Kia Rio

WHAT engines can i put in a 01 Rio i wanna put a new engine tranny in but still want to stay in good gas millage

how to remove the gas tank on a 2003 kia Rio

In answer to your question on interchanging hoods between 359 and 379 model Peterbilts, I would have to believe you can. Of course, that is providing the two trucks are either both standard or both extended hood variants and are of close to the same year (older Pete's had intake ducts coming from under the hood ahead of the air cleaner canisters, causing a notched hood like on a Kenworth W-900 to clear the ducting). The 379's and 359's were built using the same platform, with only a few specific differances. For example, the 359 had an embroidered quilted pattern on the interior door panels with a few western-like designs around it, where as the 379 had pretty much the same door panels that it did until the end of it's production. There were other slight differances to the exterior, such as primary reserve air tank location ( 379- under cab above battery box/ steps, 359- normally ahead of battery box or fuel tank, where the air dryer is located on the later model 379's). None of these differances however effect the hood itself. The dimentions and the mounting are the same. I have owned two 379's in the past and I now own a 1984 359 ext. hood which I restored to original factory specs using many 379 parts in fact, though the hood, as it were, was in good shape. My current project is a 1984 362 Pete cabover, and believe it or not, the doors and many other parts are the same as a 379 as well. It only made good business sense to make so many parts interchangable between models. It was not intended to be conveniant for us, but to lower production cost, rather than having to build everything separate per model. Good luck with your project and I hope I was of some help. -Brandon

the answer is NO. you may have no problem setting the front pins in the hindge, but the rear of these hoods vary. first, the 359 has cut outs where the air breather tubes lead into the engine compartment, the 379 does not have these. second, the lower part of the hood, near the back of the fender, though they look similar, each has a different configuration of supports to hold the back of the hood. if you love your peterbilt as i do mine, you will put the appropriate hood on it. after all, it is a peterbilt. my info comes from owning a 1987 359 ( #9 of the 359 made that last year) and a 1988 379exhd. hope this helps. outlaw379

(the answer is no) correct outlaw but it's not intake hoses or like branded talked about battery boxes,interior desine. the 379 cab was a new desine the cab is about 8" wider the ultra cab was wider and taller yet. it's nice you guy's can point the stuff that's out in the open, and knowledge on where air tanks and fuel tanks are and the battery box's are but simple answer to a simply question is no 379 hood is to WIDE. if you own a 359 then you know the joke about why there is no u in peterbilt..........there is no room for u and i. skbtrans

no no no you might as well try to hammer a mack hood on your pete! as for as the size of the cab on a 359...if she won't fit between the seats you don't want her under your sheets!!!!!

"yes 2002 kia Rio engine is interference engine.you need to replace timing belt at 60000 miles or maybe a bit longer. mine broke at 97000 and bent 12 valves got lucky head was not damaged still $1200 to repair!!!!!"

I highly recommend following your maintenance schedule when it comes to timing belts TO THE LETTER. As the previous author noted, what would have been a $400 job turned into a $1200 repair.

underneath the car on the left side drivers side just before the rear wheel.

Wow, you really need a kia Haynes manual for the pictures,, but here goes.

1. remove two bolts and two nuts from cyl. head trim cover (10mm).

remove cover.

2. Remove air intake duct-it's the long squarish plastic tube that starts in front of the battery and connects to the air filter box at the firewall-

1 bolt at radiator support (top, front), 1 nut at drivers fender.

loosen clamp at air filter box (all 10 mm).

remove duct

3. un-snap 8 air filter cover latches, remove air filter cover and filter.

Remove two nuts lower front of air filter box and two bolts at backside of box (12mm)

Loosen upper clamp at throttle body(10mm)

remove two hose clamps and two hoses from drivers side end of valve cover. (just pinch the clamps and slide them an inch or so back down the hose)

remove wire retainer clip from electrical connector on filter box above the throttle body clamp (pull straight out with pliers or pop free with a screw driver blade- the wire clip is like a "C" or three sides of a square),

disconnect wire connector from component.

remove filter box while guiding hose free of cover.

