Jeep Cherokee Laredo

Frame rail on either the driver or passenger side.

All four are 6 inch.

The Jeep frame is what is called a unibody. It is welded to the body. therefore if it is hit and bends one or the other, the other one must go with it. There is a fine line where the bend can be bent back close enough to what the factory calls good enough. I hope this helps.

CORRECTION>>>>>The above is incorrect. Unibody is a sheetmetal framework that is formed out of the body of the vehicle itself. Jeeps do not use Unibody construction The SMALL Cherokee (no longer made) utilized a composite constuction of two subframes and a partial unibody. ALL other Jeeps are and were full framed and were NEVER "WELDED" to a frame. This is why they can be "body lifted".

The issues you are referencing are inherent to any properly constructed vehicle designed for off road use. As these vehicles are subjected to stresses far beyond that of those presented by even the worst road, they are built with extremely stiff frames that do not flex excep under the most severe conditions, which would make any other frame twist and stay twisted. While this means that they can take greater strain and stress without sustaining damage in an accident, it also has the adverse affect of making them too stiff to be easily and permanently straightened during the course of collision repair, where a lesser fame would be repairable.

This has to be understood that while it can be detrimental, it also means that a jeep frame will survive collisions WITHOUT twisting that would require major repairs on other frames. Another point must be made for the fact that there are substantially greater numbers of OLD jeep vehicles registered and on the road than any other manufacturers 4WD vehicles, and with AGE comes rust which does compromise a vehicle frame. This alone does skew the statistics in this matter. So you can see this is a relative issue, which really isn't a negative thing once you understand all the real facts.

Probably 4-5 Add 4 then check

P0725 indicates Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction.

None. Chrysler stopped making the Cherokee in 2001.

Green (mopar)

starter, solonoid, ignition, battery. if it clicks when you turn the key then the battery is really dead or its the starter the battery could still be jumped if its the battery.

i believe your relay might be acting up. i would replace it r u sure u aren't stuck on delay!!?? been there, done that!! This happened on our 94 Sunbird LE...it is indeed the relay.

Luckly the guys on the jeep forum knew the answer and you can do this without welding. The pins can actually be taen out by cuting the heads off with a dremal tool. The replacement pins can be bought at advance auto parts. part # 38423 with the c clips to keep them in place. This this is the link to the forum where i found it. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=506080 I finally got tired of my slightly sagging front drivers door and decided to replace both the upper and lower hinge pins on my 95ZJ.

It really wasn't a difficult process, it just took some time. I would say that two hours would be plenty start to finish.

You'll need a few items before you start:

1. Replacement Hinge Pins. I got mine from Advance Auto.

2. 9MM socket with socket wrench for the four bolts that hold the door to the Jeep.

3. Possibly a small Torx bit (not sure on the size) I believe it would depend on the year on your vehicle if you would even need one or not. This is for the electrical connection hub on the door.

4. A dremel type tool with a cut-off attachment to cut the old hinge pins out. Some have suggested a chisel for the hinge pin heads. I had zero luck with that option.

5. A base of some type to rest the door on while removing the bolts holding the door.

6. A work are big enough to rest a door on it's side. I used the bed of a pickup parked near the Jeep, but a couple of saw horses with a blanket over the top will work.

7. Some lithium grease to lubricate the new pins after you put them in.

I first opened the door and then slid the rubber boot back that contains the electrical wireing. There is not much room in there at all. In the middle of that black plastic connection is a bolt that takes a small torx bit. Again, I'm not sure of the size. I used the torx bit fitted to the end of a 1/4" closed end wrench ( about 4" long). The wrench was used to turn the torx bit while I kept finger pressure towards the plastic wire assembly. This will take a couple of minutes to undo the screw. You'll know you are making progress when you see the plastic assembly start to pull away from the door.

Once that is complete, you'll need to support the outer edge of the door with something. I used a bucket with a folded towel.

Now you can remove the bolts that hold the door in place. I loosened all the bolts (4) a few turns first. I then removed one from the top and bottom. I removed the other bottom one and then the top one last. As I removed the last top one, I started to hold onto the door to give it a little more support. If it sags too much, the bolt will start to bind. The door is heavier than I though it would be.

Now that the door is off, set it in your predesignated work area. I attempted to knock the top of the heads off the hinge pins (15 minutes with no noticable success). I moved to grinding them off (about the same results). I then got out the dremel tool and used a 1 1/4" cut off wheel and cut through the pin in about 1 minute. The angle will be important to avoid hitting the hinge and to allow clearance to get entirely through the pin.

Once you cut through, knock both sides of the pin out and slide the loose hinge out. Remove the old steel rings and rubber reinforced sleeve from the hinge (If there is any left).

Open the new hinge replacement and slide in the brass sleeves. They go in from the top and bottom. I used a pliers to get them started and then just tapped them in the rest of the way.

