Mazda 323

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White smoke from the exhaust is a symptom of coolant entering the combustion chamber. Normally this is a sign of a blown head gasket or cracked head. This is a very serious situation that must be repaired immediately. You must STOP driving this vehicle or you will cause serious engine damage.

In the gas tank. There's an access hatch located under the rear seat.

no

Try a 1988 323

Yes, all B2000 models until 89 where carbureted. After 89 Mazda stopped production in the United States on this model.

The firing order on the Mazda sting 323 2001 model is 1-3-4-2. And the ditributor rotates anti-clockwise.

It's in the center of the dash. First, you must remove the driver's side instrument trim, then the center section. You then need to unscrew the cluster that contains the "check-engine" light, check brakes, etc. and pull it out far enough to get your hands in just above it. The horn relay is to the right of center. You'll need both hands to release the clips and to pull the old one out. For a $12 part, it's a pain in the you know what, but at least you'll have a functioning horn. Note: be sure to keep all of the screws in order, as some are of different legths and heads. Also be very careful with the plastic bezels, as they are very fragile. Good luck

This is a fairly simple repair operation, but best performed with a helper to hold the hatch open. There are two bolts holding the bottom bracket, and a ball joint bolt at the top. It's easiest to unbolt the ball joint bolt at the top first, then lay the strut down toward the tailight out of the way to remove bottom bracket bolts. It's best to replace both struts at the same time, if one is worn out then so is the other likely to be, and it's hard to figure out which one is weaker anyway. They cost less than $50 each from Mazda which is cheap insurance. Try to buy replacement struts that come with the ball joint bolt already attached, as it is very difficult to remove the ball from the strut on original equipment if you need to reuse it. Some aftermarket struts used to come this way, but they may not be as strong as the OEM equipment from Mazda (as I found out on a 1986 Mazda 323 - rear window washer/wiper option required a heavier duty unit). But you can recover the ball joint bolt from the old strut with a little extra effort, and a hack saw or dremel tool to saw through the strut socket head at several angles until the ball can be pulled from the socket. Hold the strut in a bench vise, especially if you are using a hacksaw. You can pry off partially cut through pieces with a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. NOTE - Be careful not to saw into the ball or damage it's surface so that it can still articulate smoothly in the socket of the new strut. Be sure to wipe it clean as it's likely to be coated in old grease and fine metal filings from normal wear and tear. Fortunately it is very easy to install the ball into the socket of the new strut. They come already greased with a bigger opening and spring clip to hold the ball in the socket once it's inserted. Just push it into place, no tools required for this step. Now reinstall the new struts in the reverse order of the steps above. Be careful to identify which is right and left before bolting in place. (Check that the ball joint bolt at top is facing toward the hatch). Tighten bolts snug but don't overtighten or you could strip the threads. Your new struts should hold the hatch firmly open. If not, you probably have the wrong parts.

There are both fuses and relays in two different places. Both are black plastic boxes where you just lift the top off to get to the stuff inside.

One in the engine compartment , left hand side, between the battery and the air filter, that has the stuff to run the engine (ignition, fuel pump and such). The other is below the dashboard, in front of the driver (out by the door). Those run "everything else" (interior/exterior lights, power windows, radio, the lot...). They are reasonably well labelled, so depending on what "doesn't work", you should be able to figure out wich fuse or relay needs replacing.

on a Mazda 323f the radiator drain plug is at the front left bottom corner of the radiator as you look towards the bonnet, it needs to be opened with a Phillips head screwdriver, the plug itself looks more like a screwhead and as such may not be recognisable at first

55ltr

The problem is with the brake light switch which is located underneath the dashboard attahched to the pedal support bracket. It is either broken or needs adjusting so that the plunger is fully depressed when the pedal is in it's normal resting position.

Cheers Malcolm

That being said, if you replaced the bulbs recently and afterwards is when you noticed the problem check the bulb numbers and make sure that they are 1157's because even though they might look identical there are a fe different types of bulbs, some of which can, in this situation, touch both relay contacts causing your problem.

Check out: http://robert.aitchison.org/tiki-page.php?pageName=Mazda3+DIY+Oil+Change

Owner's manual. Look at the fuse box, there 7 rows of three fuses; the third row down from, the top at the back (closest to the firewall) should be the 15A "Tail" (tailight fuse). If the problem are the stop lights, top row centre, 20A. Cheers Malcolm

This is a big ugly job. I recommend using a shop manual to assist with the job. First disconnect the battery, then drain the coolant. Next you will need to remove the dashboard (instrument panel). There are several mounting points on top (3), sides (2) and around the centre (6 or 9), glovebox (4). You will aslo need to remove the steering wheel, drop the panel underneath the steering column, remove the vent cross tube, then drop the column (held in place with 4 nuts). The instrument cluster needs to be removed (5 screws hold the facia or trim bezel); rememebr to disconnect the speedometer cable). Also, disconnect the heater control cables from the heater box control arms (they should snap out). Once the complete dashboard has been removed you now have access to the heater box. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater pipes underneath the hood. If the hoses have never been done before, you may have to cut the hoses off, as the rubber may have bonded to the brass tubes. The heater box is bolted to the firewall with 4 bolts. Once the bolts are unscrewed you should be able to pull the heater box out. The box is held together with U shaped spring clips that can be pried off. The temeprature control valve is located on the left side of the box and should be removed prior to taking the box apart. The heater core can then be slid out of the heater box and repaired or replaced as required. You need at least 5 hours for the removal and 6 hours for the re-installation. Good luck! Malcolm

For my '88 RX7 there are a few fuse boxes. The main fuse panel is inside the car under the steering wheel. It should be tucked up under the left side. Other fuse panels are under the hood. I think there are only 2 or 3 other ones under the hood. The fuse panel inside the car handles all of ur lights and electronic stuff. The fuse panels under the hood mostly deal with just motor related. Hope this helps.

all you have to do is unscrew the cable from the top of your transmission, then from behind tbe actuall speedo

Yes

your mass air flow sensor is outta wack or your oxygen sensor... your mass air flow sensor is outta wack or your oxygen sensor...

at the bottom of the radiator, just put some pliers on it and turn, it will start to drain out so make sure that you have something to catch it all in.

well it depends on your year, and if it is an lx dx, or es. The lx and dx for 1995-1998 protege's are 13" stock. The es i believe is 14". If you are looking to put new rims on the protege, the biggest ive seen go on a protege was about 17" but that might even be close to rubbing.

you can't, the immoboliser is prt of the injection computor, which you cannont by pass

Where can I find the fuel pump relay on a 2000 mazda 323

the camshaft, is most likely 180 degrees off, if you, sett the crankshaft, to tdc pos, then you take off, the timing belt, and rotate, the camshaft 180 degrees, and asemble it, i