4. remove small hose from "Y" fitting at intake manifold behind fuel rail. be gentle the hose fitting is sometimes plastic

5. Remove two nuts from fuel rail (12mm)

remove wire retaining clips from electrical connectors

remove connectors from injectors-push wire harness toward the firewall, out of the way

gently wiggle rail with injectors back and forth, left and right, while pulling out of intake manifold. (warm, not hot engine makes it easier. fuel rail is polycarbonate plastic DO NOT FORCE OR PRY!!! work it free-be patient- it'll come. rotating the injectors slightly back and forth before pulling helps sometimes too)

6. remove retaining clips from injectors. TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT HOW THESE LOCK TOGETHER!!!

twist, turn and wiggle injectors free of rail,

make sure the o-ring is not left behind in the fuel rail for each injector

7. reassemble in opposite order. injectors and rail re-install best as an assy.

don't forget the injector retaining clips or the rail will pop off of them and break, spraying the whole engine compartment with gasoline for as long as the ignition is on and the fuel pump is running. possible fire.

lubricate the o-rings and sockets on injectors, intake manifold and fuel rail to aid reassembly---motor oil or transmission fluid only--NO liquid wrench or WD40!!(attacks the fuel rail material)

even pressure and some wiggling gets the injector w/the o-ring back into it's socket-DO NOT try to pry or press the o-ring into the sockets with any tool--the o-rings will get nicks and leak.

the injectors do not go all the way in as far as you can push them into the rail. they only need to be about 1/3-1/2 of the way in for the slits on the sides of the injectors to line up with the retaining clips and the clips to engage the ridge around the rail socket

might be bad motor mount / or electrical short

Throw it away. Stop buying stuff from South Korea and putting Americans out of jobs.

The ultimate choice for any car would be a fully synthetic, Grade 30 or less and a "XW" less than 20W.But a synthetic blend with SJ or SL rating will also do the job rather nicely.

Don't do it if you don't have any exprerience. You take your Kia to a mechanic man to do that job for your safety

20 ft lbs while spinning the drum, then loosen enough to move the thrust washer with your fingers without a screwdriver or other tool. It should be slight loose to the touch.

with alot of expirience :)

You have to remove the plastic cover on top of the engine and you will see 4 ignition coils with snap plugs on them, pull out on the little black tab and gently disconnect the snap plug. Remove the wires from the coil and the one bolt that holds the ignition coil down. Then just pull up on the ignition coil and the plugs are under them straight down the center of the engine..

Will a 1.6l engine from a 2006 kia rio with a Automatic Transmission bolt up to a 2005 kia rio with a Manual Transmission, and work with the wiring harness on the 2005?

If I am not mistaken a manual or 5 speed transmission doesn't have transmission fluid.

kia Rio is a non adjustable valve train, and in my opinion is a disposable junk car. sorry that is just my opinion. swaylick anch ak

This information was borrowed from another question. However, it answers this question as well: "There is a small wire clip shaped like an "ohm" sign or the "omega" symbol. picture a horse shoe w/ hips... anyway take something flat like a butter knife or somthing similar and pry gently between the window crank and the door panel and try to see it w/ a flashlight. once you see it you can determine wich way to push it off, one side @ a time. Or you could go to the parts store , in the help section and get the inexpensive tool made for this task. while there you may go ahead and get some spare clips, because sometimes they come off quickly and are difficult to locate afterward. plus it helps to know what they look like. Most window handles are held on in this manner although some fords simply have a screw in the middle under some sort of cover or moulding. Hope this helps".

need to find out what is the spindle nut torque specification for a 2001 KIA RIO

Check your owner's manual. It depends really on your location (the temperature), and the "upcoming" season you will be driving in (think, the next three months). I always get 5W-20 in mine, but have also heard 10W-30, and 5W-30 will work too. Check your owner's manual though... I always go with the bargain brand from Walmart, superTech - as long as the viscosity, weight, ILSAC, and API Service rating _meet_ or exceed what's recommended, you are in the clear.

on modern cars the fuel system is unvented. The evap purge and vent solenoid goes to a charcoal canister. When the vehicle is off the fuel tank is connected to the charcoal canister through the P/V solenoid and it absorbs the vented gas fumes from the tank. When the vehicle is on and at speed the solenoid switches and the charcoal canister is connected to engine vacuum and the vacuum of the engine purges the gas fumes in the charcoal through the engine burning them

Underneath the black engine cover. You will need to remove it - it has three screws. The plugs are in-line, below the cover, at the termination of the wires. They are rather deeply embedded from there.

Yes. It is located under the breather box for the air intake.

(Crank pointer up .Number one cylinder up) ... Intake cam marked with an ( I) Exhaust cam Marked with an (E) Both up To marks on cover

There are two 10 mm bolts that hold the head light in. By taking these two bolts out you should be able to remove the headlight unit. Once that is out on the back there is a black cover that you twist off when this is removed you will see the back of the bulb. Holding this is is a silver colored wire it should release off the one side if not just take the screws off and your bulb should release. Unplug the wire harness put in the new bulb and replce everything back the way you found it.