Oldsmobile Intrigue

Not very hard. You have to take the starter out (or at least I did). I did the work from underneath the car. Take the battery cable loose. Remove the starter. The crank sensor is held in with one bolt. Take it out, clean everything off, put the new sensor in and plug it in. Make sure the sensor wires are tie-wrapped or otherwise strapped down so they don't vibrate over time and break. Re-install the starter. I have read that you should "calibrate" the sensor but you need a diagnostic connection to the computer to do it. I have not done this on my car and don't seem to have had any issues and it's been 10's of thousands of miles.

check fuse or see if its plugged in under the seat

The most true and reliable source to find a diagram of parts for an Oldsmobile Intrigue is at an Oldsmobile dealership. Most cars should be sold with an owners manual, which contain a parts diagram.Ê

The bolt that is behind the power steering pulley can only be removed by removing the power steering pump. you should be able to just pull of the pully with a power steering pully puller I got the pulley off but cannot figure out how to get it back on. Might be screwed. Probably best to remove the power steering pump. Recommend you remove the two mounting bolts for the power steering pump. They are located in the face of the pump and can be accessed using a 13mm or 1/2 deep socket through the access holes in the pulley. This will allow the pump to be moved out of the way to remove the last bolt from the water pump. gt Removing the power steering pump by going through the holes in the pulley was life saving info for me, and 13mm can work but 1/2" was the right deep socket size for me. It's hard to see where the bolts mount to though as they go thru the p/s pump, try and remember where it was so going back together will be easier.

Have you had a service department check it out? 1. Could just be low on coolant is your light on? I know that's kind of a silly question sometimes the lights just burn out. You could be low on coolant with air in your system. IF you ever ran low on coolant and you filled it you could have gotten air in your system. The light may not be on now because of that. 2. Your thermostat could be sticking. 3. Fans may not be working causing your car to cool down when you start moving with air passing through it. Do you have a problem with overheating in the summer at all?

the bolt comes out with the oposite lefty tighty and righty loossey. over righty tighty and lefty loosey

I changed my own tranny fluid and filter and gasket last fall. You merely need to get the replacement filter and gasket. Your 99 Intrigue probably has a tranny gasket that can be cleaned and used one more time. My parts guy told me so, and the filter kit explained what to look for as well. Put the car up on jacks or ramps. loosen the tranny filter case bolts. Put your fluid receptical under the case cover. Loosen enough bolts to get the fluid running out. Let it all drain. Remove cover and gasket. Remove the old filter by pulling straight down. Try to get the small O ring gasket from the filter out. I couldn't get mine to come out. Clean up all of the surfaces. Place the new filter into the O ring gasket. Push up into place. I can't remember what gasket liner if any was needed. I think they recommend that you use a soluble grease to merely hold the gasket in place while putting the case cover back on. PUt cover back on with bolts. Use a torque wrench to specs on replacement instructions. Fill er back up. My 99 used about 8 qts to get back to level. Not a hard job.

go to a mechanic with the antilock break computer. but you will find they want to replace the ABS computer then they will find the actual problem that plagues all intergue's the screw jacks on the actuator motors fail. some have actuall caused the back brakes to stop functioning. replace the actuator first, used or new. just make sure the used one did not come from a car hit in the front(bad brakes!) then bleed the master cylinder and brakes. be careful this could result in brake failure.

With an OBDII diagnostic code reader. You can usually rent/borrow one from places like Schucks/Pep boys. There is a socket under the dashboard on the drivers side that the unit plugs into.

It's your heater core, and it's leaking. You need to fix it. It's located under the dash area by the passenger side. You have to replace the heater core, if you mechanical inclined, you can do it yourself. Get some tips from your parts guy at the auto parts store. Keo If the leak appears to be clean water after a rain, it may just be that the gasket at the bottom edge of the windshield (just above the vent intake plenum), has either fallen off or was taken off and not reinstalled properly - allowing rain-water to run down into the blower housing and drip out onto the carpeting. To rectify, simply remove the three screws securing the plastic cover where the passenger-side windshield-wiper rests, pull the cover off and re-secure the ~18" long rubber gasket to the metal frame-edge above the blower intake. I added a bead of silicon calk to help hold the gasket - because the rubber grippers in the gasket had lost their bite and wouldn't hold. A clean-water passenger side leak can also be caused from a clogged condensation drain on the AC. This has happened to my 98 Intrigue, and was fixed by the car dealer Answer I had this same problem. It turned out to be a plugged weep hole from the air conditioning condenser drain line is plugged. Turns out lots of gunk can get in there. The condenser is behind the glove compartment and drains water through the firewall close to the center of the car low down in the engine compartment. I believe you will be looking for a 90 degree rubber elbow. I had a mechanic suction it out with an air hose (he drained about 1/2 gallon of clean water out). He only charged me $10 since it took about 5 minutes and I knew the solution from reading a post on another forum. He suggested not using a hanger or anything with a sharp edge to clean out the weephole since it could damage the rubber around the area and make it worse later. I would probably try this on my own in the future since I expect it to plug again. It's a bit diffilcut to find unless you have the car up on a lift, but not impossible. More info: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_would_cause_standing_water_on_the_passenger_side_of_a_1998_Oldsmobile_Intrigue

It is under the dashboard against the firewall. You have to remove the blower motor first by folding yourself up into a ball, but it can be done.

