Oldsmobile Ciera

OK, a late 80GM A & X body. Most Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors are located on the firewall with GM Vehicles. Others arelocated affixed to the top of the engine somewhere along the intake area. Try looking from the center of the firewall on over remotely close to the vacuum booster which is a huge frisbee on its side shaped thing. The MAP is about an inch high, about 1/2 inch thick and about 4 inches wide. there is a small rubber vacuum boot pluged into it with a vacuum capilarey line going to the bottom of the throttle body or manifold, and a connector off of its rear. If the Olds has a Mass Air Flow Sensor, it would be in the same spot as all Mass Air Flow Sensors are put. The greatest air mass travel area of the engines air input. A cylindrical spaped doo-dad that has a screen on both sides, and a wire and or ring shaped thing inside the screened cage. WARNING! Mass air Flow Sensors are super tempremental. Do not remove the screens on the sensor for greater performance or any reason. You could only do more damage than good. If you touch and bend the heat wire on the MAF sensor, the ONLY place you can successfully install it is a slam dunk straight into the garbage can. Funny how so many people don't believe that can be true, and wind up buying a new part for the tune of about 2 to 5 bills (Ben Franklins). The coolant sensors (yes, with an "s") theres two of them. One is a switch and the other a sender. They're pretty important on a GM car. Even if your thermostat and cooling system is physically and mechanically working great, without the switch sensor, overheat is likely to occur, esp. in stop and go summertime. The first more important temp sensor is the coolant fan switch which screws into the engine's cylinder head. It's single usually green lead goes to a relay which is what really supplies the juice to the fan. Note: This relay is a commonly replaced part. It fails after a half million cycles or so, so if you have overheats due to electric coolant fan failure, the relay could likely be the culprit. Try borrow/swapping with one that you know works for a fact. The other coolant temp sensor is located somewhere on the coolant housing between the upper radiator hose coolant inlet and the thermostat housing. Although not as directly critical as the switch that operates the fan relay, this is a sender sensor which means it will have a variable resistance. It has two wires going to it, neither which are grounded by the sensor. The sensor supplies the return signal to the ECU(ECM in this case) telling it the approximate temp range of the engine and provides its portion of information to the computer toward proper engine management. If you are having problems still, Be sure to only visit well trained automotive technicians, such as auto service garages that employ ASE certified technicians.

If your mechanicaly inclined.step1. pull fuel pump fuse. 2. press schrader valve in fuel rail to releive pressure.3 unscrew hardline goin into intake.4. take off big air tube coming from air filter. 5. top rear of intake manifold remove stupid hose bracket (2 nuts and a bolt). 6. unbolt top manifold of engine. Carefully grab and wiggle or pry it up. I managed to get mine up about six inches without having to take off any cables or lines going to throttle.I just propped it up.(be careful with gaskets). 7. you now see fuel rail. unscrew two hard lines going in rail on right side and bend a bit out of way.pull air line going to fuel pressure regulator(small two inch flat square with nipple bolted between fuel rail) if it didnt come off allready when pulling intake manifold. 8. unplug injectors wires(tip... lable with masking tape so you remember where they go eg...,front right, back center ect...These have spring clips.squeze and pull. 9.unscrew four bolts holding fuel rail. At this point only o-rings on the injectors are holding the rail in. Grab rail and gently wiggle back and forth as you pull up. you may need to pry but they will all pop out with the rail just be patient or you will damage the clips holding them in. 10. small screwdriver push off six metal clips holding injectors in rail and pull out injectors which are also held with o-ring. 11.put it back together.(Tips... lube the injector holes in engine and o-rings on injectors with vaseline, the rear left injectors plug is facing a different direction than the rest make note of that.)

If you are not mechanically inclined you wont understand any of what i just said and you should take it to a mechanic lol.

I have an '89 Olds Cutlass Ciera, 2.8l rebuilt v6 with about 155,000 miles on it that recently started making a noise I can't identify. It sounds like a wheel rubbing against the wheel well but it seems to come from the transmission area and feels like it's located under the gas pedal or thereabout. It appears to be unrelated to engine speed as it happens in up to 2 second long bursts intermittently while idling in any gear as well as at any speed while moving. It is also happening more and more often. The engine and transmission both seem to be working fine with no changes, although there was some foam/bubbles on the transmission fluid dipstick yesterday. I just bought the car in March and don't know much about its history, just that it recently had the engine replaced and "some transmission work done" according to the previous owner. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

most cars use about two cans of r12 refrigerant but a qualified tech should be checking your a/c

There was a V-6 and 4-cyl. You can find your [http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginefiringorders1/Engine_Firing_Orders.htm Answer Here] Good Luck and Remember.
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To remove rear spark plugs 96 olds and the like. first remove anything in your way from the top, be careful not to break electrical connection.

Youll need a swivel ratchet with a long arm on it. 1 inch and 2 inch 3/8 extensions.Patience.

The hardest part is removing the wires. I recomend changing the wire because chances are ull rip one out of its boot. (they were tight).

Thats it , there was nothing special just a very very tight place to work.

