Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

Check to see if there is a fusible link in line with power to your starter solenoid. If you aren't sure disconnect your battery ( both cables, neg first ) and use an ohm meter to check for continuity in your main positive battery cable. Did you check to see if you battery will hold a charge? The easiest way to do this is take it to a parts store for a free test. If the battery fails the test it could have been damaged by a faulty voltage regulator. If you take your battery to the shop for a free test might as well take your alternator along at the same time.

The height of the 2008 Jeep Grand-Cherokee is 5 ft. 7.4 in. (67.4 in.).

manual - 4qts MTF

auto (drain and fill) - 4qts ATF

auto (pan off and filter replace) - 8qts ATF

I was trying to find the answer to the following problem. I went on the internet and did a few searches, there were plenty of people with similar problems which they could not find the answer to. This is obviously because nobody took the time to come back and post their findings (gee..thanks for sharing). Since nobody helped me out, I thought I might help others with this frustrating and annoying problem. Keep in mind, this was MY problem, and may not be yours..but for the price below, give it a try. Oil sending unit. Low oil Pressure Problem. 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 150,000mi. The engine sounds and runs as if it has 30,000 miles on it…she’s is t-i-g-h-t. The problem was after driving for longer than about an hour, the oil pressure will drop to zero when coming to a stop. Like in city driving and coming to a light. Or HWY driving and getting off at an exit and coming to a stop or near stop. The oil pressure would suddenly drop from 30psi to zero. The check engine light would come on and a tone would sound. But anything over 2000rpm’s and it is fine. It reads 40+ lbs at 70mph or 2000rpm otherwise. I had this problem for several years, but it was rather intermittent, sometimes not happening for months. I would just shift into neutral and rev. the engine a bit, and up it would swing. I run 10/50w oil being in Florida. I tried switching to 10/30w, it “seemed” to get worse, and of course this was nothing I wanted to experiment with. This problem did not happened on short trips only on longer ones. But recently the problem became a little more frequent I had to investigate since this is a potentially SERIOUS problem. Possible problems were oil pump wear, crank bearings, cam shaft bearings, oil pressure valve and a couple others, but it only did it every now and then….the above would have happened quite a bit more frequently I’m sure. SOoooooo, I decided to inspect the oil pressure sending unit. This is located just above the oil filter, its round, plastic and silver, with two wires running into it, you can’t miss it. I unplugged the wires from it, and low and behold, there was oil there the male/female connectors came together..surely this can’t be right I thought. I shopped around, I got prices of $50.00 for the first two phone calls, and $30 on the 3rd call at AutoZone. Drove home (problem happened again), installed new sending unit in, drove around, noooooo problem !!! I decided to take a hacksaw to the old one to see if and how much oil was in the internal part of the sending unit chamber, or if there was supposed to be any there. I started cutting like a bologna slicer, it was filled with oil. I finally cut right where the plastic and metal join. BINGO, there was a plastic/neoprene gasket in there that is MEANT to separate the oil from the electronic parts. You see, oil is force in the small hole, and then this membrane is supposed to flex and press on the electronic portion giving a reading. The neoprene gasket was leaking!! Problem solved. Ready for another 100k I’ll bet. I had the same problem with mine, first there was an oil leak and it would jerk slightly from between 1500 rpm to 2000 rpm so we taught that this is causing the jeep to jerk so we had that fixed. While the jeep was getting fixed i read this suggestion so i told the shop to check on the oil pressure switch also. The mechanic said he did checked it and every thing looks good. The jeep worked pretty good for a day no more leaks then it stats jerking again the next day. So i decided to bring to another shop and have them diagnose the jeep and found out the the motor mount has gone bad so that was the main problem. Hope this will help you.

It controls the transmission shifts.

It controls the transmission shifts.

The temp control door is on a vertical axis on the Cherokee(XJ), and the control motor is on the bottom of the heater box under the passenger side dash. Check heatertreater.net for pictures and diagnostic information for this system.

Depending on how bad the leak is, not long. You could starve the engine for oil and ruin the engine, and the oil leaking off the engine will get on the rubber front-end parts and cause deteriation.( EX: rubber grommets). Plus it leaves a mess every place you park. Valve cover gaskets are cheap compared to oil!!

You Might have to spray it with some Liquid wrench or something to help losen it up then keep working around it with a pry tool it should come off. Be careful it is only white metal.

The only foolproof way is to remove the starter and bench test it.

find where the area of moisture build up is when the car is started then go from there, check the connections around the heater core also find where the area of moisture build up is when the car is started then go from there, check the connections around the heater core also ***The water pump is driven by the drive belt. The water pump has a "weep" hole that will start leaking when the water pump has reached the end of its useable life. Find the water pump (Has a large radiator hose going up into it, and a large black pulley in front of it) and look for coolant leaking out from underneath that pulley. Don't use any sort of "Leak-Fix" product, once a water pump seal has gone bad, it is not going to get better. Also, leak-fix products can do serious damage to your cooling system and heater core.

well in side of the jeep in the back pull the plastic off and on the left side were the handle is there is a whit leaver pop that to the other side and then pull handle that is what i just did to my moms jeep.

The 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee takes 20" replacement windshield wiper blades on both sides front and an 11" or 12" rear wiper blade.

The first time, I thought it was the oil pressure sending unit, so I replaced it. New sending unit was still reading 80 psi (maxed out). Last night, the engine ground to a halt, despite good maintenance with Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I think the high pressure indicates blockage in the oil system, causing oil starvation somewhere in the engine. I think mine was in the lifter area, because they kept getting louder before the engine failed. High pressure is a big problem, in my experience.

