware and software to service your vehicle, do yourself a favor and take your vehicle somewhere else to someone who has at least the slightest idea of what they are doing.Also note, that there have been numerous recalls on the Delco ECUs used in the Isuzu and Storm models which are listed at the website. Specifically, all 1991 Isuzu cars have a standing recall # 9101001 under General Recalls for a ECM replacement campaign, and all 1990-91 Geo Storms have a standing recall # 91C066E under Emissions Recalls for ECM replacement because of emissions non-compliance. It appears that the computers should be recalled, and that a recall was issued by Isuzu, but that this recall is no longer being honored by the company. If this is the case with your vehicle, changing all the sensors will have no effect, and only by replacing the ECU will you ever solve the problem.

Lastly, to improve drivability without fixing the problem so that you can use the car despite its idle problem, if you find that the vehicle is revving and dropping and trying to die, you may wish to try one of the following temporary cures:If you live in a climate with little temperature variation and it is always 70 degrees Fahrenheit or above, you may wish to start the engine, allow it to warm up, wait for the engine to idle at a normal speed, and then simply un plug the IAC solenoid. This disables the IAC solenoid and the computer will not be able to continually try to correct for whatever problem it has that is serious enough to warrant correction, but not serious enough to bring up a trouble code when the codes are run. Disconnecting the IAC solenoid will, however, make it almost impossible to use the air conditioning, as the IAC solenoid usually adjusts the idle speed up to compensate for the increased drag of the compressor. Disabling the IAC solenoid eliminates this, and the engine will die if you turn on the air conditioning. This will also happen if the temperature drops enough, and engine warm up will become difficult. Adjusting the throttle plate stop on the throttle body is the second possible action, which works much better if you are in a climate where the temperature is not steady and cooler whether is normal. Note that the throttle stop is set at the factory, there are no instructions to return the throttle stop to its original position, and if you have the vehicle serviced by a dealership service department, their instructions are to replace your throttle body ($400.00 or more) if the adjustment screw has been tampered with. That said, you can adjust the idle screw in several threads to artificially raise the minimum idle speed. The computer will still try to compensate, but will not be allowed to let the engine speed drop low enough to kill the engine. The side effect will be that once the engine gets hot, the idle speed will hover between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM often when you pull to a stop at a stop light or stop sign. Sometimes it will work its way down after several minutes, and sometimes it will simply hover at that point. It is annoying, but much less so than having to continually restart the engine every time you come to a stop. This temporary solution should not be used in the long term. It is not good for the engine to run above idle for long periods with no load. In addition, it is not good for the life of the clutch to start from a standing stop at 2,000-3,000 RPM all the time.

your car will not move because your camshaft will not be rotating, therefore you will not have compression in your cylinders.

buy a head gasket remove the bolts,put the head gasket on the block line the new head up with the bolt holes put the bolts back in and put the cams back in time.

Basic first step diagnostics: Check for spark, check for gas then figure out (usually by tracing backwards) why you are not getting it (spark/gas).

it is located in the top right hand corner under the hood. It is in a box for like fuses and it says where it is in there... It is rather easy to change. I have to proble that my geo will not fire when warm but will always turn over. That relay didnt work for my car so good luck!

Torque sequence of what. Heads, wheels, etc.

Heres a list of step by step instructions. Hope this helps


Tools: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm deep well 6 or 12 point sockets various metric wrenches of the same size. It is more convienent to have these in 1/2 and 3/8 drive.
Impact Tools are a plus (USE CAUTION AND WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR!)
2 floor jacks
A trustworthy friend..

Steps:
1. Engage the parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels
3. Loosen the front lug nuts slightly then raise the vehicle with a floor jack about 14" lifting under the front cross-member.
4. Place jackstands under both the passenger and driver side of the Storm.
5. Lower the car and check to make sure your stands are secure. Place the jack under the transmission using a small 4x6 block of wood and just lift it enough to snug.
6. Remove the front wheels
7. Remove the throttle body air supply tube, and air filter by unlatching the air box and using a flat screwdriver at the throttle assembly.
8. Remove the Battery, then the two bolts retaining the coil to the battery tray. Disconnect the coil wire. (set the battery on a work bench, do not sit the battery on the ground!)
9. Disconnect the shift links from the shifter assembly. Make sure to remove the shims securing them to the retaining bracket. Make sure you remove the ground wire attached to the transmission, and the two red wires for the reverse lights below the battery tray.
10.Disconnect the clutch cable and rest it atop the intake manifold.
11.Disconnect the speedometer cable from underneath the vehicle,it should only be hand tight and should not require a tool to remove it.
12.Remove the brake caliper bracket as one assembly with a 17mm. Restrain the caliper to the coil spring with a heavy duty zip tie. (Do NOT let the caliper hang from the brake line.

*** Important -- Remove the transmission fluid carefully at this point. When you yank out the axle shaft, there would be tons of fluid dropping on your shop floor.

