take off the speaker covers on the dash, take out the speakers, remove the bolt from each of the speaker spots. In the middle piece where the two vents are need to come out. Pop out the vents, its kind of tricky so be careful, once you got that done, move attention to the thing that toggles the airflow (you know it shuts off the air completely) on the little nob there is this plastic piece covering the metal piece, just joust it off with your flat head screwdriver. when you move the vent opener in and out you can see in there that there is an Allen wrench hole. then remove the screws that hold the black plastic piece in. then pull her out. you will notice that you can get the instrunment clusture out when you pull. don't. then get the side vents out. pop out the vents then on the inside of the vent housing, you will see some little clasps that hold the vent in. just stick your flat head in and try and pop em out once you got that done you can pull those out. on the drivers side you also have the back dome light switch unplug that so you can get the vent housing out. underneath the glove box there are some Phillips head screws holding in a plastic cover piece. take em out then pull out the cover piece. then there is a bolt all the way to the right that serves as the main bolt pretty much, theres one on the drivers side too. its covered by the door when its closed so open the door and you will see it. on the other side there are these plastic pieces underneath the stearing wheel that cover the screws that hold in the cover piece, just get your flat head in there to pop em out they are easy. then unscrew the screws and take out the main bolt holding the dash on. the cover piece will just hang down but its enough for you to unscrew it. these main bolts are on the side of the dash I hope im clear. Then get the glove box insert out. open the box and clear all your crap out. then there are some little things that hold it in. get your flat head and pop those out not too hard. then pull out the glove box. make sure you let the light hang in through the hole into the glove box. I hope that's it. its pretty much the same thing getting it back in just be careful, I have an 88 and all the little plastic pieces are easy to break, yours is pry worse.

Remove the inside door panel from your Mercedes-Benz. Remove the wiring harness from the window motor. Remove the window motor linkage. Remove the window motor retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new window motor.

any diesel is hard to start when cold. your diesel should have a block heater somewhere. find the plug in and when vehicle is parked,plug the cord into a 110 outlet.that should solve your problem. this is all explained in your owners handbook. To add to this answer: Most diesel engines work off a set timer (they don't know the difference between -20 and plus 20 degrees) of around 15sec. A very popular solution used in Canada is to have the timer bypassed to a switch. The best type of switch to use is called a MOMENTARY, it only activates the plugs with your finger on the switch. Not touching the switch the plugs will work normally, but when you hold the switch on it will continue to run as long as you want (I know Toyota Landcrusiers glow plugs can run for a minute with no problems to the plugs. A shop that installs automatic car starters would be the best place to have the custom switch installed due to their common contact with the various vehicle wiring (not a dealership).

depending on year..... (fuel injection)cold start valve not working try removing it and clean it with carb cleaner if it dont work replace it. (carburettor when cold only) choke not working undo the 3 small screws holdong the choke mechanism to the carb turn the choke unit so the tension on the brass butterfly tightens (at top of carb primary venturi) but not too much if the butterfly is already shut speed up the choke idle speed located behind and to the rear of the choke mechanism. damp in ignition system ( but this would usuall cause running problems too) remove distributor cap dry inside with a rag and spray wd40 or water repellant and refit cap.. also spray around spark plugs and coil, but remember to dry first cos wd4o can trap the damp inside added by bheilers: you also might consider checking the OVPR (overvoltage Protection Relay) located on the firewall in the engine compartment behind the batter on most models. It would either have 2 10 amp fuses on the top or if its a aftermarket brand, would have a single 10amp fuse. Check the fuse(s) if they or it is blown replace and try starting the car again. the OVPR is a common issue with the 190 and 300 series MB's

YOU WILL REQUIRE A SPECIAL CORE DRILL, MADE EXCLUSIVELY FOR MERCEDES, THIS WILL STRIP THE OUTER RING OF THE HARDPLATE FRONT, ONCE THIS IS REMOVED THEN THE REST OF THE IGNITION CAN BE REMOVED THE SAME AS NORMAL, I.E. : INSERT WIRES INTO PROBE HOLES AND RELEASE. I HAVE A G REG 190E TO DO TOMORROW (SAT 7th JAN), THE TOOL COSTS OVER A

It should be color coordinated. There should be 4 of 2 set wires (8 wire together) for the speakers. Each set should be the same color except one is the color with a stripe. That tells you the positive and negative cables going to the speakers. Then after you wire the harness to the speakers, connect the Battery and Remote lines.

If the key is the cut Blade type key, it is worn.... try the spare key. If the newer key does not turn then the lock cylinder is worn... get it replaced ASAP before you get stuck somewhere.

Also try rocking the steering wheel while turning the key... maybe the steering wheel lock is loading the release pin making it hard to turn the key.

Never put the blade type key on a big keyring with a dozen other keys hanging from it!!! The ignition lock cylinder will be damaged resulting in the key not turning.

Try a lock lubricant in the lock cylinder to help the lock mechanism turning.

Good Luck...

try here i have had GREAT luck with them benzautoparts.com

Two pumps. Both are located under the car near the fuel tank. They are found under a removable cover.

Hope this helps.

This information can be obtained from the official Mercedez Benz site.

