Mitsubishi 3000 GT

Probably at the upper end of the clutch pedal

Under the hood - drain or soak up the brake fluid in the reservoir, remove 4 nuts/bolts to pull the A/C hose out of the way (tie it off), remove the plastic reservoir, disconnect the fluid line from the master cylinder (m/c). From inside the car - pull the pin that connects the rod to the clutch pedal, remove the 2 nuts that are holding the master cyl in place. Manipulate the m/c and rod and pull it out toward the engine compartment - it may require some force. If you rebuild it, make sure you hone it out and clean before assy. Try to adj the rod the same for fine tuning later - it will make it easier. Reverse for installation.

check 3si.org or stealth316.com -- should be there. good luck!

Premium gas of course for best performance

The following site:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-trany.htm

contains detailed instructions and pictures.

You probably have messed up your synchros. Have you recently changed the gearbox oil? If so, did you use RedlineMTL or Redline MTL90 or GL5 as it says in the manual? GL4 (regular transmission oil) has detergents that eat up the synchro plates, you might want to go dump your oil and put fresh RedlineMTL in there (needs 2.1qts).

Not sure which one you want - but it's probably the low washer bottle level or the low level for the radiator.

It wasn't put in the car right, or at all.

Front disc minimum is 1.118" Rear min is .724"

That sould be pretty obvious, It wont run, makes funny bering knocking noises.

3000Gts have interference engines which means if the timing belt slips a tooth the pistons will hit the valves and bend the valves and or damage the pistons. Check the timing belt for proper alignment with the timing marks on the Cams and crankshaft.

***EDIT***

Yes, it will sound horrible, loud loud rattling, screeching, etc. The SOHC engines are non-interference. You could also have broken ring land/rings, or a melted piston, etc. that I would consider beeing a blown engine, and most likely make your engine run bad. You can test this by pressure testing the cylinders and performing a leak down test.

No. It is incumbent on the manufacturer to identify and rectify all roadworthy vehicles that have a potential safety issue. Of course, it is more difficult for the manufacturer to find vehicles that have changed ownership, if the subsequent owners do not get their servicing done by a main dealer. In those cases the manufacturer contacts the DMV (VOSA in UK) and chases the vehicle ownership through them. To short circuit the process you can look on the manufacturers website to see if there are any outstanding recalls pertaining to your model. Your local dealer should be able to look up your VIN on their system to see if any recalls are outstanding for your vehicle.

The heater core is under the dash. Open the hood an look at the firewall behind the back head there are 2 hoses ther plug into the heatercore. left and right

Cylinder #1 is at the front of the engine on the right bank(front). Front of car ------------- #1 #3 #5 ------------- #2 #4 #6

Take off rear wheel. Remove brake calipers and support them with wire. Remove rotors. If they do not come right off they are either rusted on or they are stuck on the parking brake which is "drum style" located inside the rotor. There should be a hole in the hub face of the rotor to access the adjuster. Try turning the adjuster with a screw driver or brake spoon. Turning the adjuster "UP" loosens "Down" Tightens. Sometimes a large rubber hamer or prybar is needed.

To access the power antenna you have to remove the storage container next the spare tire. then remove the screws holding the plastic piece in place. Pry back the plastic trim and you will see the antenna behind it. On the outside there is a cross shaped piece holding the antenna in place. find something such as pliers to unscrew it (counter-clockwise). the antenna will fall out as a complete unit.

it is located on the drivers side at the the crank behind the covers

Poor electrical connections due to poor design or construction. Mine went bad soon after I bought mine. First tried soldering a few connections, but this was a temp fix at best. Best bet is to replace with an aftermarket one. They're inexpensive today.

Q: How do I program the remote for keyless entry? a: Programming the keyless entry receiver will be required when you purcahse a replacement "FOB" or keyless entry remote unit. The keyless entry receiver is located behind the rear interior panel near the drivers seatbelt (drivers side). Here are the steps for programming your remote for keyless entry: 1. Remove the rear hatchback cover 2. Remove the rear seat: 1. Pull the two handles near the center of each seat section on the bottom portion of the seat 2. Lift the seat bottom upwards and set aside 3. Remove the two 12mm bolts at the base of the rear seatback on the drivers side 3. Remove the driver's side rear panel: 1. Remove the rearmost screw on the plastic strip that sits over the rocker panel 2. Remove the screw on the cover of the rear seatbelt retractor then remove the cover 3. Remove the screws holding the seatbelt harness from the frame. This can be tricky since there is little room to work with. Use a stubby screwdriver 4. The seatbelt itself does not need to be removed. You can just remove the harness and leave the seatbelt threaded thru the panel 4. Remove the screws closest to the rear of the car that are located on the plastic header and footer around the drivers doorframe. These typically overlap the rear panel by a small amount and may need to be loosened to move the rear panel 5. Behind the rear panel you should see a box in front of the rear speaker - this is the receiver unit 6. Remove the receiver from the car body 7. Find the switch labeled SET 1 - FIX - SET 2 and move the switch to either SET position. (the two SET positions are in case you have two transmitters with different codes) 8. Press any button on the remote transmitter 9. Move the switch back to the FIX position 10. Test the new remote transmitter 11. Reconnect everything making sure that the antenna connector is tightly connected to the receiver

Depends on why it wont go up. Sometimes there is a plastic tab that breaks and requires replacement of the mechanism. There is also a way to fix it that can be found on www.team3s.com as it is a common problem and someone has a detailes repair with pictures if that is the case.

If im not mistaken its on the rear towards the right

*** EDIT ***

No, it is mounted to the transmission bell housing, where the tranny meets the engine, under the car, toward the front, roughly centered, there you will see it. It is circular and has two wires plugged attached to it. The big one is the power directly from the battery (disconnect your battery before touching), and the small one is the wire from the ignition. There are only two (12 or 14mm I think) bolts holding it on.

check all fuses first, the check transmission safety switch on side of transmission

a neutral safety switch only allows the car to start when the gearshift is in park or neutral. It is normally located on the top of the transmission. the switch closes the circuit so power can be sent to the starter circuit.

I had the same issue with my PWR button, along with the rear wiper button not working correctly (... blew my ignition fuse in the main fuse box under the hood, Completely killed my wiring harness). Have a shop look at the wiring in the vehicle. However, the "PWR" button doesn't do anything but make the transmission shift at a higher RPM. And if you don't know, it pretty much just kills your gas mileage and makes the car a little faster.. The only time I've ever used it is when I need a slightly faster 0-60.

If it is equipped with sport mode, then there is a switch down by your right knee that turns it on and off.

not without spending lot of money, the engine comprestion is differant, so alot of piston work involved, then ecu, then manifolds, thens x2 turbos and pipeing, then intercooler, the list goes on and on.

not worth doing, buy a twin turbo bgto if that's what you want