Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

It is located on the drivers side just under the dash about as far to the door (left) as you can get. It is a pink box about the size of a cigarette pack. I had luck just sliding it toward the front get it out.

If you want to make it stop a continuous chime that is an intermittent problem that you can't diagnose, carefully open the chime up and remove the "E" shaped metal bar. That will significantly reduce the sound.

russ

the sensor is located in the differential housing on the back of the transmission. (this is the speedomoter sensor, it is in the housing that the pass axle shaft slides into) For the 3.3/3.8L, it is near the bell-housing facing the firewall, as it senses the magnets that are on the torque converter when it spins. (that is the engine speed crank position sensor)

Yes. When you purchase them make sure that the lug nut pattern fits a jeep. WIth my jeep I used 15 inch wheels and 235-75X15 tires and they didnt rub the inside of the front wheel well when turning. I think you'd find that anything larger than that will rub.

It is a Dana 35 if it is abs, if not it could be an 8.25. The 8.25 has a flat spot on the bottom of the gear body while the Dana 35 is rounded @ the bottom. The 8.25 also has a lip on the outside of the cover.

Should be listed on the drivers door post and in the owners manual. The correct size is 225/75-15

first of all if you have and internet connection try chiltons.com or haynes.com, maybe try a direct Mitsubishi website. googling it always provides real good sites :) Try looking on the underside of the hood. You can find the timing info and spark plug gap there too!

5/16 metal, 3/8 hose (most likely)-but get the ones you need from a dealer. brake lines are critical for safety.

Probaably whatever is burning is not being blown away because your going slower. That is when your moving more air is pushing the odor away. Are you hearing any new noises? In a manual car it will probably be the clutch if you are riding it alot automatics don't make the smell unless ya are doing burnouts. Burning clutch smells a bit more metallic than rubber. I had the same occurence for a few months when getting out of my truck, was told it might be a plastic bag stuck on underside, but it was the tires being slightly underinflated, bad alignment plus my aggressive driving back then. I had this problem and it was a leaky valve cover gasket. oil was leaking on to the rest of the engine and the burning rubber smell was the smell the synthetic oil gave off. I had this problem too, but with me it turned out to be my surpentine belt burning as a result of my A/C Clutch was starting to lock up. Check your belt / belts for any discoloration. This would be a sign of it / them burning. And if it does end up being a belt, it could be anything with a pully being used by that belt that could be causing the problem. Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s); Incorrect belt tension will allow belts to slip; Loose or damaged belt tensioner will allow belts to slip; Worn or damaged idler/tensioner pulley; Spark plug or coil wire(s) making contact with hot engine; Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. bad fan belt or in correct tension on fan belt especially noticable if you are using a/c in stop and go traffic

The 2000 Chev Impala has the 4T65E tranny in it. The neutral safety switch is inside the tranny and the tranny has to some out in order for it to be replaced. I just had my transmission rebuilt and I was there when the mechanic took it apart. While they are in there have them check the 4th output hub shaft, there are some very fine splines on the end of that shaft that get worn. They can wear to the point where the car is put into gear and it won't move.

The antenna mast screws into the antenna mount on the fender. Unscrew the old one and crew in the new one. If you need to replace the entire antenna mount, you will need a new antenna mount assembly with antenna cable.

maybe you hit the child safety lock its a little flip switch on the door itself were the latch is. You need to take the door trim off and check, the connecting rod from the latch to the lock. The dealer told me I needed a new lock and all I needed was to adjust the conector on the rod. That conector will slip. After I got it adjusted I glued it with some silocone. #########

TRY PUSHING IN ON THE LID THEN PULL LEVER AND LID UP..IT JUST NEEDS PRESSURE RELIVED BEFORE IT WILL OPEN..

Deactivating/activating the belt minder feature

Read steps 1 - 9 thoroughly before proceeding with the

deactivation/activation programming procedure.

The Belt Minder feature can be deactivated/activated by performing the

following procedure:

Before following the procedure, make sure that:

² the parking brake is set

² the gearshift is in P (Park) (automatic transmission).

² the ignition switch is in the OFF position

² all vehicle doors are closed

² the driver's safety belt is unbuckled

² the parklamps/headlamps are in OFF position (If vehicle is equipped

with Autolamps, this will not affect the procedure.)

To reduce the risk of injury, do not deactivate/activate the Belt

Minder feature while driving the vehicle.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN (or ON) position. (DO NOT

START THE ENGINE)

2. Wait until the safety belt warning light turns off. (Approximately 1

minute)

² Steps 3--5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure will

have to be repeated.

3. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the

safety belt unbuckled. This can be done before or during Belt Minder

warning activation.

4. Turn on the parklamps/headlamps, turn off the parklamps/headlamps.

5. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the

safety belt unbuckled.

² After step 5 the safety belt warning light will be turned on for three

seconds.

6. Within seven seconds of the safety belt warning light turning off,

buckle then unbuckle the safety belt.