Start by removing the silver brace on the lock side held by 2 screws. Next you have to unscrew the window latch on top. there is another screw underneath that is sometimes concealed as a manufacturers warranty type deal. Its important to note that the entire door is held together by small white clips and they can easiily be poped off ans lost, my suggestion is when it comes time to take it off have do it in a place where you can see everything that falls off incidentally. Unless you want to crack your wood pannel be carefull with it. If you pull up the metal handle and use a flathead you will revail a screw behind a thin peice of plastic. Unscrew that and get ready to remove the arm rest. There are three screws holding the arm rest one big on e located behind the thin plastic one that you'll need a pretty long Philips for and a third that will be obvious when the others are removed. You will have to tug on the panel. If the wodgran is glued on tight for watever reason try to work around that.

After the pannel is off then there are three screws holding the motor on. I wasted an entire day removing the whole brace and ended up putting the whole thing back together but if you get a socket wrench and feel for these three screws you will save yourself a lot of heart ache. One more tip is make sure you don't knock out the lights from the door panel you could put the whole door back together only to discover there is a wire in there that could mess you quite bad. Test the motor by pluging the two wires in and starting up the car and pressing the window from the center control unit in order not to waste time on a busted replacement getting the panel off is the trickiest part so don't do it twice if you don't have to. You may have to use a crowbar or something to get the pressure off the motors gears though. And finally don't let the glass sip down on your fingers. But I have found it is easier to work on this while it is up FYI. Good Luck!!!

You don't. Mercedes is about the only place that can get it. It takes a couple hours and special tools.

I know. I've had it happen to me on my 190D

back passanger side of engine.... by the fire wall.... remove the stabilizer bar and stick you hand down there with the car off and cold and you will feel a cap that you twist off and there is your resivor...

This is due mostly due to oxyzen sensor. replace it and it should be fine.

underneath the hood, in the engine compartment you'll find the the fuse block, containing all the car's fuses and some relays...I believe its located in the left side near the fire wall. There is a big plastic cover, held in place by a flop clasp. That clear plastic cover shows what each fuse and relay are for. If your car doesn't have one of these covers, I suggest you get one immediately, otheriwise there will be a corrosion problem. I hope this answers your question DM

By adding coolant to the overflow reservoir, if it does not turn off when at the proper level the sensor is most likely faulty.

enter code 11122, that should work. I needed the radio code for my 1992 Mecedes 190E, after the battery had been disconnected, so I called the dealer, who gave me the 4 digit code over the phone, no charge. I called and the code they gave me was shorter for a 190e it is 1133

Two answers that may apply: Electronic Power Control(traction) or Electronic Polution Control in other vehicles.

you need a good manual (haynes is fine) for this job. i could try to explain it but even after seeing the photos and drawings in the manual i had to take it apart to understand.

short version: remove instrument panel; remove kick panel above driver's legs; remove steering wheel; remove plastic trim cover behind steering wheel under steering column. turn key to 1st (ACC) position and THEN reaching through instrument panel opening, pull wiring harness off back of switch. through instrument panel opening, remove pinch bolt in clamp holding ignition lock to steering column. press and hold spring loaded button that was hidden under clamp and wiggle lock assembly away from column slightly. pry off trim ring around where the key goes in the lock. make sure key is again at 1st position, then stick 2mm dia wires into the 2 little holes opposite each other in rim around keyhole. pull out lock tumbler with key. rotate entire ignition lock assembly as required and pull away from steering column. reach through key opening in dash and pull off electrical connection as it becomes visible. pull vacuum hoses off lock assembly on left. you will swear the assembly won't fit past to come out but it will, barely.

I came across this problem on my dads '87 190e 2.6. To remove the barrel assembly it is necessary to be able to turn the key to the first position to insert the U shaped 2mm wire, however, if the steering lock is jammed up it is NOT possible. The only solution we could find is to cut the assembly in half where the 3 rivets hold the steering lock bolt and ignition barrel/switch parts together with a junior hacksaw and completely replace the unit.

doesnt have one for that, only check engine, low oil, washer fluid, low coolant, break pads sensor, e-brake, high beam.

The hood release lever on your '89 190e is on the left kick panel and just under the lower edge of the dash.

Doug

When you have tripped the release lever inside the Car the hood/bonnet will kick up about an inch, next you need to go round to the front of the Car and you will see a black nylon 'T' shaped tab sticking out of the front of the chromium grill.

So you need to pull this tab out and hold it out as you start to lift the hood up and a neat trick here that not everyone knows about, is when you get the hood up have a look at the hydraulic strut that supports it and half way up you will notice a spring type clip.

If you pull this clip out so that it no longer engages in the slot in the strut, you can actually lift the hood up even higher to a near vertical position, which is very handy if you need full access to the engine.

To get the hood to go down again you need to press the button (normally red in colour) on the hinge where the base of the bonnet is attached to the car, while pulling the hood down to its normal hood half way up position.

Then pull back the spring clip on the hydraulic strut, like you did when lifting the hood right up and hold this spring clip out of its slot while you pull the hood right down.

A final push down on the front edge of the hood will lock it in place and the black 'T' shaped nylon tab in the front of the grill will then disappear out of sight, until the next time you release the hood.

John T

The doors on most Mercedes in the 1990's operate by air pressure caused from a vacuum pump. If you have no suction, first begin checking the air/vacuum lines themselves for leaks. If this does not work, consider taking it to your local mechanic or dealer for pump replacement.