Air bubbles remaining in the system

what bolt?

When the ABS light comes on, the unit failed the startup test, and is likely "OFF", which means you still have brakes, but the ABS unit will no longer pulsate them if you enter a skid. The BRAKE light on may be as simple as low fluid, or more serious issues like low pads or loss of braking pressure, master cylinder leaks, etc. Since both are on, I'd suspect the brake problem has caused the ABS problem. Get 'em checked out NOW. Needs a code scanner for the ABS system.

I have a 2000 Intrigue, it was having the same problem. You need to turn the car off with the windshield wipers in the up position. On the passenger side you need to unscrew or basically pry off the plasic shield/molding where the wiper rests in the down position, it may help to lift the hood to get this piece off. Below this plastic shield you will see a piece of rubber that was suppose to be diverting water to the right or left of the passenger side air conditioning filter, however, it is just laying there on top of the filter, immediately below the filter is the blower motor. Instead of the rain water being diverted it is going right down into the blower motor and onto the floor because this rubber piece has fallen off. Get sealant/glue/duct tape and re-attach the rubber. The hardest part is prying the plastic shield off.

After the air flows though the air filter there is a large plastic tube that carries it to the mass air flow sensor. It's at the end of this tube at the top of the engine. The sensor is easily reconizable after you purchase a new one from the auto parts store. It is black. Round on top attached to a square plate held down with 4 screws. One on each of the 4 corners of the plate.

When you have the hood open, look down at the headlight assembly, you will see two large white plastic clips. Grab the top of each of the clips and they will slide out completely and the head light assembly will be completely removable. Just think, the engineers finally find a decent way to build a car and they stop making it.

Check to see if the bulb that does not flash is going bad, or is burnt out.

I have a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue. The rearview mirror on my car has twin maplights, and on the back it says "Donnelly IE 8012001". I'm guessing the 1998 Intrigue uses the same parts. I just re-glued my mirror to the windshield after it fell off. Some other cars use a screw to attach the button to the mirror, but this mirror does not. Instead, I used a flat-head screwdriver to pry the button out of the mirror -- be careful to not to hurt yourself or the mirror. After prying the button out, I studied the mirror, and there doesn't appear to be any other way to remove the button. When gluing the button to the windshield, be careful to figure out which side and orientation the button needs to face before gluing it to the windshield.

6 US Quarts.

go to 99intrigue.shutterfly.com/compressor. Get clutch remover and installer. Get feeler gauge. Remove serpentine belt with 1/2" breaker bar. Measure air gap in clutch. Remove shaft nut. Remove clutch with remover. Remove outer snap ring. Remove pulley with pry bars or remover. Remove clutch coil with pry bars or remover. Replace new coil and pulley. Replace snap ring. Replace clutch, maintaining air gap. Reinstall nut. Reinstall belt.

Please consider the fuse box to find the flasher relay. Owner's Manual will give the fuse box's exact location and may have a list of which electrical function each fuse controls (in top-to-bottom, left-to-right order). Try looking under the hood near the windshield for a rectangular plastic cover (may be labeled "fuse") which may also have a list of each fuse's function and maximum electrical current number (probably also color-coded). Turn signals may be called "position lamps", "turn signals" or "warning/emergency lamps/lights", and they may have separate fuses for lamps on right- and left sides. Fuses are easily removed with tongs or thin pliers, and you should see a single thin strip of metal inside each fuse. When you find no such piece of metal, or two separate pieces, the fuse must be replaced. You probably have a set of extra fuses in the fuse box or glove box. Fuse box may also be located under the dashboard, somewhere between the steering wheel and driver's door. Good luck!

I can answer this because I just finished mine today. :)

First off you are going to need some good tools and at the least six jack stands if you are performing this feat on the ground. ( Not using a lift )

The process requires that you lower the back half of your engine cradle and it can be DANGEROUS. You will be removing two large bolts that support your engine and transmission and I am talking about letting loose over 600 pounds of steel right above your head so if you do not think you are up to this DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!

With that said I'll give you a good rundown of the job.

