Mitsubishi 3000 GT

I had a broken stud on the rear drivers side hub and all I did was I took the tire off, took the rotor/drum off, tapped the broken stud out and used a little brute force and ignorance to get the new one in. Then I took a lug nut, tightened it just enough to get it seated in it's hole, took the nut off, put the tire on, and torqued it to spec. Try it out, it might work for you to without having to disassemble the entire rear wheel assembly.

If there is no dip stick then there will only be a fill hole either on top or the tranny or the side. You will have to pull that out and put a piece of wire in it to check it.

I just had my clutch replaced in my 3000GT VR4 Spyder, which is the turbo and has the 4wheel steering and AWD so it is extremely tight in there. That is an actual quote from my mechanic. Anyway to replace the clutch with Mitsubishi parts and have the flywheel turned was $1300.00.

My point is that if it cost me that much for my extremely hard to work on tranny then it should be less for yours. My best recommendation would be to go to www.cartalk.com and look for the section that lists mechanics that have gotten good reviews from people like you and I. The list can be searched to find a mechanic in your area that has proven to be both reliable and knowledgeable. If you do that you might be able to find a few in your area and then it would come down to who gives you the best price.

the idle jet in the carb is blocked and needs to be cleaned out and reset

The computer in your vehicle controls idle (base and curb). When the battery was disconnected the computer lost memory of the set idle. The car needs to re-learn the idle specs, sometimes can be done by driving for around 15-20 minutes. If not you will need to see a mitsu dealer and have a multi scanner hooked up to reset the idle.

If IAT means intake air temp sensor then it is in the box at the air filter along with the baro sensor. hopes that helps mike Mikes right It is located on the Air cleaner cover. It can be checked by disconnecting it and then with a meter set to ohms measure resistance between terminals 5 and 6 at 32 degrees Fahrenheit the reading should be 6.0 at 68 degrees 2.7 and 176 degrees 0.4 The sensor measures the intake air temp in the air cleaner so that it may indicate a temperature different from outside air depending on engine operating state. To check harness use ohm meter also put positive lead on 5 pin in connector other lead to ground ,if there is continuity its ok if not repair harness. Next Place positive lead in pin 6, other lead to ground. switch ignition to on for this one. Should read 4.5-4.9 volts if not repair harness Hope this helps Ray

please revert with the email address for Mitsubishi motors Japan as I have a complain that I would like to deliver to them

Weld center diff and remove front ring gear.

Remove front axles.

has been done.

absolutely, if you first convert the engine to run a turbo, and that would include replacing your 4spd automatic with a manual gearbox, considering the automatic transmission that come with the sl & base models could barely handle the v6 engine alone. I would assume adding another 10lbs of boost would probably burn it up pretty quick. personally i would recommend selling your sl for a vr4 model, considering the price for the conversion would probably be more expensive than just selling the sl and buying a vr-4, but hey it's your money, not mine.

Above is 100% correct just to push the point further here is a list of parts needed to swap:

-Turbos from a VR4, either the TD04 9b's or TD04 13G's with wastegate actuators

-Both intercooler and all piping associated

-Exhuast manifolds and the manifold gaskets from a VR4

-o2 housings and precats from a VR4

-Oil housing from a VR4

-Oil feed and return lines for the turbos, and all the eyebolts and gaskets

-"Joint" on the back of the engine block for the rear oil feed line

-Modified non-turbo oil pan to accept oil return lines

-Water housing from a VR4

-Water feed and return lines for the turbos and all the eyebolts, washers, and gaskets

-VR4 downpipe

-360cc injectors

-VR4 fuel pump (or walbro 255ltr/hr)

-Injector resistor pack

-Front motor mount bracket

-Oil cooler with lines

electronics needed:

-S-AFC or S-AFR

-Boost gauge

-Air/Fuel ratio gauge

-Exhuast Gas Temperature gauge (two is best, one for front bank and

one for rear bank)

roll your driver window down. push the auto lock button on door. shut door... wait 30 seconds. reach in and open door by pulling the handle from the inside of the car. all doors and hood and trunk must be shut in order to work.

I have to assume that the timing is off someplace. Something was turned at some point in the assembly process. Go back to the crank and set it again. Yes, it's a pain, but you will find the mistake at some point.

It could just be the AC compressor causing the engine to shake when running at lower speed. If it's any more than that, the engine might need a tuneup, motor mounts or possibly a burned valve.

If you do it yourself, maybe $50. If you take it to a shop, probably at least $1,500

TAKE OFF THE DOOR PANEL BY REMOVE ONE SCREW AT THE DOOR HANDLE, 2 IN THE HANDLE YOU USE TO CLOSE THE DOOR THEN 4 AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR. THIS WILL EXPOSE THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR. NOW YOU CAN CHANGE THE REGULATOR.

it is located behind the radio

i belive the clutch adjusts automatically as its hydrolic not cable operated The clutch itself adjusts automatically, yes. However, you can adjust the pedal if your clutch is not engaging at the correct point as you press and release the pedal. Simply sit upside down in the seat (this is not as awkward as it sounds) and look at the rod that goes through the firewall connected to the clutch pedal. It will have a little nut on it that you can adjust with a wrench. That nut can work itself lose and make you feel like you have a failing clutch when really it's just the pedal.

Yes however it requires much more than just the turbo to be swapped. here is a pretty complete list. Compliments of 3si.org

Parts list:

-Turbos from a VR4, either the TD04 9b's or TD04 13G's with wastegate actuators

-Both intercooler and all piping associated

-Exhuast manifolds and the manifold gaskets from a VR4

-o2 housings and precats from a VR4

-Oil housing from a VR4

-Oil feed and return lines for the turbos, and all the eyebolts and gaskets

-"Joint" on the back of the engine block for the rear oil feed line

-Modified non-turbo oil pan to accept oil return lines

-Water housing from a VR4

-Water feed and return lines for the turbos and all the eyebolts, washers, and gaskets

-VR4 downpipe

-360cc injectors

-VR4 fuel pump (or walbro 255ltr/hr)

-Injector resistor pack

-Front motor mount bracket

-Oil cooler with lines

electronics needed:

-S-AFC or S-AFR

-Boost gauge

-Air/Fuel ratio gauge

-Exhuast Gas Temperature gauge (two is best, one for front bank and

one for rear bank)

All the trim levels use basic 10w-30.sorry pal you are wrong the tt uses 10.30 whereas the non turbo uses 10.40

yes but only if both manual or auto they wont interchange

1) Unscrew the shift Knob (counterclockwise) 2) Reach down into the inside base of the shif boot with your fingers pushing out from two sides and simply pull the boot and its associated plastic liner straight out. Its pops out very easily. 3) Turn the boot inside out Presumably the objective is to replace the old synthetic boot. 4) There is a tie wrap at the top of the boot. Just clip the tie wrap off so the plastic bushing at the top is free. 5) Unwrap the bottom of the boot from the plastic base 6) Install a replacement boot using a new tie wrap. 7) Wrap the new boot around the plastic base and snap the assembly back into place. (You may want to lubricate the linkage while you're at it.)

There's a short in the wiring of your vehicle somewhere causing the wires to cross and blow the fuse.

up behind transmission under the intake manifold to be more comftable take the battery off or you can leave it on,its your choice.thanks.

YES.

If im not mistaken its on the rear towards the right