Nissan Maxima

Yes a catalyst can be reused because it unchanged chemically or in mass at the end of a reaction. However, this cannot be done indefinitely then, depending on the severity of the reaction conditions, it can be occur a small, but accumulative deactivation of the catalyst

The 2006 Nissan Maxima has front wheel drive.

it's quite easy. It's mounted on the firewall, closer to the driver side. The filter snaps into its holder. Pull it free, then disconnect the upper and lower hose clamps. This is the tough part - getting both hands in there to stabilize the filter while trying to remove the clamps, especailly the lower one. Make sure the fuel lines are clamped so fuel doesn't leak. Once loose, slide fuel lines off, and replace filter. Make sure filter is put on the right way - there should be a flow indicator arrow on it. Retighten hose clamps (I always liner them up so they are easier to remove the next time), snap filter into place, remove clamps from fuel lines, and your all set. ADDENDUM TO THE ABOVE ANSWER: Make sure you depressurize the fuel system before loosening the hose clamps. (Otherwise fuel will spray everywhere - Not Good) Do this by removing the fuel pump fuse while the engine is running. Wait until the engine stops running, then turn off the ignition key. It is easier to get at the fuel filter if you remove filter box and the hose between it and the throttle body. Only a few bolts and clamps hold it in place.

On the firewall under a black plastic cover that has two plastic black nuts

Have the same problem...you need to see if it is a lose solder so you can remove the dash screws and pull out the head or you can see if you have a sensor. Look behind the oil filter and there should be a box with a wire the wire will run back to the speedometer head. Sometimes a quick fix can be to GENTLY push the wires toward the sensor. If none of this works take it in to the Nissan dealer and get it fixed it costs around 150 dollars. Check the fuses in the box they will be labeled cluster interior or dash.b Also check the fuseable links.

4 one in front one in back and one on each side. The front and rear are most Likely to go out causing a jerk when shifting into drive or reverse.

1. Prepare a clean, flat area for the wheel that you will be doing.

2. Loosen the wheel nuts. ( just get them to turn, don't unscrew yet )

3. Jack up this wheel. Place a jackstand in appropriate place. ( probably just to right or left of where the owners manual says to place the jack. )

DON'T RELY ON ONLY THE JACK ! !

4. Finish unscrewing the wheel nuts, and remove the tire.

5. The caliper is obvious - - it's the big metal "pincher" thing wrapped around the wheel disc.

6. Get an old coathanger, bend a solid hook in both ends, about 10 in. from hook to hook.

6. It's pretty easy to see the 2 large bolts on the back side ( toward the engine) of the caliper. Loosen preferably with a socket wrench. ( you will probably have to bang the arm of the socket wrench or regular wrench with a hammer to get the bolt started. This caliper has been bolted there for 4 years or so ? ) Remember to go counter-clockwise to UNSCREW these bolts. But this is CLOCKWISE from where you are ! ( facing the wheel from outside the car) AFTER these 2 bolts are loose enough to turn with your fingers, hook one end of the coat hanger somewhere above the disc/wheel, like on the upper suspension, etc.

7. These two bolts will come out easier if you hold the caliper with your other hand and sort of "wiggle" it. ( especially when the bolts are almost out ) DEFINITELY have a grasp on the caliper when you completely remove the bolts. DON"T let the caliper fall and hang by the rubber brake line, because this could damage, crack the brake line. Suspend the caliper by hooking it to the bottom hook of your coat hanger. This should be done so there is NO STRAIN on the rubber brake line.

8. The two brake pads are on the inside of the caliper, facing each other. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry them loose. They should slide toward the "open" space in the middle of the caliper and then come out fairly easily. Keep them to compare to your replacements, to verify they are correct.

9. There are two little " Y " springs that are BEHIND the pads. ( at least on the '96 Maxima there are ) Try to see how they are hooked in, but this may be difficult, as they may just drop or pop out when you remove the pads.

- - - Now you just put in the new pads, but here is where my knowledge gaps - - I don't exactly know how to put the little "Y" springs back ! ( I am in this process this morning - - so maybe I will finish this answer later ! ! - - - -

hold down the lock and unlock button on your keypad

5 3/8 quarts

On many cars you can go to the dealer and he can cut you a key by your giving him the VIN on your car. I assume you have lost your key and don't have one to get a copy made of. Of coure, you can always have a locksmith make you a key from another lock on your car that uses the same key as the ignition. This is what I would do if I didn't have a key to get a copy made of. I think it would be much more economical to have a key made rather than replacing all of the locks on your car.

locate the air box where the air filter is, and follow the tube that goes into the intake manifold on the engine, and you should run into it befor you hit the intake maifold and it has a wire hooked into it from wire harnest

it shows you in your manual. i just put hologen lights in mine. it's real easy. hope this helps

where is the IAT Sensor on tne 2002 maxima

With proper maintenance, 100,00 to 150,000 miles.

the inhibitor relay is between the a/c relay and the cornering relay

Depends what country you are in, and what type of vehicle you are using For passenger cars, the UK it is now approx 12k miles per year, while in the US it is approx 10.5K miles per year. Try looking at http://www.allcountries.org/uscensus/1057_trucks_truck_miles_and_average_annual.html

before doing anything disconnect the negative cable from the battery of the car. the starter for a 99 maxima is located under the air filter housing and air intake duct, you have to remove both to even see the starter. Be careful when you remove these, they all have connectors that control important air sensors. Unhook, or unscrew anything attached to these parts before pulling out.

once you have these out you will need to reach 2 bolts, i recommend an extension for the socket-wrentch of at least 8 inches. you will also have to disconnect the negative and the aux connectors from the starter.

"A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

symptoms
Hard starting, bad idle and possibly stalling issues

caused by
Incorrect camshaft timing
Wiring issues (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
Steady oil flow to VCT piston chamber
Faulty timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)

the fix
This code indicated a mechanical issue, electrical troubleshooting wont help so replacement of the VCT or one of it's related components is necessary.

Call your mechanic, or drop into your nearest Nissan dealer

With all due respect to you, your question could be being asked by someone who has stolen a car and is trying to get it working.

Trouble code P0135 means:O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction

(Bank 1 Sensor 1)

The throttle position sensor (TPS) keeps the PCM informed about throttle position. The PCM uses this input to change spark timing and the fuel mixture as engine load changes. A problem here can cause a flat spot during acceleration (like a bad accelerator pump in a carburetor) as well as other drivability complaints.
the throttle position sensor (tps) tells the computer where you have your foot while driving ( half throttle or quarter ect.)

Trouble code P1147 means: HO2S-12 (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Rich Shift Monitoring (Bank 1)

Most liky, bad head gasket

Jack up the car, remove the rear wheel, find the caliper and behind it there are two large 19mm bolts (on a 2002) and loosen them both, pull the caliper off and be careful not to hyper extend the brake line hose, pop out the old pads...they are two different pads in a set, identify inside and outside, insert the pads, use a 'c' clamp to spread open the pads and replace the caliper unit, bolt on your wheel and take it easy braking for a few miles in order to seat the pads well.

CHECK YOUR MODEL YEAR! DON'T COMPRESS WIHT CLAMP JUST YET!

In my experience with the 97 Altima, the rear brake piston CANNOT be compressed in with a C-Clamp! If the piston face looks like a 4 leaf clover, it must be TURNED back in, not compressed! Use a pair of needle nose pliers and insert into the grooves in the face of the piston. Turn clockwise to get the piston back into the caliper. Using a clamp could damage the caliper.

4 quarts