Geo Storm

No - The crankshaft bolt will loosen counter-clockwise. Because the crank bolt is so hard to remove it can seem as though it is reversed threaded. The crank turns the opposite direction that is used to tighten the bolt. For the crank bolt Lefty-Loosey (counter clockwise), Righty-Tighty (clockwise) apply here. The crank bolt is tightened to 87 ft/lbs of torque. It took more then 87 ft/lbs of torque to loosen my crank bolt. The manual says to apply a drop of motor oil when reinstalling the bolt. An Harmonic Balancer Pully Holding Tool is used to hold the crank while working with the crank bolt. Holding Tools can be found on the internet for $20 to $73. There are two sizes, 45 mm and 50 mm. For a 1990 model year the size is 50 mm. I made an Harmonic Balancer Pully Holding Tool by tack welding a 2 foot length of 1 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch piece of stock, for a handle, on a 2 inch (50 mm) hex nut. The nut fits into the pully to hold the crank and the socket, used to turn the crank bolt, fits through the nut.

A corroded ground connection on the wires for the fuel tank harness can cause the gas gauge on a 1992 GEO to not work properly. The wires are located under the back seat inside the vehicle.

You should know

if they are not moving, responding or you know........ BREATHING!!

try the pickup coil under the dist. cover.

I have a Geo Storm and my fuse box is under my hood on the left side upper corner.

There is also a fuse box by the drivers left foot on the side wall under an easily removable cover (no tools needed). That is the location of the "Cigar lighter" fuse.

ECM on these have a habit of going out. They were dipped in plastic to protect them but over time due to hot/cold expansion cycles the plastic pulls the component off the boards. There was a move to get a recall going, but it was unsuccessful. They are very expensive, but you can get one from a junk yard for about $25-45 these days.

If it's the standard engine, yes. Both the first generation ('89-'92) and second generation ('93-'97) Prizms were powered by the same engine, the 4A-FE, but the option of a more powerful engine was also available to buyers, the 4A-GE engine for the first generation cars and the 7A-FE for the second generation cars.

It means the engine computer has found a problem, find the ALDL connector behind the passenger side kick panel, it is clearish in color, not the greeen or orange, jumper the outside terminals, 1 and 3 with a paper clip, with the key on and engine off count the check engine light flashes for the codes, the codes will repeat until the clip is removed.

You can find code meanings at Stormowners.com data center

What you describe sounds like a bad battery since the car will run until you shut it off .It is possible that the alternator is not charging. Try this test, after a quick jump start when the battery is dead disconnect the positive battery cable, if the engine dies then the alternator is shot, if not then it is probably the battery. A better test is to put a voltmeter on the battery when running you should have about 14 or more volts, and when not it should read above 12 like 12.6. 12 or less is not good. A load test is the best. Take it to the parts store and they can test them both for free.

I work for a mechanic shop and labor calls for 5 Hrs for experienced mechanics. Along with a lot of curse words lol

Timing Belt.... Check all your belts.

150 psi

It's threaded into the front of your exhaust manifold.

The OBD1 or "ALDL" (Assembly Line Data Link) connector is behind the lower right-hand corner of the glovebox, or above and to the right of the front passenger's feet.

In some Storms, the Haynes manual claims there are up to three connectors. The white one is the engine one, the orange one is the airbag/SIR, and the green one is the transaxle. My 1991 Storm apparently only has the white ALDL/OBD1 connector.

I wouldn't mess with the orange one, if it's there.

To put the ECM (Engine Control Module/Ignition Control Module/Engine Computer) into diagnostic mode, where it will flash codes at you using the "MIL" (Malfunction Indicator Light or "Check Engine" light), short pins 1 and 3 of the ALDL/OBD1 connector using a paperclip. When you then turn the key into the on position, the MIL should flash once, then pause a bit, then flash twice. That means code "12." If there are other codes, they will be flashed out as well. All codes are two digits.

