Oldsmobile Achieva

The 1992 Oldsmobile IAC valve can be found attached to the firewall in the engine compartment. The valve will be on the passenger side of the firewall.

the amber check engine light will come on..this is not a maintanence item... for problems in engine performance, read up on diagnostics... ...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle(parts store or dealer), and a local library should have professional shop manuals available in the REFERENCE section for free...make copies of the appropriate sections...read up and good luck :) Testing O2 sensors that are installed on the car. The engine must first be fully warm. If you have a defective thermostat, this test may not be possible due to a minimum temperature required for closed loop operation. Attach the positive lead of a high impedence DC voltmeter to the Oxygen sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the computer. You will have to back probe the connection or use a jumper wire to get access. The negative lead should be attached to a good clean ground on the engine block or accessory bracket. Cheap voltmeters will not give accurate results because they load down the circuit and absorb the voltage that they are attempting to measure. A acceptable value is 1,000,000 ohms/volt or more on the DC voltage. Most (if not all) digital voltmeters meet this need. Few (if any) non-powered analog (needle style) voltmeters do. Check the specs for your meter to find out. Set your meter to look for 1 volt DC. Many late model cars use a heated O2 sensor. These have either two or three wires instead of one. Heated sensors will have 12 volts on one lead, ground on the other, and the sensor signal on the third. If you have two or three wires, use a 15 or higher volt scale on the meter until you know which is the sensor output wire. When you turn the key on, do not start the engine. You should see a change in voltage on the meter in most late model cars. If not, check your connections. Next, check your leads to make sure you won't wrap up any wires in the belts, etc. then start the engine. You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop. Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between idle and about 3000 rpm several times. The computer recognizes the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts. You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts. If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not, is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low (< 0.45). If the voltage is near the middle, you may not be hot yet. Run the engine above 2000 rpm again. If the reading is steady low, add richness by partially closing the choke or adding some propane through the air intake. Be very careful if you work with any extra gasoline, you can easily be burned or have an explosion. If the voltage now rises above 0.7 to 0.9, and you can change it at will by changing the extra fuel, the O2 sensor is usually good. If the voltage is steady high, create a vacuum leak. Try pulling the PCV valve out of it's hose and letting air enter. You can also use the power brake vacuum supply hose. If this drives the voltage to 0.2 to 0.3 or less and you can control it at will by opening and closing the vacuum leak, the sensor is usually good. If you are not able to make a change either way, stop the engine, unhook the sensor wire from the computer harness, and reattach your voltmeter to the sensor output wire. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If you can't get the sensor voltage to change, and you have a good sensor and ground connection, try heating it once more. Repeat the rich and lean steps. If still no voltage or fixed voltage, you have a bad sensor. If you are not getting a voltage and the car has been running rich lately, the sensor may be carbon fouled. It is sometimes possible to clean a sensor in the car. Do this by unplugging the sensor harness, warming up the engine, and creating a lean condition at about 2000 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. Create a big enough vacuum leak so that the engine begins to slow down. The extra heat will clean it off if possible. If not, it was dead anyway, no loss. In either case, fix the cause of the rich mixture and retest. If you don't, the new sensor will fail. Testing O2 sensors on the workbench. Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.

Left hand side under the exhaust manifold

the filter is under the car even with the rear tires coming a few inches out from the gas tank there are two lines going to the tank one has the filter on it its very simple to reach and change

I am about to attempt this same procedure on my 97 also, according to the Haynes Manual, theres a screw on the parking brake handle that you have to remove, and one on the shifter also, after that its just a bunch of plastic fastners. once you remove the console and the floor panels, its supposedly just held in by 2 clips.

The water pump on an achieva is a difficult task, however, i done it. you should really get a book for the car, i recommend haynes, it is really helpful. the water pump is below the exhaust manifold and behind the timing chain. both will have to come off. Make sure when you put it back together you set the timing chain tensioner so it will stay in time and you wont bend any valves, which, bending them is extremely easy to do when your out of time. hope i helped some

i have a 96 Oldsmobile achieva sc v6 and to change the water pump was fairly easy you just detach drive belt remove 4 small bolts to detach pulley from water pump the pump itself is then expose remove bolts change pump replace bolts then pulley takes about 20mins hardest part was bracing the pump pulley to break bolts loose

It comes in handy to know the firing order of a car when checking for problems. The firing order for a 1998 Oldsmobile 3.1 is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

so your window quit working..... just one ....lol... its not funny but I tell you how to do replace the motor for the window. follow these steps... take off the side veiw mirrow cover on the inside ... get a srewdriver and just pop it off,, then take the reflector off .... its a little red square on the back side on the door paneljust pop it off with a screwdriver.. take a Phillips head and take the screw out.get either a body tool or eithe a ...hmm say 2inch very flat cheseland put it in between the door panel and the door start at the botttom... and pry the door panel from the door.. youll be able to tell where it fastened to the door next take out the power window control... and unplug it. do the same with any other connectors ...oh yeah pull the little rubber trim from the top of the door panel that touches the glass...pry the cover off at the door handle.. and take off the plastic lock slider... theres a screw behide the little pane after that pull the panel out and up... as far as the motor and this goes for all the ones that are bad... take the speaker out and un plug get a power drill and use a 5/16 drill bit and drill the rivets out hlding the motor to the door also unbolt the 2- 14 mm bolts holding the winow regualator on the door be care when taking the last bots out ... let the window slide down a little where you can get a socket a 10 I think and unattach the windoe from the window regulator theres one in the front anf one in the back... if you want to get the window out of the way use a strip of duct tape to hold it up til you slide the windoe regualater and motor out the hole where the speaker was. just flaten it and it will come out with a little effort. get a 3/16 drill bit and take the rivets out holding the regualater and the motor.. you can buy a new motor ffom auto zone w/ lifetime warranty.. or anywhere else you buy auto parts .. its 42.50 there... sorry this was so laong .. toybiz

The 1996 Oldsmobile Achieva typically requires about 4.5 quarts of oil when equipped with a 2.4L engine and approximately 5 quarts for the 3.1L V6 engine, including the oil filter. It's always best to check the owner's manual for the specific oil capacity for your vehicle's engine type to ensure accuracy.