Follow the upper radiator hose to housing secured by 2 or 3 bolts--Thermostat is located in housing Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from radiator Remove housing Notice how thermostaat is installed in housing Clean both surfaces completely Install new thermostat and gasket Fill radiator slowly to prevent an "air lock" Start car and look for leaks Bring up to normal operating temp. with heater on and check coolant level

located by the glove box, close to the fuse box as well. There are 2 flashers. I read many different tips, but finally found my turn signal flasher right on top of the ash tray assembly. Take out ashtray. Remove 4 small hex head screws to remove the assembly that the ashtray slides in to. I found the turn signal flasher in a clip on the top side of that assembly. The hazard flasher was to the outside of the glove compartment. You have to remove the glove box. You will see a wiring harness on the outboard side, right above the light that lights the area where the passenger's feet are. The flasher is plugged in on the side that you cannot see. You will never know it is there, if it is not working and "ticking." Best way to look for it is probably with a "mirror on a stick." Good luck hope this saves you having to disassemble your entire dash, like me...

It's behind the glove box.

OPEN THE GLOVE BOX. YOU WILL SEE A SMALL DOOR TO THE Left. that's the hiding place of the fuses..

In the gas tank

Most GM vehicles of that vintage set the radio in similar ways. Key on, radio off, push and hold the "Set" button until the time starts flashing. Push the scan button to change the time. If the scan button doesn't work, try a few until the time starts changing. I,m trying to remember cause i just did this, hit the set button and use the volume and/or tuning knob to advance, i think this is it, if not hit the set and try one of the other knobs, hope this helps

That depends on whether you have a 2 or 4 door car. The 2 door car use a slim sealed beam headlight system (more on the later) while the 4 door uses either a drop in 9006 bulb for low beam or a 9005 bulb for high beam. I'll start with the 4 door as it is more common and easier to replace. First you'll need to disconnect the wire harness from the burned out bulb (with the headlights off of course). To do so you might need to use a small screwdriver to gently pry up on the retaining tab on the rear of the bulb. Next turn the bulb counter clockwise (looking from the rear of the bulb)approximately a quarter turn. The bulb should then be free to remove. Insert a new bulb by reversing the above steps being very careful not to touch the glass part of the bulb. It is a halogen bulb which burns very hot and by simply touching it you can transfer oils from your fingers to the bulb thereby creating a "cool" spot on the bulb. When you turn the headlight on the glass expands slightly because of the heat generated but it won't expand as much at the "cool" spot you created and this could cause enough stress in the thin fragile glass to cause it to break. If you do inadvertently tough the glass of the bulb wipe it clean with isopropyl alcohol before installing. Now the 2 door cars use a slim profile "sealed beam" headlight. It is not actually a true sealed beam headlight because all it really is is a 9005 or 9006 bulb simply glued into the back of a glass housing unit. I won't go into the actual mechanics of how to remove the "sealed beam" unit (you might be able to skip removing it if you want to take a stab at replacing the bulb only in place) but I would recommend removing the whole glass unit. Once you remove it you have the choice of buying a new "sealed beam" unit (rather expensive- probably 5 times the cost of a replacement bulb) or buying a 9006-low beam or 9005-high beam bulb. As mentioned above the bulb is simply glued into the back of the bulb. The glue isn't particularly strong and you should be able to carefully pry the old bulb out using a flat blade screwdriver or other suitable instrumental. DO THIS CAREFULLY OR YOU WILL RUIN THE PLASTIC INSERT. NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BULB BASE because if you put it back in differently the wire harness might not reach. Once you have old bulb removed use some high heat silicone or other suitable adhesive and glue the new bulb in place giving caution to the warning under the 4 door headlight system. Worth a shot versus buying a very expensive unit in my opinion.

I'm answering my own question here. I put the 1995 tranny on the 1996 and it works just fine. I just had to put an electronic piece from the 1996 tranny onto the 1995 tranny in order to get the wiring to work. Easy...and the car runs perfect on the 1995 tranny.

I used to have one of these cars, and man, they're a pain when you dont know whats what. I'm assuming you mean the "flasher" unit which looks something like a cylindrical fuse and might cost about $5-$10. If so, then its not too hard. Open up the glove box compartment, and unscrew/bolt it (there should be about 10-16 hex screws, at least on mine they were hex). Pull it straight back (towards you) to get it out (there shouldn't be any cables attached to it). Once removed, look to the left and you should see it attached to a wiring harness (looks a little strange as it may be attached to other cables or a bundle of cables). simply pull it out of the socket (may require a bit of force) and then insert the new flasher unit and test it. (believe me, its boring taking out those screws again). Once tested, reinsert the glove box compartment and rescrew it into position. If this isn't what you're asking for, let me know, I'll keep checking back. The only other thing I could think of for this question is the actual lever for the indicator, which requires a steering wheel puller to get to. (also a lot of fun)

how do you replace the headlight switch on a 1993 cutlas ceria*

You should try checking behind the ashtray in the center of the dash. It is usually clipped to the right side of the ashtray frame that will come out with a few screws.

Open the passener door, and fuse panel is on far right-hand side of dashboard.

This car is fuel injected. There is no carb.

if its popping back out on its own, its probably just a bad "cam" in the steering column that automaticly turns off your turn signal when you make a turn. If the turn handle stays in that position when it shuts off, it sounds like an electricity ghost.

the turn signal has a granny timer on it, to prevent the 100 mile turn signal :) its supposed to turn off by itself if it hasn't been tripped by the steering cam.

If u have the 3100 engine you have to remove the air intake box and bellow for AIT sensor look down you'll see the low side connection for charging th A/C. i have a 3100 but its not along the firewall towards the middle?

On a 96, there is a fuse panel on the right side of the dash, against the right door.

wher is the TPS located on a 96 oldsmobile ciera 3.1L ?