² This will disable Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable Belt

Minder if it is currently disabled.

7. Confirmation of disabling Belt Minder is provided by flashing the

safety belt warning light four times per second for three seconds.

8. Confirmation of enabling Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety

belt warning light four times per second for three seconds, followed by

three seconds with the safety belt warning light off, then followed by

flashing the safety belt warning light four times per second for three

seconds again.

9. After receiving confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is

complete.

I have a 2005 Kia Sportage and the fan relay is located behind the motor blower, mounted on a small bracket under the passenger side console.

It sure is! It can be knocked lose by a passenger's foot. With the fan on (and the car) tighten it. If that doesn't work you may need a new one.

It doesn't have an inertia switch. The fuel pump is controlled by a relay.

Fuel Pump Replaced and runs 20-30 miles and again cuts off!

Loosen the mounting bolt for the power steering pump, then loosen the tensioner bolt on the bottom of the power steering pump. (It's a long bolt that pushes the power steering pump away from the engine, which tightens the belt. Loosening this bolt will releive the tension on the belt.) When the tension is off the belt, it will slip free of the pulley and you can remove it.

Install the new belt by following the same path that the old one did. (There should be a sticker on the frame inside the hood that shows you the routing for the belt. Remember that the belt needs to pass under the pulley for the fan. Once you have the new belt in place, tighten the tensioner bolt on the power steering pump to snug up the belt. Make sure it's good and snug; you don't want more than 1/4 inch of total play in the belt.

Tighten the mounting bolt for the power steering pump, then start the engine and watch the belt to be sure it's centered on the pulleys and not slipping. Run the air conditioner and make sure the belt doesn't squeal. If it does, shut the engine off and tighten the tensioner some more. (Remember to loosen the mounting bolt first, and tighten it back up after you've adjusted the tensioner.)

could be the crank shaft positioning sensor 80 bucks

its located on the upper part of the bell of the transmission, drivers side, two screws. been there, done that, good luck, not easy to get to.

The crank sensor should be on the drivers side of the transmission bell housing. It's more towards the top of the bell housing. The easiest way to get to it is reaching down from the top of the engine just below the valve cover. Atleast that is where it is on my 91 4.0L

Go to a library or parts store and rent/buy a service manual.

ANSWER: The light socket is bad. They eventually will burn up if you keep replacing the bulbs like you are doing now. Go get the revised light socket from the dealership and you will be good.

I have checked all bulbs and wiring in the rear, but the light keeps coming on rear lamp failure, is it a bad ground? if, so where will I look for it.

Make sure the front seat is not reclined. If it is, the rear seatback may not fold down all the way.

To lower the rear seatback, follow these steps:

Disconnect the rear center lap-shoulder belt latch, if equipped, by using a pointed object to press the release button.

Pull forward on the seatback tab located on the outboard side of the rear seat cushion to fold the seatback down. This gives direct access to the trunk.

Caution: If the seatback is not locked, it could move forward in a sudden stop or crash. That could cause injury to the person sitting there. Always press rearward on the seatback to be sure it is locked.

Caution: A safety belt that is improperly routed, not properly attached, or twisted will not provide the protection needed in a crash. The person wearing the belt could be seriously injured. After raising the rear seatback, always check to be sure that the safety belts are properly routed and attached, and are not twisted.

5 quarts, but that engine is a V-6 not a V-8 as stated in the question.

it is such a code of 4 numbers you have to enter when you try to program new key eather lost or espair

If you are talking about the radiator/AC fans the relays are located on the drivers side mounted what looks like on the radiator. it's either an 8mm or 10mm bolt and it isn't very easy to get to. BTW, make sure that the car is cool, like I said they are mounted right near the radiator. There are 2 relays mounted back-to-back and the harnesses are a bit hard to unplug. Just don't snatch them by the wires or you'll create a bigger problem.

You can't reset it I've tried to unhook the battery and clear out the computer but it don't work. You have to take it to the dealer. Be ready to shell out around $500 and it will then come back on in the near futer. Mine did. I'm about ready to start up a class action law suit. They are ripping us off. Never had a car with so many problems.

I'll add my own experience. If you have access to a VAG Com you can turn the airbag light off, assuming that there isn't anything wrong with the airbag system. I took out my passenger seat and turned on the key without the seat installed, this kicks the warning light on. Once the passenger seat was reinstalled, I used my VAG Com to clear the code - since there wasn't anything wrong with the system. The system would trip the airbag warning light again if there was still a problem. If you haven't made any alterations to your car and you have a warning light, a trip to the dealership is really the safest thing...if it is self inflicted, fix the portion of the system that you were messing with, find someone with a VAG Com (Newbeetle.org has a list of VAGCom owners) or pay your dealer the $90 for them to reset it.

The only way i found to disarm the alarm was to use the back hatch lock. lock it and unlock it a few times with the key. if this doesnt work try the door locks