O.E. group size 75 for this car. Battery needs to be 700 cold cranking amps and 875 cranking amps. Usually around $70.00 with core.

on most cars the the stop light switch can be found by just following the brake arm up under the dash and you will see a plung like switch set up that when you mash down on the brakes it plunges this swith in activating the brakes light .this swith is not actually connected to the brake pedal arm but a bracket by normally to little bolts loosen bolts and unplug then replace /note-spacing is sometimes tight

According to various publications, you can find it under the hood in a fuse box, or under the dashboard on the driver's side in a fuse box. However on the 1991 New Yorker I have been suffering with for years it is cleverly placed to the right of the instrument panel, top center inside of the dashboard. You must remove the glovebox, and then the glovebox mount which includes lower dashboard and ashtray. When this is removed you will see two sets of relays. Change the turn signal relay while you are at it to prevent another disassembly. I didn't see a reference to the specific model of Chrysler, but speaking from my own experience, I own a 1993 Chrysler Lebaron, and the horn relay is located on the relay panel beside the fuse box on the driver's side, but it is hidden from view so you won't be able to access it by removing the fusebox cover. You would have to remove the lower panel under the dashboard. The horn relay is the square shaped relay on the relay panel (the hazard flasher and time delay relay on that panel are round.) If you are troubleshooting a problem of the horn not working, the problem might not be the relay. In my case, the horn would not work, although the relay tested OK. So I started troubleshooting using the wiring diagram and discovered that the metal of the steering column was not grounded to to the chassis, therefore the horn button on the steering wheel could not ground to chassis ground and could not work. The way to check for proper ground is to look on the back side of the steering wheel behind the horn button. Remove the little protective cap you will find there to expose the screw that holds the horn button. Using an ohmmeter, touch one probe to that screw and touch the other probe to any bare metal under the dash to check for ground continuity. If there is no continuity, then the steering column is not grounded to the chassis and the culprit can be found by looking under the dash just to the left of where the steering column connects to the underside of the dash. There is a nut and a star washer holding a thin metal plate that is supposed to provide the ground contact for the steering column. My solution was to use a file to remove any corrosion or paint from the side of the star washer that contacts the metal grounding plate, as well as the nut that holds it in place. I also bent the grounding plate just enough to ensure that it would make contact with the metal under the dash when installed. Once I reinstalled the grounding plate, star washer and nut, I tested again for continuity with positive results and then pressed the horn button and it worked.

Should be in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

where is cooling fan relay on 1995 olds acheiva

the thermostat is located on the passenger side rear of engine, directly under the #2 and #3 exhaust manifolds. .......drain coolant , ...on the lower radiator hose there is a stabilizer mount ..pull small nut then remove wire harness then pull the stud out .this will aid in removal of lower tstat housing....now move to the top of the engine .under the exhaust (#2 and#3) you can barely see one of the 5/16 bolts, but you can reach it with a ratchet and a long extension ....the other is a bit tricky you cant see it but you can feel it , get a ratchet wrench 5/16 and you shouldn't have a problem

take note on which way you pulled the old tstat out and put it back together with new gaskets ,fill with antifreeze ,burp the system. :)

I have the same problem when I first turn on the ignition there are no dash lights and it will start and die like yours. If I turn the switch on and off or just turn it on and wait, eventually I get dash lights and starts fine. There must be a relay or connection point causing this problem - anyone know where these are? Chuck Walp@juno.com

Yes you can if you determine the proper length belt. You can also just unplug the A/C compressor clutch. [[User:Master James|Master James]] 01:43, 7 Jul 2007 (GMT)[[User:Master James|Master James]] 01:43, 7 Jul 2007 (GMT)[[User:Master James|Master James]] 01:43, 7 Jul 2007 (GMT)[[User:Master James|Master James]] 01:43, 7 Jul 2007 (GMT)[[User:Master James|Master James]] 01:43, 7 Jul 2007 (GMT)[[User:Master James|Master James]] 01:43, 7 Jul 2007 (GMT)
If you want to,you can just remove the compressor,open it up & remove just enough of the innerds so that the pulley still turns propperly,but yet the compressor is worthless as far as the a/c is concerned. that way you don't have to worry about belt length-just use the same size reccomended for your car. This is something that I have done myself many times B4. Master James
tornadol2005@yahoo.com

mine's a 98, but all the rear lighting is accessed through the trunk by pulling back the upholstery. mine's self explanatory from there, not sure about the 97 though

You must remove the exhaust manifold it's easy to do once this is done.also the front timing cover need to be removed because the water pump driven by the chain.

Back by the fuel tank itself, look around and it is easy to get and replace

did you check the fuse?

I am trying to do this myself,any suggestions ========== Do not turn transmission! I myself, 8/29/09

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There is a diagram, for the power window system, for your 1995 Oldsmobile. The diagram can be obtained from most General Motors dealerships.

to the left of the right rear tire It'son the front of the gas tank.