I am replacing the heater core and followed the skimpy instructions in a paperback manual that were very lacking. There were many steps that were not covered and this might help you if you are doing this job. I had the refrigerant in the air conditioning evacuated, disconnected the refrigerant lines and the air conditioning throttle valve at the firewall, then removed the water hoses to the heater (I am also doing a head removal that made access to the firewall tons easier. That's the easy part! You will need to disconnect the battery, remove the two 10 amp fuses in the fuse box that feed the air bag as well as disconnecting the orange wiring connector at the base of the steering column under the dash. It helped to take the three screws off that hold the square, silver box to the left of the steering column to better access the orange connector. Remove the glove box by gently pulling while twisting the hinge pins at the bottom inside of the box. Remove the center screw near the latch that fastens to the dash. Remove the center console, radio and its housing bracket that connects to the floor, and heater control lever assembly. Now remove two screws under the instrument bezel. Remove the small access covers on the top of the bezel that conceal the other two screws, remove screws and pull out bezel (The instrument cluster remains for now). Remove wiring connectors from bezel that feed the light switches and wipers. Remove screws that hold the instrument cluster, and pull out partially to allow removal of speedometer cable and wire connections after which you will then be able to easily remove the instrument cluster. Remove screws that hold the dash trim strip where the dash meets the windshield. There are screws that hold the ends and one in the center that is concealed by a small access cover. You need something like a small flat hook-like tool to pry the small square plastic screw concealing cover up and back. Now the dash hold down bolts will be exposed to allow their removal. The center fastener is a nut that holds the dash down on a fixed stud. The Dash will eventually need to be pulled up over the stud to clear the stud before the dash will pull away from the firewall. There are some other minor fasteners that hold various parts of the dash to brackets under the dash. Keep wiggling the dash to see where it is hanging up and remove what you need to. Once the dash is loose you simply pull it out. You will have good access to the heating/cooling assembly. Remove the control cables and wiring to the unit. Then remove the six or so nuts that attach the unit to the firewall. Remove the center floor ducting by removing three or four small screws that hold it to the main unit. You will notice a tubular steel strut just behind the dash that runs the width of the interior that supported the dash. It has some sharp tabs welded to it, so be careful. The right side can be loosened by simply removing two bolts to facilitate removal of heater components. I tried to separate, pull, and wiggle the three component parts of the heater unit (right to left: Blower, air conditioning condenser housing, and the main control box that houses the heater core) to remove them. All came loose except for the black box that houses the air conditioner condenser. It would not need to be removed except to provide a path to remove the main box that houses the heater core. It feels very loose but something at the firewall is holding it from behind. I'll try again tomorrow.

Under the hood, inside a tube, sticking out of the transmission

The fan control switch is located in the bottom driver side of the radiator if your fan does not turn on when the car has heated up to temperature unplug the fan switch and jumper the plug not the switch side if the fan comes on the switch is bad.

the clutch is really easy to install and the timing belt is not a problem if its shot

The 1993 Geo Storm is not an interference motor, because my belt just broke,(Nov 2005) and I got the same question answered on the following website: "www.nutzandboltz.org". My daughter's 1990 Geo Storm timing belt broke while she was driving it. She tried to start the engine but it would not run. We were told that it was an interference motor and that the motor was now shot. Being a little skeptical of the "experts" I put a new timing belt on and the engine started and has run fine for several months (clutch just went out). So much for the experts, by the way how ard is it to change the clutch? Thanks M in Omaha

Depends on which mount. I just got a low mileage 92 storm, and the front mount is TRASHED. That's the one by the radiator. To replace is simple. Lift the car a little for some room. Then , place a jack under the tranny (I like to use a piece of 2" x 8" wood between the jack and tranny (or engine lift point you choose).

Then , gently lift the tranny/engine slightly. You want to just slightly lift the motor to take the weight off the mount. When you lift, you'll see the motor move slightly, BUT NOT the car body. remove the nut on the front side motor mount bolt. Tap lightly on the bolt. if it wont move, SLIGHTLY raise or lower the motor until the bolt will slide out. The second bolt will be easy, since there is no pressure on it. Relpacement is the opposite. Rather than raise and lower to re-install, sometimes just some manly wiggling of the motor will get that last bolt to slide in.

BTW...Make SURE you use jack stands to support the car, if you are working from underneath.

Good luck,

Brad

Any commercial repair manual will show you the diagram for both single and dual overhead cam models.

No,it is right hand thread.

I think it is an old English folklore chant used to ward off evil spirits or demons, it goes something like this; "Here, here, here, dead man dead,(I have also heard it with red) let me pass as fast as said" then you would repeat it because it only works for a very short time, hence fast as said. Also I've heard the part;"let me pass" being said as; "light my way" instead.

They ALL crack eventually! This is such a widespread problem that you can't find an original manifold in junk yards, and even if you could you wouldn't want one. Why? They ALL crack eventually! The reason seems to be that the casting design had insufficient strength for the loading combination of heat/cool cycle, vibration and thrust from the weight of the exhaust system. (Simply put: a really lousy design.) Fortunately, most auto parts stores and many of the larger junk yards offer aftermarket versions (built much stronger, especially in the "crotch" of the center "V") for $125 or so, though persistance may produce a better deal. There are more than one aftermarket manufacturers of these replacements (no one seems to care if any one is better than the others ... as long as it's better than the original! An alternative would be a set of performance exhaust "headers". E-Bay may have used or new ones. I had my friend at midas weld my manifold and it lasted for a long time. I didn't think it would work but it did! I eventually bought a new reinforced one online because I thought it was leaking again, but it turned out to be the gasket at the bottom of the manifold that was leaking that time.

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