13.From the driver-side remove the two 17mm bolts retaining the strut to the spindle.
14.Instead of removing the bottom bolt securing the a-frame to the spindle remove the two 17mm bolts at the bottom that holds the entire assembly.
15.Remove the spindle and axle shaft as one whole unit, and setit aside. Place all the bolts and nuts inside of the jackstand base.
16.Remove the two 17mm bolts attaching the a-frame to the spindle (the bottom bolts) on the passenger side.
17.From underneath remove the two 14mm bolts attaching the axle shaft carrier bearing from the engine block.
18.Gently pry the passenger side axle-shaft out of the transmission housing. Pulling from the spindle, move the assembly outward and away from the transmission.
19.Remove the large tranny mounting bolt at the front of the vehicle.(Will need 17mm wrench for this to clear manifold)
20.Remove the front two bolts retaining the crossmember under the radiator.
21.Remove the two back crossmember bolts, then remove the large tranny mount bolt in back.
22.Twist the crossmember so that the front is pointing at the passenger side and then twist it so the bottom side faces the passenger side. Lower it out, then set it aside. (No..I don't know what that large round weight is mounted on the crossmember....).
23.Remove the three 14mm bolts holding the transmission to the mount underneath the battery tray. Then remove the large bolt retaining the mount to the body. Set the mount aside.
24.Now it's time to remove all of the transmission bolts that attach the tranny bellhousing to the engine. It is safer to start at the bottom and get these out first. Then get all of the top bolts leaving one secured.
25.This will require that friend I mentioned earlier, the one standing around yapping about his car while you were working.
26.Use the other floor jack with a 4x6 block of wood and snug it underneath the oil pan.
27.Snug the jack under the gearbox part of the transmission and then remove the top bolt holding the transmission in. From underneath your friend should have a good hold on the transmission and all of the weight should be on the jack.
28.Gently pull the transmission away from the engine and give it a slight jerk if it is binded up. At this point you should see the separating of the transmission and engine from the top. It is safe to lower the jack slowly because the mainshaft is short enough to clear. DO NOT USE THE CLUTCH LEVER TO HOLD THE TRANSMISSION. (unless you want to find out where your throw out bearing landed..)
29.Communication is key, make sure your friend knows what you are doing when you are doing it. Once you have the transmission out place it aside.
30.Remove the bolts retaining the pressure place to the flywheel and place the clutch disk aside. Check the pressure plate for scoring or deep groves. (It is always a good idea to have the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop if installing a new clutch! $35-$40 is worth having to do this again 3 months later!)
31.Following the manufacturers directions place the new clutch disk against the flywheel using a clutch alignment tool. With the tool still attached place the (hopefully new) pressure plate against it and "SNUG" all of the bolts in. Make sure it is centered and remove the tool then torque the pressure plate to 17 lbs.
32.Clean the inside of the bellhousing with contact cleaner, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner and replace the throw-out bearing and retaining spring. Take carefull note of how the spring is mounted. If you put this in upside down it WILL come off. Lube the shaft, bearing, fork and fork spring with synthetic or standard grease.

Installation of the transmission is the reverse of removal. To ensure that the transmission sits flush against the engine use a 1/2 drive socket wrench and socket to turn the engine over by the harmonic balancer bolt. This will turn the splines on the clutch so they line up with the mainshaft splines on the transmission.

It depends on each year. Some years have only 5 or so hurricanes, others, like 2005, have more than 15! These numbers are only for the Atlantic basin, however.

#1 is about 2 to 3 O'clock firing counter clockwise 1342.

It should be in the main fuse block under the hood on the 91 Geo storm its located on the drivers side under the hood above the wheel well. Its the number 3 fuse.

First step is 29ft lbs and the second and final step is 58ft lbs intake side *10 *6 *2 *3 *7 header side *9 *5 *1 *4 *8 make sure you follow this patter when tourqueing head bolts and removeing head bolts to.

do like i did and buy the muffler you like. Then go to a muffler shop and have them make a cat back exhaust. Its cheaper and you dont have to worry if it will fit right.

Depends on what you are driving and the condition of the road.

I would say you have a bad water pump, thermostat or a bad hose depending on where the antifreeze is spraying from. If the antifreeze is coming from the timing cover area you have a bad pump, if it is coming from the front area of the motor I would say bad hose, if you are hearing a gurgling sound from the radiater I would say bad thermostat.

This is normally done with an impact wrench... a type of air tool. The impact wrench can tighten the pulley without turning the crank. You can probably rent a compressor and an impact wrench with sockets from your local tool rental company.

Remove the distributor from the engine by completely. Record the postions of the rotor and base BEFORE removal. Drive out the pin at that holds the drive 'gear' ontot the distributor shaft. The rest of the distributor disassembles from the 'outside'. Several bolts hold the coil assembly in place. Replace all of the O-rings when re-assembling.