Oldsmobile Cutlass 442

The starter is located at the bottom front of the engine. Look down in between the radiator and the engine. if all else fails, crawl under and look up, but wear safety goggles and use a good light.

Remove the clock from the dash.

Gently insert a small flatblade along the edge of the front case retainer and twist/pop it off. The lens is now easily removed.

You will need to take a screwdriver or knife to take the intake off of a 1986 2.9 Bronco 2. Just take and pry the intake off. It is very easy to do.

yes. it has a four barrel computer controled electric carburetor.

Two long bolts under the starterlocated on the drivers side facing the car, unscrew 3/4 of the way then unscrew 3 nuts on the solenoid mounted on top of the starter, mark the wires to reinstall the same post they were removed from. Finish backing out the two bolts hanging the starter. Line up new starter with the two mounting bolts , start them about 4 or 5 turns then re attach wires onto the solenoid secure nuts tightly. Finish torquing the starter bolts the rest of the way. Beware many times the solenoid is just bad and not the entire starter , solenoid much cheaper. I had an all original 45k mile 69 about 25 years ago replaced starter several times pretty simple. Beware the starter is heavy 20-25 lbs. May be easier to use a small floor jack to hold the starter while you line up the main bolts. Replaced dozens on the 350 OLDS same deal pretty easy. If the 400 or 455 has headers on it your in for a pain and will have to loosen the header and drivers side motor mount jack engine up in compartment 2-3 inches header equipped starter change is a bitch! Never had to shim an OLDS starter Good Luck.

get in your back seat. feel along the bottom edge of your seat. you will feel two bolts. remove these and the seat will come right out. just did this to my 91 cutty to see if i could get to the fuel pump from there.

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dont listen to him...he cant spell

th-200c. 200 metric. turbo-hydramatic 200. whatever the name, they are all the same.

Look at crutchfield.com for detailed pictures and instructions.

It requires removing the exhaust manifold in the front, and draining the A/C system. The starter is between the engine and the radiator. The line from the A/C compressor goes right by the starter. Really bad, the starter on an 82 Delta 88 came off with 3 bolts.

Your spark plug gap info should be on a sticker in the engine compartment. On the front clip above the radiator. That's where it is on my 01 impala

should be 1.016 mm or .044 inches

'Bout 10-20 lbs.

The spark plug gap for a 2000 Buick Regal should be set at .060 inches. New spark plugs may be purchased at an auto parts store and will be preset.

15x7

The firing order is 18436572.

4 lbs. (64 oz.) (1.82 kg.)

Lower the steering colunm. the ignition switch is located on the top of the steering column about 6 inches from the firewall.

NGK plug BP4HS - Gap for PW 50 is 0.6mm.

All 1968 Cutlass two doors had Chrome Louvers on the hood. All others did not. The Hurst/Olds had painted louvers.

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/brothers-automotive-products-4264/oldsmobile-cutlass-442-parts-fall-2009-20699/page-22.html has the part if you need it.

They can get really stuck. Stuck to the engine, and won't even rotate a bit, or rotates but will not pull out [stuck to the oil pump drive rod]?

Remove the clamp.

Convince it to rotate

pull and pry as needed.

Sometimes they break off instead of letting go of the oil pump drive rod.

The worst one I ever did, was a junkyard car with an engine no one cares about, but a fuel injection distributor, so I cut the bottom out of the oil pan, removed the oil pump, and tapped the oil pump drive rod and distributor up out from below. At some point you have to decide what parts you can sacrifice, and/or how bad do you really want this thing out.

4T

age 4

According to alldata 13-15 ft lbs of torque are needed for the rocker arms. The engine does not need to be at TDC and it also does not have to be running.

2853

This can be difficult.

Bottom first.

Bottom is held by one of the main wires engaging a slotted bracket on the floor, one on each side. You will need room, and muscle. May have to remove front seats to get enough room. You might be able to see the wire/ slot if you can get your head and some light down there, so you know that you are up against.

Do 1 side at a time. Push down at the front, then rearward. Rearward push may need to be very vigorous, like using your legs and/or all your strength, applied to the big wires across the front at the bottom. If it moves aft about 1-2" then it should move up and out of the slot, then you can do the other side.

Then, the bolts or bendable tabs that hold the bottom of the seat back in place should be obvious. Once those are undone, lift the seat back up about 2" off its slotted hangers at the top, and out she goes.

If you can look at a parts/ junkyard car or find photos on the interwebs first, it'll help visualize what you are doing....

Put the convertible top in the down position, and insert side brace connecters into the slots on the sides of the interior cabin - behind the seat but in front of the rear deck. Place the hard top on the car (line up the holes on accurately). insert torqex head screws into all the holes, and tighten with the wrench that came with the car. Screw holes are in the side brackets, under the sun shades in the front, and there are 2 in the rear deck (rear deck uses normal bolts). Connect the defroster by inserting the wire leads from the top into the connecters that are by the side braces.