1. Park your car on a hard level surface and set your parking brake. DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR FREAKIN YARD OR GRAVEL DRIVEWAY! ( Unless you want to be crushed by a 3,000 pound car )

2. loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET )

3. Raise and support your vehicle on four good jack stands.

( Or you can do like I did and use two steel ramps at the rear of the car and two jack stands on the front. If you choose to do it this way don't loosen your front lugs until you have backed your vehicle onto the ramps and SET YOUR PARKING BRAKE )

4. Remove the front wheels and disconnect your vehicles battery.

5. Make sure your wheel hubs are pointing straight ahead and then separate the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and inspect your outer tie rod ends for wear and boot damage if they flop around like a limp noodle they are shot and need to be replaced. Now is a good time to replace them because when all is said and done you will need to have your vehicle aligned anyway. Outer tie rod ends can be bought for around $20 bucks. ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE OLD RACK YET )

6. Just under the driver side in the wheel well look through at the rack and pinion closest to you. You will notice where the intermediate shaft joins with the rack.

There will be a rubber dust cover covering the shaft. You might see a warning label wrapped around the dust cover. Go ahead and push the dust cover above the racks stub shaft and access the intermediate shafts pinch bolt. Use a long extension to reach this bolt and remove it. Take a heavy screwdriver and gently pry off the intermediate shaft. ( NOTE do not disturb "ROTATE" the steering wheel at this point because it will affect reinstallation and cause damage to the steering column and your air bag wiring.

7. Place two jack stands under the rear outer edges of the engine cradle and position them as to allow the engine cradle to lower down to them about 4 inches then support the rear of the engine cradle in the center just behind the transmission pan with a good floor jack. ( NOT THE PAN ITSELF ) Apply just enough pressure with the floor jack to support the engine cradle when the two rear engine cradle bolts are removed so the engine and transmission does not fall out. ( DANGER BE CAREFUL!! ) ( It is best to position the floor jack with the pump handle facing out toward the front of the car.

8. Remove the two large rear engine cradle bolts and GENTLY lower the floor jack so the engine cradle will rest on your two jack stands you placed under the engine cradle for support. ( Do not lower the engine cradle too far you will cause the rear of the engine to hit the firewall and you will damage your engine! )

9. Once you have made sure your engine cradle is secure resting on the jack stands you will now have access to the two power steering lines connected to your rack. You will need a 18mm wrench to remove them. Place a drain pan under the car and remove both the high pressure line and the return line from your old rack and allow them to drain into the pan. ( remove the power steering fluid fill cap to allow them to drain more easily ) Remove your serpentine belt from the power steering pulley and spin the pulley by hand this will evacuate the remaining old power steering fluid from the pump.

Now is a good time to fill and flush your power steering pump with fresh power steering fluid and spin the pump pulley by hand again to force out all of the old dirty fluid. ( Do this until the fluid runs clear )

10. Next There are two bolts and nuts that hold in your rack you will see them on the bottom of the rack one on each side. You will again need a 18mm wrench and 18mm ratchet to remove these bolts. If your car is equipped with magna steer disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to your rack. ( It's on the drivers side )

11. Carefully remove the old rack through the driver side wheel well. Pay attention and don't manhandle the rack out because you can damage your power steering hoses and electrical wires.

12. Carefully install the new rack the same way you took it out and bolt it in. The new rack should come with new o rings for the power steering lines USE THEM. Reattach the power steering hoses and tighten them to 20 foot pounds of torque. reattach the magna steer connector. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE POWER STEERING LINES YOU WILL RIP OUT THE THREADS!! )

13. Raise the engine cradle back into position and bolt it in. ( I recommend that you use thread locker on the engine cradle bolts DON'T USE TOO MUCH OR YOU WILL NEVER REMOVE THEM EVER AGAIN ) Once you have the engine cradle secured back in you can remove the jack stands you supported the cradle with and remove the floor jack.

14. If you are using new tie rod ends or reusing the old ones you will need to count how many threads they are screwed on the old rack so your alignment will be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. Count how many threads the jamb nut is from the inside of the racks inner tie rod and make a note of it and then count how many turns it takes you to unscrew the outer tie rod from the racks inner tie rod and also make a note of it. You will need to repeat this for each side as they both will be different. Screw the jamb nut onto the new racks inner tie rod and use your notes to position the new or reused tie rod onto the new rack. once you are happy with this reconnect the outer tie rods to their steering knuckles and then tighten the jamb nut against the outer tie rod.

15. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir and reattach your serpentine belt to the power steering pulley. Reattach the intermediate shaft to the racks stub shaft and reinsert the pinch bolt. (DANGER!! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FULLY ENGAGED WITH THE STUB SHAFT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE PINCH BOLT! ) Place the dust cover back over the shaft and reconnect the battery.

16. Start the car and SLOWLY turn your steering wheel from stop to stop several times to help purge air from the new rack. ( This may take you several times ) Your power steering pump will whine for a bit as you do this. Make sure you keep the power steering fluid topped off. Now look under the car and check for leaks from the power steering lines.

17. Reattach the front wheels and GET YOUR CAR TO AN ALIGNMENT SHOP or you will regret it later.

Hope this helps!

Bad connectors, and moisture. The caps must be on all ports on the headlight assembly. use connection grease on the bulb connection. replace with a new one from GM. other wise clean the terminals and replace with a new bulb. this works for a while but you will have to replace with a new connector socket.