Mazda Protege

4 in a 90-94

your brake master cylinder serves as your slave cylinder resevior. If either your master or slave clutch cylinders are going bad, it may not do any good to try to adjust them. But the slave cylinder has a bleeder screw and the process of bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding the brakes. In short, open the bleeder screw when clutch is being pressed, and close it when clutch is fully pressed. Have a tube on the bleeder screw going into a jar of brake fluid so you can see bubbles coming out of the slave. The slave is mounted on the bottom of the transmission and the master clutch cylinder is on the firewall behind and below the battery, it has a tube that goes to the lower right rear of the master brake cylinder reservoir to get it's fluid supply.

Next to the master brake cly.

ok so your rear deck is going to have to come off.

1. you have to put down both seats

2. you should see about 6 little plastic screw like pieces you pop out the inner part of them and then pull out the rest of the piece

then go in your truck and look up and you should see 3 Orange clips and squeeze them with pliers then go ahead and pull up on your rear deck and pull toward the front of the car and it should come out but be careful as the rear brake light will have a plug in it and you need to make sure you unplug it or you could damage your wiring harness

then you should see your speakers with 4 screws unscrew them and then they come out you have to disconnect your speakers wires and then put in your new speakers and cut the speakers wire and solder on your new speakers.

10W 30, 5W30 in >32 degree constant weather (winter up north). On a car that old, I'd go with something slightly heavier unless you've had your engine rebuilt recently - 10W40 would be smarter IMO

The module is located behind the center console, right in the middle behind the radio and everything on the carpet behind it all.

Remove the power steering belt first then the alternator belt will go on.

1: remove the negative battery cable. 2: Unscrew the mud guard under the fog light and bumper and push it back. 3: push the entire assembly out, by pushing in the metal 'pins' on the side of the housing one at a time. 4: When the assembly is pulled out, there are two screws that you'll need to unscrew at the back of the assembly. Often these screws are rusty, and can easily be stripped. You may need to treat with wd40 and leave for a while. You may also want to consider buying new screws to replace. 5: Pull out the bulb and replace. Try not to handle the bulb by the glass, but rather by the metal. 6. Replace assembly and all screws. This isn't a quick and easy replacement like other bulbs, and may take a surprisingly long time. Allow a few hours if its your first time attempting.

Yes, under the car looking from the bottom up towards the left you'll see the bolt that connects to the transmissions pan.

There is no stick on a manual transmission, you check the fluid with the fill plug

Hi, the pump is held in with three Allen head screws, loosen them then rotate the pump to take the tension out of the timing belt. , Johnno

You want to worry about putting the timing belt back on and getting the timing right before you think about removing the pump ! If your not an experienced DIY, don't do it.

As you face the front of the car the plug is located on the back of the radiator, toward the bottom, closest to the passenger side. It is large, white and plastic. In order to see it you need to crawl under the car and look at the back of the radiator. The manual tranny version has a flathead nut, the auto has a phillips. The nut is also like a wing nut that you could twist with your fingers if you can fit them in there. Good luck!

i need to change my alternator belt and don't know where the tension wheel is so i can take off the other belt to replace the alternator belt on my 94 Mazda protege 1.6l

remove neg cable remove sensor that is located on top of alternator, move to one side still connected. remove power and reg cables on alt. loosen tension bolt remove bolt at bottom of alt. can do it from top behind alt. rewmove tension bolt and belt,work altr loose thru top between gas line and sensor that you moved, replace the same way

The owners manual should have a fuse box diagram. If you don't have one, try MOTORLIT.COM

Presume that you have Ac & power steering, w/o AC is similar. 1. Drive car onto ramp. 2. Under the car, remove dirtguard underneath Ac compressor.(10mm bolts) 3. Outside the car (right front wheel), look through wheelwell between AC compressor & power steering you will see 14mm nut that lock tension bolt, loosen it couple turns. 4. Loosen tension bolt (12mm) as necessary. 5. From top of car, loosen top power steering bolt (14mm). (I use magnetic pickup to help put 14mm socket through hole in pulley of power steering pump.) 6. Now you can move power steering pump & take out serpentine belt. 7. Loosen alternator bottom bolt (14mm) & tension bolt (12mm) to take out v-belt.

Secondly... for those of you who have a 1994-1997 Mazda Protege with A/C, and your AC compressor has seized up (breaking the belt in the process).... you can actually bypass the A/C!!! Just pick up the belt that is meant for Mazda Protege's that did not come with A/C.

The Autozone guys told me it wouldn't work, but I just finished putting one on with the outstanding directions listed above!