I JUST PUT PADS ON MINE 2 WEEKS AGO..ADVANCE AUTO PARTS HAVE A BRAND THAT COME IN 3 DIFFERENT PRICES..SILVER= 20$ GOLD =30$ & PLATIUM = 40$..I PUT THE SILVER ON FRONT AND BACK..LIFETIME WARRANTY..I SPENT MABE 55$ ON PARTS AND BRAKE CLEANER AND FLUID... TOOK A LITTLE OVER A HOUR....GOOD LUCK!

Yes

There's always the dealer but I'd call your local auto parts stores and ask. well i have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee, and it has only one filter,which is in the gas tank. it doesnt have one on the outside. in order for you to replace the filter you havereplace the fuel pump because the filter is inside the fuel pump. the 1996 models have filters on the outside only.

I just ran across this answer by coincidence yesterday. Depends on what system you have but if you log into http://www.hmaservice.com/authenticator/login?returnAddress=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hmaservice.com%3A80%2Findex.jspthey have all the details on resetting/setting this function.

Do you have a 4.0l (6 cyl) or a 4.7l (V-8). I just changed one on a 2001 with the 4.7L v-8. It is located on the passengers' side behind the starter. on the 4.0 it is located on the top of the bell housing on the drivers side.

drivers side rear behind bumper

Yes, there is a large o-ring and two smaller ones.

Yes, there is a large o-ring and two smaller ones.

The purpose of a leak detection pump pressure switch is to immediately alter the system to pressure drop. These are most commonly associated with seal or valve failure.

That is something that only the dealer can possibly access, depending on your system configuration, and disable using factory equipment to comunicate with the control module. I say "possibly" because it Amy or may not be a fuction tht can be turned off. It depends on the system configuration.

I recently found it necessary to replace '''the rear hatch door '''latch assembly. It had broken and '''there was no way to open '''the rear hatch from '''the inside or outside.

'''The 2001 '''Sequoia sold in 2000 had 89,000 miles and was maintained well. It looks like this plastic part that failed is just a weak design and most or all will fail at some point.

1. You can open '''the rear hatch from '''the outside if you can get '''the small piece of '''the broken lever out of '''the square hole that is on '''the right side of '''the handle grip area. You will need to use a strong piece of wire or a screwdriver type tool with a slight bend on '''the end. '''The lever that pulls on '''the cable that opens '''the '''latch is located above '''the opening in '''the handle grip area, accessed through '''the small square hole. Insert '''the tool that you made and fish around to find '''the cable lever, you will need to have '''the tool pointed up to find '''the lever. Once you find '''the lever pull down to pull '''the lever. Note: make sure that '''the hatch is unlocked or it won't open.

2. If you can't locate '''the lever or can't make it open from '''the outside you will need to do it from '''the inside of '''the vehicle. This isn't fun but it can be accomplished with a little sweat and a few choice words thrown in.

3. You can work from '''the outside of '''the truck at this point, roll '''the rear glass down to give you access. '''The plastic trim pieces on each side of '''the rear glass can de popped off by hand, '''they each have three plastic barbs that hold '''them on. '''Remove '''them carefully and pull straight out to '''remove '''them, this will give you access to '''the large rear piece of plastic trim that covers '''the inside of '''the rear door.

4. '''Remove '''the vinyl pull-strap that is located on '''the rear panel, use a #2 Philips to do this. Now start to '''remove '''the large inside door panel. This panel has '''the rear glass inside rubber anti-rattle blade attached to '''the top of it. (If you were able to open '''the hatch door from '''the outside you can '''remove '''the inside panel by starting at '''the bottom of '''the panel and using a thin blade to lift '''the panel away from '''the door and '''then pop '''the plastic barbs loose, '''then lift it up and off of '''the door sheet-metal.) Starting at one corner, bend out and pull up on '''the panel where it is hooked over '''the top of '''the window opening sheet-metal. It takes a little force to get it started but be persistent, once it is started work towards '''the other end. Once it's loose at '''the top you can reach inside and pop loose '''the plastic barbs that retain '''the panel and '''remove it completely.

5. You now have access to '''the inside of '''the hatch. '''Remove '''the three round rubber grommets, this give you access to '''the '''latch lever that pulls on '''the release cable. Reach inside with a screwdriver push down on '''the lever and you will be able to release '''the '''latch on '''the hatch door and open it.

6. '''There is a white plastic cover covering '''the cable attachment point, '''remove it by pulling down and away from '''the assembly, it clips onto '''the assembly bracket and helps secure '''the cable to '''the lever attachment point. You can now release '''the cable from '''the assembly, '''remove '''the screws holding '''the license plate recess cover and '''the nut holding '''the key cylinder assembly and '''then '''remove '''the cable assembly bracket, (two nuts). Now you can '''remove '''the license plate recess panel and '''the broken '''latch lever assembly that is attached to it as a unit.

7. You can't just purchase '''the ($2.00) plastic piece that broke, '''Toyota will make you purchase '''the entire assembly, $63.00. By '''the way I shopped around and got three different estimates from '''Toyota Dealers, ranging from $280 to $360 to do this job. This first repair took me seven hours because I didn't know what I was doing, I spent 3 hours just attempting to open '''the hatch, I could do it now in about two hours. ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''

Under the hood on the passenger side towards the back of the engine compartment.

You can not. You might get lucky and find one on EBay or something or maybe at a junkyard but there is no such thing as a free lunch. I would buy an aftermarket repair manual for the Jeep. Chiltons and Haynes both make them for a very modest sum and theyre accurate and more detailed by far than the original owners manual. Libraries usually have them in their reference section and you can read them for free.