Geo Tracker

Convertible (your not cutting steel now are you, funny im doing that now)

this is the change over year 94

contact top maker , they have the answer.

the change over happened during the 93 fiscal year. so body manufacture dates

are KEY !

the differences are radical.

join the suzuki forum and ask there. get photos ,there, this question there has

been answered 1000, of times.

or ask you vender , they know, as they have answered 100k times.

If you are talking about the output shaft on the power steering shaft. From what I have ran into there is no fix. they do not make rebuild kit for them. But if you have a small leak you can try putting a little brake fluid in the reservoir that may stop the problem, if it is rally bad then try using a commercial stop leak. Lucas oil products makes a really good product. but follow the directions to the letter. good luck,,

Hi, I had a very similar problem, ran fine under most all conditions but pulling a steep grade. Turned out that the fuel filter was partialy plugged

. Enough gas got through in most conditions but when it needed all it could get, it was not enough. A $10 filter fixed the problem. I would check for vaccum leaks as this could cause very similar symptoms. A simple crack or split end can cause the engine to suck air instead of gas/air through the intake. There are alot of hoses and each one should be checked. even a loose end can leak and affect performance and manifold pressure.

This type of failure(cracking or splitting) is VERY common

about 8.5 gallons

Normally when an engine is "seized up" it is frozen to the point that the crankshaft will not turn in the bearings. This is caused by heat most times the car has been run low or out of oil. The parts that have seized or melted together could be main or rod bearings, piston rings etc. If the engine will not turn over by hand it probably time for a complete rebuild or a new engine. Sorry

e is for the exaust stroke......i is for ignition stroke......i is the one you are looking for

they are a piece of crap if you want a jeep buy a real one not some fake a** wanna be suzuki Chevy or what ever they want to put in them there are so many different part in these vehicle its ridiculous so if your having problems just get rid of it and get a real jeep

At the engine end of the upper rad hose, Make sure when you reinstall it the spring goes toward the enigne.

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

The rear wheels of a 2wd pickup seldom have much weight. The sandbags can give just a little more weight to the rear, providing a slight advantage in weight distribution. If you have a 4wd it won't help you at all.

Under dash on driver's side veticaly mounted.

Ground Control Points, which are commonly referred to as "GCPs", allow images to be georeferenced to a higher degree of accuracy. Ground control points are locations on the earth which have been accurately surveyed for both their elevation and GPS location. Without these control points an images georeferencing is based solely off of the data from positioning hardware aboard the imager and a sensor model. In addition to the increased accuracy obtained by using GCPs, a Digital Elevation Model (DEM) should be used so that you correct for elevation errors.

Hi, The condenser or the coil could be bad, i.e. a dead short or the ignitor, the main relay could also be shorted . Those are what I'd look at first as they are all protected by the 15A fuse.

My 95 is doing the same thing. I met other users that have the same problem as well. A friend of mine with a shop looked up the service bulletin and found a know problem. With certain years I believe 95-98, the Cam key by the timing belt wears out and causes the timing to slip off. I changed everything recently, fuel filter, plugs, wires, PCV, distributor cap, rotor, and no change. Did everything at the same time. So.....I am going to change the timing belt, cam key, tensioner, water pump, and see what happens. I will let you know. I am having a similar problem. I live in the mountains and so when I go uphill and engine is under load it cuts out. I have a 1993 that I just purchased to restore. Anyway my mechanic suggested replacing the fuel filter. Im going to leave it with him next week if it continues. I will post the results. Hope its not the keyway..ive heard of that problem before and even ran across a posting where someone welded the keyway in place.

The timing mark is on the crank pulley, a little " V " cut. It gets aligned with the 8 degree BTDC mark on the degree scale just above the crank pulley on the timing belt cover. Use an induction timing light hooked up to the #1 spark plug wire (front of engine) and the battery. Painting the timing marks white helps to see. I use white out. Works good.

You hold the "rcl" button in and use the "seek/scan button for hours and minutes.

under the left dashboard. Also under the hood right near the battery.

Broken at the handle in the passenger compartment? Use vice grips on the cable. Pull the handle and nothing happens or cable just pulls out? Crawl under front and reach up and release the latch manually. No way huh. Okay, this is rather drastic but... (cough) fire attack personnal will cut a square hole(saw-n-spark) right above where that latch is located in the hood itself in the event of an engine fire. Now, I don't know what car you have, but without that release cable working there's not many options. Body work, or used hood replacement (junkyard) may be the answer to your bummer. ps. but don't call the fire dept. c-ya grade a da mopar man! Hi, I'm wondering where the hood release is broken? I'll take that the idea that the releasehandle is broken. The glove box needs to be removed and you can grab the cable from under the dash where the cable is. The worst case is if it's broken inside the engine compartment at the latch, The idea that I have is to remove the grill and reach from there to release the latch. I've just gone and looked at the situation and it does look as if, with a bit of work, you can locate and releaqse the latch by removing the grill. Hopefully, the latch is rusty and needs to be lubed to work but if it's broken, then buy the new cable assy which loos as it might contain the latch assy too. Hope this helps and good luck. Steve H.

Its on the Air box

Check out Suzuki Forums . com

On_mitch

You ensure the forks are lowered and push the forks under a pallet. Turn the handle all the way to the right or left so it it properly stored.

Hi, The headlights really aren't a fixable item. You need to remove the grille to access the srews that hold the headlight in place, remove the headlight and replace it, I suggest either a local junk yard or EBay that's where I found mine. After you replace the headlight then replace the grille. If you need to repair the wire, you really need to solder them together and then double shrinkwrap the connection. If you haven't soldered before, practice on some wires outside the car or have a friend who can solde do it for you, if he drinks a bottle or case would be a good pay for the help. The whole job is easy with just a few ordinary tools.

Steve H.

auto mechanics are paid through a uniform source book and based on how long it takes to work on a certain project. Example: rotate 5 tires with the one in the trunk 1/2 an hour at a rate of 128 dollars per hour.

Geo 1.0 and 1.3l like yours plug up a lot. Simply take the valve off and clean it and the ports it uses to route the vacuum and exhaust gas.