Jeep Comanche

an nv 3550 transmission would be good.. an nv 4500 would even be better but you would have to buy an adapter

well you by a hitch appropriate to the tong of your trailer (standard is 1 and 7/8 inches). you then mount it on your rear bumper, it took me awhile to find a hitch that would fit in the whole on the bumper, but if you go to a mechanics he can drill it out and make anything fit.

First, what have you done maintenance wise? Replaced the Air filter lately? Replaced your PCV breather or PCV valve? Tune up done? Evap system in order? etc..... If you have maintained these things great !!! Then;

Most likely, your carburetor is running too rich.... So when starting cold, your enging is running too rich which will cause the sputtering until it warms up.... The 2.8 carburetor has no external adustments to correct this problem so a replacement carburetor or overhaul may be in order to correct this.

But if you have not changed your air filter in awhile, you could be starving your jeep of the air it needs to run properly which could also cause the sputtering....

In the extended cab, it is located behind the jump seat on the passenger's side.

To install a temperature gauge on a 2003 Chevy Impala, first, locate the engine's coolant temperature sensor, typically found near the thermostat housing. Disconnect the battery, then remove the existing sensor and replace it with the new temperature gauge sensor, ensuring it's securely fitted. Connect the gauge's wiring to the sensor and route the gauge to the dashboard, securing it in place. Finally, reconnect the battery and test the gauge for proper function.

The Comanche verb meaning to love is kamakʉrʉ. Its literal meaning is "wanting someone to remain nearby".

They didn't dominate the plains. The Lakota and Cherokee were more dominant in the plains along with the Blackfoot.

1-5-3-6-2-4

On my 87 Comanche, Interior of the Cab drivers side fuse box long silver circuit breaker at the bottom of the fuse box. By long I mean rectangular as opposed to round. It is a circuit breaker not a fuse that controls the Wipers.

Loosen all visable bolts on power-steering pump (4.0 Liter only). Take a 12mm socket with approx. 4-6" ext. (3/8 drive will do nicely....) and reach UNDER the right-hand side of the pump, and you should find a tensioning bolt. Relax tension until belt comes off. You may need a small pry-bar to push unit inward once tension is released. Install is opposite of de-install. *NOTE: If you get the old belt off and forget how to put the new one back on, just remember, no matter what make,model, vehicle, the OUTSIDE of the belt runs on slick pullies, and the INSIDE of the belt runs on the pullies with raised grooves.............If you don't have PWR STR you'll probably have an idler bracket & bearing (rider's-side) with adjmt.......Hope this helps.

take out the plug and fill it till it comes back out the fill hole

I figured it out. The drain plug does not take a standard size that we have here in the U.S. My 3/8 ratchet was just a little to large to fit into the plug opening. I took a 3/8 bolt and squared it off using my bench grinder (basically ground the threads off of the bolt). I only took a little off each side and on my third attempt the bolt fit the opening. Then, I put a 9/16 socket on the bolt head and was able to loosen the drain plug. The bolt also works to loosen the fill plug. The transmission is in a 1987 Jeep Comanche. It's my sons truck and he got it stuck underwater in a creek bed and water got into the transmission and the engine oil pan. We got almost 8 gallons of water out of the cab with the shop vac after he drained at least that much water from the cab when I pulled him out of the creek. (I think he enjoyed it anyway.)

No, the bolt pattern is totally different. You may be able to find an adapter, if you search. I know of none. I believe that the Jeep 2.8 and the Chevy 2.8 are the same motor, both made by GM and used in the Comanche, Cherokee, Blazer and S-10. If you are planning on replacing the motor I recommend using the cheaper, better built 2.5. They have roughly the same torque and you'll only be losing about 5-10hp which you can make up with a "cold air" kit and throttle body spacer.

behind the driver seat its a smal black jack that is to small to work for most comanches

yes Chrysler was a dumb company for this one

I found it to be the throttle sensor on mine. Cost me about $40. And put it on myself. It's looks like a small wire harness under the end of the airintake hose coming from the airfilter box.

i would say its your coil check it for spark if no spark then check it for power Ah, but what is the reason for no power? This really sounds like the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), which is notorious for crapping out in these engines. I'm replacing the CPS in my 1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0L tomorrow morning. I have the exact problem noted: I have just replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor (once every ten years!), the thing cranks strongly, and yet I've got no spark. I told my Comanche Brother (also has a 1988) that the Jeep won't start and it feels like a sensor problem ... and he said, "Crankshaft Position Sensor." That's when I remembered the same doggone thing causing me a no-start condition about ten years back. The CPS is about $35 -- I just bought one. When you read up on the CPS, I think you'll find your symptoms noted. Provided that this fixes my no-start condition, I'll be getting another and keeping it handy. Update on the 1988 Comanche that would not start ... it started right up. The funny thing is that I didn't even get to change out the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) yet, because it was too cold for that mess today. But here's the thing: it (the no-start condition) was related to the CPS. Since it was too cold to fool around on the engine block today, I unplugged and replugged the CPS connector a couple of times to see if that would get the truck started -- and it did on the first crank. I read about this trick on-line somewhere, and I'll be darned if it didn't work. That's definitely one to remember! In my truck, the CPS connector is right up on top, just to the driver's side of the line of cylinders, back toward the firewall, and just forward of what looks to be the main wiring harness. Son of a gun.

Most new coolant is tinted red or green. If you have a different color than that look into it a little further. You may have oil in you coolant causing it to be a brown color.

Yes

Jeep did not make Wrangler for model year 1996. ... Exactly! I thought this was a trick question. The Jeep Wrangler (YJ) was made from 1987 through 1995. In 1996, Jeep gave the the Wrangler a complete overhaul and in 1997 the Wrangler was re-released as the TJ and now known as the JK. I guess the powers at Jeep listened to the people when they said how much they hated the SQUARE headlights! By the way, what does JK stand for? Just Kidding?

It should be right behind the grill. It is on a 1986.

I had a similar problem with mine. As well the engine would rattle just after stepping on the gas only. I suspected rocker arms. Retorquing them did help with power but did not solve the problem. After tearing things apart, and my truck dying, I discovered the cause of the problem, the connecting rod bearings. 2 bearings where spinning and one was fused to the crank. The slop in these bearings was making all the noise. Interestingly the rattle always sounded like it was coming from the back of the engine or on the passenger side of the engine, not the bottom where I would have expected it to be coming from. I hope that helps.

Peugeot BA 10/5

Usually a Dana 35, unless it has the metric ton package. Then it would have the Dana 44.

No if you want the maintence intervals buy a haynes manual or check if you have the owners manual