I'm assuming your question is asking how to take off the door panel of a Mazda protege.

That answer is simple. There is a screw behind door handle opener. Unscrew it. There are two screws under the door handle. Lift it off and unscrew them. When you open the door, you will see a cap, take this off. There is also another cap on the side of the door panel, tear this off and say goodbye to it. There may be more hidden screws, but I don't remember. Lift the door upwards to unhatch it from the top. Slowly start to pull it off, but not all the way. Unhook the electrical stuff, then you're good.

Open the rear hatch, remove the 2 screw on the side of the taillight lens and carefully pull towars u, dont worry u wont brake it, but just be carefull, if u like just find a smal screwdrive and a shop rag and pry the coners that rap aroundby fenderwell that is where the push pins are located one on top and one on the bottom

The same procedure applies for both the front and rear rotors of the 2001 Mazda Protege. I did this a while back, so minute details might escape me at this time, but the procedure should be fairly simple, although there are some safety concerns to account for during the procedure, like the possibility of damage to the brake lines, or the probability of the brakes not working for the first several applications. If you feel you might screw something up, or just would feel safer having a professional handle it, then please do so, otherwise, this should guide you in your endeavour:

1.- Remove the wheel (I'll just go ahead and assume anybody knows how to do that).

2.- The caliper has 2 attaching points (1 on top, 1 on bottom) accessible from behind -- remove both attaching points and slide the caliper off the rotor (your choice if you want to support it with somehow, or let it dangle and risk damaging the line).

3.- I'll just assume that you have not changed the rotor previously, since you are asking how to do it, so get ready to beat the living hell out of the rotor because it will most likely have seized to the bearing hub -- eventually, it will release its death-grip and you will be able to continue (Remember, it releases outwards, so hit the inner portion of the rotor -- but not the hub).

4.- Back to the caliper, remove the pads (press in, one at a time, until you can remove each pad -- remember to note which pad had the wear indicator) and retract the pusher (This one is tricky, it had me worried for a minute, but you need to push it back as far as it goes, and then, screw it in the rest of the way, otherwise, your new pads will not clear the rotor), then install the new pads -- remember to anti-seize.

5.- Put the new rotor in (wouldn't hurt to anti-seize), holding it by hand (in a generally straight fashion), and reinstall the caliper back to where it came from -- the caliper and pads will hold your new rotor until you put back the wheel assembly.

6.- Install your wheel back on your vehicle.

7.- Do not forget to seat your new pads, for which you will need to brake several times with the vehicle in motion (it's some pretty hard braking, I might add, just don't lock the wheels), taking care to remember that for the first few brake applications, there may not be any response, so do this in a very open area. You will repeat the procedure until your wear pattern on your rotor is even (it will look like random scratches at first, but then it will fill-in to make a smooth wear mark about the size of the pad).

Hope this helps,

Jonn

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This year Mazda protege does not have a serpentine belt. It has two belts, one for the alternator/water pump, and the other for the power steering and a/c.

chances are if its on the passenger side of the engine then its your alternator...good luck doing it yourself...just did mine and its a major pain in the rear to get the old one out and the new one in due to limited space and all the other components in the way...

02 protege5,2.0 inside the tranny ,they're 4 or 5.

I have a 2003 Mazda Protegae 5, 4 door hatchback.

I believe that the engine is a 2.0 litre (NO TURBO)

I had the same problem and browsing the internet so did almost

every other Protegae 5 owner. After some hunting and searching

on the internet I found that the problem had to do with the EGR Valve

(EXAUST GAS RECIRCULATION VALVE) It's part of the emmisions system.

My car had @ 46,000 km on it, and I was told that Mazda would not warranty this!

I was a GM mechanic for 9 years and EGR valves are part of the emmisions.

I live in Ontario, Canada and every few years we have to go and have our

exhaust emission's were within specs.

When I went to Mazda for this test I also complained about the horrible way

the car ran. I told the service manager about this, he said he would look into it for me.

When I returned later that day I paid my bill for the Emission test, and to my

surprise they had replaced the EGR with a new changed up version.

The Manager told me that if a customer complained about the poor engine idle and

bucking during accelerating, they would fix it under warranty. Great!!

From what I gathered this is what we called a hidden warranty coverage, (IT'S WHAT WE CALLED IT AT THE DEALER) Sneaky way to work, but I'm happy!

Pass this on, and good luck..... Mazda Owner...

if is bank 1 it will it the 1000 from the dealer because is a direc fit but if is bank 2 could be 200 or 250 and any muffler shop can replace it