Oldsmobile Intrigue

It is on the evaporator case and is held in with 2 screws.

I usually take the key out, turn it, and put it back in ignition to start

Just look at your old belt, and draw your own diagram on a peice of paper.

Before looking for the servo check your vaccum line from the back of the engine it goes across the firewall down the passenger side-inside fenderwell, then und&er the battery and back to the lower firewall. Lots of Intrigues battery aicid eat this little black line into around the battery box. This creates no vaccum to the heat & air door controls.

You don't. It doesn't have one.

If you have some vehicle repair knowledge you can replace them yourself. If not, it is best to have a mechanic look at it.

You might be driving too aggressive. If your service engine ligh is on have your vehicle serviced. you might need a long overdue tune up. When I changed my worn out spark plugs it increased my gas milage by about 1.5 mpg, now i get about 22mpg in a highway /city mix and about 25mpg mostly highway but still some city miles. my engine is a 3.5 L dohc.

Good luck. The plastic surround on the speaker can be popped off, exposing the mounting screws of the speaker. However, unless you park your Intrigue in a garage constantly, the plastic has likely become brittle, and the surround will likely crack or one of the tabs will break off. An alternative may be to remove the whole door panel, but similar problems with brittleness and cracking. could possibly use a butter knife to find tabs and gently push down to pop them out to get to speaker screws

No

The low water level sensor is in your radiator overflow resivoir. The reservoir is supposed to have a certain amount of coolant in it but if it's low, the light comes on. This has nothing to do with the radiator being empty. True, if the reservoir is left unchecked the radiator may eventually become low and then you will overheat but until then, it's just telling you the reservoir is low.

THE POWER STEERING PUMP IS LOW ON FLUID OR HAS GONE BAD ALLTOGETHER. This happened to my 2002 intrigue,and it was caused by failure of the rack and pinion steering, parts were obtained from NAPA PARTS,and replaced by dealer.

The Intrique, along with every other GM car made, are known to get clogged cooling systems. The DEX Cool coolant they use is one of the worst ideas out there. USually ranning a bottle of coolant flush, driving it, then flushing it out, then another bottle of flush, then driving it, then flushing it out, then another bottle of coolant flush, then refilling with standard green coolant, and installing a inline coolant filter, to get any more dexcool coolant particles. ----------------

In my professional opinion, Dexcool accelerates oxidation of parts, but does not directly cause clogging. A flush might not be a bad idea anyway. I'd recommend that universal yellow long-life instead of the green. --

1. Remember when flushing to make sure the front of the condenser and/or radiator is not plugged with seeds, dirt, etc. You can clean this with a normal water hose. DO NOT use a pressure washer as this will bend the fins.

2. Verify that as the car is getting warm (on its way to hot) that the fans are working. If the fans are not working, check the coolant temp sensor before the fans themselves. Check fuses and relays.

3. Replace the coolant pressure cap. If it's not holding pressure, the system will overheat.

Overheating is rarely a "plugged" issue on modern cars.

The oil filter in in the oil pan. It is a cartrige type. There is a round 4-5" "plug" that you have to unscrew in the pad, oil and the filter come out when you remove it, yes messy. An oil filter cap will usually fit, or a big pair of pliers.

thanks Gary

Do you mean "how to change the oil pan gasket?", or "should I change the oil pan gasket?". I assume you have a leak around the pan and need to change the gasket. If so, be sure that it is indeed a gasket leak by cleaning off the engine and pan and checking it again after an hour of driving. The 3.5L are notorious for using oil (about 1 qt every 1000 mi is considered average). Don't just assume this oil is leaking out.

To change the gasket is a lot of labor but is fairly straightforward. Drain the oil, remove the dozen or so bolts from the pan, and pry it off being as careful as possible to not gouge the block or bend the pan lip. Remove the old gasket with a scraper, again being careful to not scratch up the block or the pan. Install a new gasket (they come in a kit with the proper sealant, I believe (never done an Olds myself)). Bolt it back on and retorque the bolts to the level and in the order specified in the kit. The pan on the 3.5L includes the oil filter carrier, which may need replacement if it is worn. These can leak as well.

I have a 1982 olds toro. I have the same problem as you. I talked to a cadillac dealer on this problem. He said that is was a common problem because of the 4 wheel disc brakes. But he said he does not know how to fix it.

I think there is with all of the 3.5 "Shortstars" I will go through about a quart every 3000 miles. Have for the 70 thousand miles I have driven my 2000 Rich
--Yes there is an issue with oil consumption with the 3.5-liter. I have seen and heard of average consumptions to be as much as 1 quart per 1,000 miles.

You will need a ratchet and a strong friend. Put the ratchet on the bolt on the pulley that moves. You will know which one it is because when you turn it the belts wll loosen and tighten on the pulley. have some one hold the ratchet down so you can remove the belt from the pulley... pull it off. Remember how it came off to put it back on. Once you pull the belt off you can let the ratchet go. Put the belt parallel with the pulley and pull the ratchet down. WHen it loosens the pulleys slide the belt on and let the ratchet go. ZRemove ratchet. Don't start the car but tap the key forward 3 to 4 times to make sure the belt is on track. Then start it up!!

If you're referring to the spindle nut for the center hub it is 118 ft lbs of torque. I replaced my wheel bearing and the paperwork with the new had a torque reference guide with it (very useful). It recommended 118 ft lbs.

mine does too. 99 malibu...seems like when it guts warmed up it seems to go. ONly had problem 2X where I thought it was not gonna go.

If your blower motor is either not turning itself off, or randomly turning itself on with the ignition off (and you have auto climate control), the problem is the blower control module. Located directly behind the blower motor, it takes information from the climate control, and is in charge of turning the blower on/off.

To replace the blower control module, remove the splash shield under the passenger side dash (there's 3 plastic retainers hold it in place). The blower control module is located behind the blower motor, and is held in with 3 bolts. The 2 rearmost bolts (by the firewall) only need to be loosened, and the front one removed. The entire unit rotates down and can then be replaced.

Most likely from corrosion. Not much you can really do about it if you used good quality parts. you might want to check your lug nuts to see if there all the way tighten.

If you DON'T have auto air controls (with a fancy thermostat) then it only works on high because of a bad blower resistor pack. This is almost an easy fix. Why it makes noise is probably something down in the 'squirrel cage'. Take out the cabin air filter -- accessible from under the hood -- and look down into the cage with a flashlight.

If you DO have auto controls.. the fan speed issue needs to go to a professional.

Sounds like problem may be in the multifunction switch in steering column Probably a broken switch, flasher or relay. Check all the light circuit fuses, flashers and relays first (easy). If nothing found there, suspect the switch in the column (not so easy). A bad flasher should affect the rear signals the same as the front. The highbeams being on all the time sounds like a bad switch in the steering column to me, but I'd check both the fuse panels (under hood and on side of dashboard) for the easy stuff first.

ALSO...

I had this same problem of a fast blink and the front marker light not working. The bulb itself was fine, but I noticed corrosion and burnt plastic on the bulb itself.

I cleaned the wire contacts on the bulb, then pried carefully on the wire with a pocket knife to "bump" it up a bit for better seating contact.

It worked like a charm on both the left and right signals.

Have not had an issue again in several months now.

Unplug the whole light assembly from the bottom front of the car it just pops out to replace the turn signal bulb-same on the rear but you have to remove the trunk lining first.