Honda Accord

WATER PUMP IS LEAKING,.

FRAM makes garbage oil filters, I cut one open and the inside was cardboard.

I will only use pennzoil oil filters because It keeps the oil clean and they are very strong filters.

The WIX filters are the best in my opinion.

17 Gallons

That would be the fuel pump humming in the gas tank. The access panel and pump mount is usually located in the top of the tank under the trunk, right behind the back seat. It could mean that the pump is wearing out, and could also just be normal.

Fill up the fuel tank.

You pour into the valve cover.

if fails to start or it dies randomly.

means u need to take it to Honda dealer, many things can be wrong nothing specific

Go to auto zone and have the altermator checked out.

Sounds like you need a speed sonsor

Once you see code on the display use the preset buttons to enter the 5 digit code.

ive been trying for the last 8 hours im gonna heat it up and drill it out tried everything else

go to you tube and see Erick the car guy ...he shows how to do this.

Remove oil pan for access

Would have been built for R12, can be converted to R134a.

press and hold the 0000 buttom while it's showing the trip mileage

You need a Honda transmission fluid, and I am not being a wise guy

The 2004 Honda Accord's turning circle is 36.1 ft..

Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals WHEEL LUG NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Retighten the lug nuts to the specified torque within 100 miles (160 km) after any wheel disturbance (rotation, flat tire, wheel removal, etc.). Bolt size Wheel lug nut torque* lb.ft. N•m M14 x 2.0 150 200 * Torque specifications are for nut and bolt threads free of dirt and rust. Use only Ford recommended replacement fasteners. When a wheel is installed, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign materials present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contacts the wheel. Ensure that any fasteners that attach the rotor to the hub are secured so they do not interfere with the mounting surfaces of the wheel. Installing wheels without correct metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the wheel nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, resulting in loss of control. Note: Inspect the wheel pilot hole prior to installation. If there is visible corrosion in wheel pilot hole, remove loose particles by wiping with clean rag and apply grease. Apply grease only to the wheel pilot hole surface by smearing a "dime" (1 square cm) sized glob of grease around the wheel pilot surface (1) with end of finger. DO NOT apply grease to lugnut/stud holes or wheel-to-brake surfaces. 2008 F-150 (f12) Owners Guide (post-2002-fmt) USA (fus)

REPLACING SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS ON 1999 HONDA ACCORD.

(1998-2002 should use the same procedure)

Fist of all, I am not responsible for any damages incurred while following my suggestions, however I just performed this repair about half an hour ago, and everything turned out ok. I called Honda, and they told me how to do it, I did it, and know I am passing it on to you guys. Good luck.

all Right... My mirror broke so removing it was not a problem since concern of damage to the glass was not a factor, however, the way the glass (along with its plastic cover on the back) comes out, and snaps in is by the use of pressure. Amazingly these weak looking mirrors can take more pressure than it appears they can take.

How to put it in:

They snap in from three places:

a. A big circle in the middle (same function of a ball joint, except that it is not a complete ball)

b. one small ball joint in the back upper part of the mirror

c. one small ball joint in one of the sides in the back of the mirror. my mirror was the right one, so the side ball joint was towards left.

PUTTING THE NEW SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS ON

1. The first thing I did was to oil the three joints where this thing was to snap using 3-in-1 oil. you can use WD-40 or just motor oil.

2. Then, with the electric control from the driver's door and with someone holding the tip of the ball joints in the actuator, retract BOTH ball joints as far in as they go.

3. Now the step that hurts follows: Hold the mirror still, align the center circle of the plastic thing in the back of the glass with that of the actuator, and use gentle pressure WITH THE OPEN PALM OF YOUR HAND on the outside of the glass part. Slowly increase the pressure to a not-so-gentle pressure until you hear and feel the thing SNAP! When this happens the mirror is in place.

4. To snap the actuator ball joints in place, starting by the top one, get someone to gently push the mirror on the top part as far in as it goes and hold gentle pressure, while the other person is pushing the electric control in the opposite direction. This will rotate the tip of the ball joints against the slots in the back of the mirror and the mirror will start pushing out; let it come out all the way.

5. Visually check that the protuberances in the tip of the ball joint align with the slots in the back of the mirror. If they do, then with gentle pressure start pushing in on the top of the mirror (remember we are doing the top first). You will hear a grinding noise as the mirror pushes in. When it pushes in no further, keep increasing pressure with the PALM OPEN more towards the top of the glass, and you will hear/feel it snap. This may take significant pressure. how do these things don't break??? I don't know.

The top ball joint must now be in place. Confirm by actuating the mirror from the electrical control up and down; If it moves in both directions, then the top joint is DONE!

6 . repeat steps 4 and 5 for the side ball joint, and the mirror should work and look like new.

Orlando

You probably have a bad window switch (someone else wrote)

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I have a 1990 Toyota Camry DX with power windows and locks. The series of car run from 1987,1988,1989,1990,1991. I prefer the crank windows. This is my 3rd Toyota of this series. AND...

I wish the window switch would be that easy... maybe on some but not the one I have. It is the rear passenger window. It would go down but not up. So I thought that I would get a used MASTER window switch. But that one could be bad also... how do I know. The tests that I ran were to find out if the wires that were going to the widow switch were getting power. (Using a multimeter-12volts) I would press down on the Master switch to see if there was any power coming through. I would have power on one wire but not on the other. Before I even started this, I pulled out the window motor and tested it by connecting a wire to the battery of the car to see if it would go up and down by switching the wires from positive to negative and vise-versa. So I am still waiting to find a used 'WORKING' Master window switch to swap and find out if it works or not. If a good one doesn't work... IT HAS TO BE A GROUNDED/SHORTED or cut off wire somewhere along the path of the one wire. The MASTER SWITCH is fairly complicated. I have taken it apart to test and see if there was anything that may have broken/severed/blown up BUT found nothing significant. I tried using logic by the process of elimination and that's why I'm thinking that it is the MASTER window switch. Did you ever try and buy a new one? Did you ever look at the cost of a new one? It seems to be worth more than the car. W

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17.1

That there are some big fish and some small fish bot they both eat steak on a stick on the first tusday of every leap frogs back

22.9 oz

1342

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