You may choose to put a little bit of grease on the brass sleeves and hinge pin before you slide it back into the door slot. For the top hinge, you will have to put the pin in from the bottom. Once it was in as far as I could push it, I used a hammer to seat it the rest of the way. Since there was no lock ring for the top of the pin, I'm hoping the knurling at the head of the hinge pin will hold it. The bottom hinge will go straight down so there should be no need to worry about it backing out.

Put the door back on and reconnect the electrical. That's it...

yes sounds like the bolts were put into wrong places.bolts on water pum are different lengths and can do serious damage if installed in wrong place

I have a 1995 contour with the same exact problem. The autoshop said it was some type of temperature sensor. It cost me $58.00. They said there was only two sensors that it would affect. They changed them both. I also changed the water pump and thermostat. It still appears to be warm, but it's nothing compard to what it used to be. I also had the same problem, and replaced my engine twice cause the mechanics didn't find the right problem...the water pump was to blame on my 2nd engine, and when it overheated, it warped the very thin and weak head cover, so if you are still running warm, you might want to check your gaskets, and your water pump. The more you overheat, the higher your risk of warping your head, and they cannot be shaved, they have to be replaced. Your cylinders may also become scored, so check your spark plugs for anitfreeze. Contours do tend to run warm, just beaware of your temperatures, a new engine cost over $3000 CDN plus labour.

You most likely have a heater core that is leaking.

answering this because i took my car to a dealer and they told me they couldn't find the plug. Got upset with their lack carrying, so I told them I would also look up where and how its plug into a reader. Within less then five mins. ( web surfing) , I found out that the old code readers -for older cars- is under the hood. My 1993 Jeep grand cherokee is located under the hood near the antenna. So.... wow, I don't work on cars for a living, but im super upset that I had to go to three different shops, before a worker had the heart to say they didn't know how to scan my car (even tho its what they do for a living). So mostlikly I will get charged a lot of money because they wasted hours on something that should have taken max 30 mins. to learn. so again Two places your code reader plug will be at depending on year : BELOW THE STEERING WILL (OR TO THE SIDE OF THE STEERING WHEEL) OR ITS UNDER THE HOOD (MOSTLIKLY NEAR ANTENNA)---WHY WAS THIS SO HARD-- because your car mostlikly is very old and uses Chrysler OBD1 plug or something else other then the new plug.

It is 27 foot-pounds.

Check the CPS crankshaft position sensor first...then use a dvom to look at the coils... I'd get a manual for the diagnostics...and your library may have one to use free dave

TRY THIS....PUSHEH IN ON THE DOOR AND HOLD IT IN WITH YOUR LEFT HAND AS YOU ARE LIFTING THE HANDEL WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND, I KNOW SOUNDS LIKE WORK BUT JEEP MADE IT NOT ME...HOPE IT WORKS ***** to fix it, run by a body shop & ask them to remove the rear carpet panel that hides the inside "guts" of the rear door & this will expose the lock mechanism which holds a small silver cable that is ribbed that has slipped too far up and they can grab the cable and pull it up basically sliding it back into two "claws" that hold it in place and the latch/handle will open like new, it only cost me $20 and was very simple to fix *********

The 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee takes 21" wiper blades on both sides front and a fairly specialized 12" rear wiper that is difficult to find in the stores. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are currently over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

you may have the security enabled if equiped. try going to the passenger door and unlock it with a key. look to see if the interior lights come on... then try to start it again. if the battery is dead, every time you loose power this will happen, so take care to keep power to the battery.

The starter is located under the Jeep on the drivers side. There is a guard plate that has to be removed to access it. It is right when the transmission connects to the engine.

Pictures of the steps, especially the "keeper", would be handier than random pictures of Jeeps.

You have to drop the transmission, remove the throwout bearing/slave cyl, replace it, re-install the trans, bleed the system.

The 1996 ( most other model years ) Jeep Cherokee has either the DANA 35 rear axle or the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. ABS brakes are optional with the Dana 35 . The Chrysler 8.25 never had ABS. The front axle is the DANA 30.

Below the dashboard on the right-hand side, behind a curved plastic shroud, is a connector for the blower "resistor pack" and the resistor pack itself, which is bolted into the heater box. This is a small unit containing the resistor coils which allow the blower to operate at different speeds. It contains its own thermal fuse. This can go bad which will stop your blower from working. Also, the connector can get corroded which will interrupt the current flow to the motor. When you replace the resistor pack, make sure you clean the contacts in the connector. In rare instances the dashboard switch itself can go bad, but the resistor pack failing is far more likely. Oh, and it's a pain to remove. You have to unbolt the recirculating air vacuum motor to get to the front screw...

The spark plug gap for the 4.0 L engine is .35 inches.

The 4.7L is an overhead cam V8. The 4.0 is a push rod inline 6.