Peugeot 405

remove the cover to the cockpit filter there is a small box on the right hand side of it [as you look into the engine bay from the front] the relays controlling the lights and heater fan are in there

Under bonnet front nearside there is a key lock switch but you need the key.... I have the same problem and I am going to just cut the wire and short hopefully the right ones to restart the electric dianostic process. Any bright ideas? Paul H

Well, in my experience, it's very difficult as there is so little room. there are 2 wire clips to release, but then these get in to road when trying to raise the radiator. to make more room it seems necessary to dis-assemble the front lights and loosen the bracing that holds the A/C fans. even then, we had to pull of the front bodywork to get it out. getting the repalacement into position is just as difficult. for an experienced mechanic, it takes about 4 houre all up = $280 + cost of replacement. By the way, we have had the car 15 years, in Adelaide, where Holden/Ford radiators & water pumps are lucky to last 5 years, no kidding, so I suppopose we can't complain.

It is important to know when car parts quit working, and why. A faulty voltage regulator, blown fuse, or the wiring to the battery can cause this problem.?æ

usually under the the drivers side rear passenger seat, lift off a large black plastic cover and underneath you shall have your fuel gauge sender unit + pump if it's a petrol.

you can by a tool for this kind of dilema,from mac tools i think my mate bought one it fits allsorts of locking wheel nuts you hammer it on then you just use your wheel key,or you just hammer and chisel them til they slacken you will damage them doin the latter

If those 'Locking nut removal tools' worked, every thief in the country would have one, errr, no point in the locking nuts then, eh?

www.lockingwheelnutsremoved.com , guaranteed.

u cud buy my 309 diesel 4 150 and swap my engine into yours

The relays for the headlights and full beam, and the dim-dip relays, are located under the bonnet, next to the pollen filter - lift the bonnet and lift the plastic cover hiding the pollen filter - look out for four relays, including two green ones.

Its a little grey square box about 1inch cube with three square pins underneath the steering wheel. You might have to remove the plastic surround or you could hook it out through one of the holes. You can tell if you've got the right thing because it ticks when your indicators are in use. I think my 405 is 1995, can't speak for earlier models.

Considering that it's engine was strikingly similar to the Pakyan 1600cc I4, my guess would be that it would be similar in ignition sequence too.

The Pakyan sequence was 1,3,4,2.

405's have two aux. belt tensioners. One at the bottom (manual adjustment with 6mm Allen key), and a spring loaded one at the top. On my 405 '96 1.9td, the spring loaded one seized, so instead of paying out around 80 GBP for a new one, i got a slightly smaller belt. works a treat.

get a haynes manual and follow the instructions to the letter if you get it wrong you will wreak your engine its time consuming if you have never done one before ,took me 10 hours but i was being very carefull

its in the fuse box next to the motor mount. facing the engine from the front, its on the left hand side in a black box. i belive its the one at the very rear, but you could test them to check which one is broken

its normally situated to the right(passenger side)of the outlet manifold on the block of the engine depending on what car it is but most are the same

I used a 21mm on mine yesterday.

hope this helps

Paul

0.9MM with spark plug gap tool.

Easy!

Pull the bonnet release lever on passenger side of car (Assuming its a right hand drive car). Then at the front of the car midway between the centre and drivers side (again assuming its a right hand drive car) and just under the bonnet there is a little black plastic "T" shaped piece. Pull hard on this as it sometimes sticks a bit and you should hear the bonnet release and then simply lift up the bonnet.

no

Definitely NOT......Water & Oil galleries do not lineup!

In a word, NO!

If you have the right tools its not too bad. To make life easy you need to remove the inlet manifold. Then remove the cables with 8mm spanner. Now you can get the plugs and they'll be tight. You really need to use a 12mm socket and you might need a bar. After you got them all out putting the new ones in is really easy.

On the side of the engine there is a hand fuel pump - a black rubber thing with a pipe coming out of both ends.

Find it and pump it a few times.

Have a good look and see if there is diesel leaking out anywhere.

These cars seem to regularly blow the end caps on the injector bleed system. Its a £3 repair and also makes the car start on the first or second evolution of the crank. Halfords have the kits. You have 3 Allen bolts to undo under the rubber around the radiator type thing on the top of the engine, and you need to loosen two more on the front to be able to move it out of the way to get to the bleed pipes. They are about 6mm and join the injectors The end one on the left has a bung.

Sometimes the drain in the back of the diesel filter bowl leaks. This is just to the right of the orange oil dipstick handle.

With a leak between the tank and the fuel pump, the engine runs weak and will not run properly when warmed up. Mine actually used to stall.

Repaired by by rubbing some silicone sealant over it. Its been fine for a year now.

Hope that helps.

What type of transmission fluid do I need? What type of fluid your transmission requires depends entirely on what type of transmission you have. Over the years, Volvo has used many different transmissions in the 240 and 260 models. Manual transmissions models: M41, M45, M46, M47/M47-II, M51. Automatic models: BW35, BW55/AW55, AW70/AW70. 1975 model year 240s with the B20F engine got the M41 (four speed manual + electric pushbutton overdrive) or BW35 (three speed automatic) transmissions as carryovers from the 140 cars. 1976-1993 models got either the M45 (four speed manual), M46 (four speed manual with a push button overdrive unit), M47 (five speed manual), BW55/AW55 (three speed automatic), or AW70/AW71 (four speed automatic). Early 260s were available with a true five speed Getrag manual transmission (M51), later ones got the M46 (four speed + overdrive manual) or the BW55/AW55 (three speed auto). Most, if not all, US and Canada spec 240s were not available with the M45 transmission.

Now that you've identified which transmission you have, you can determine what type of fluid you need.

For all M46 transmissions, Type F or Type G Automatic Transmission Fluid is the easiest choice. Synthetic fluid (like Redline MTL) has been used with success, 10w30 motor oil can be used (but will afford less protection). Dexron fluid SHOULD NOT BE USED (one, two). Christ Herbst wrote an intersting summary explaining how various acceptable fluids (Type F ATF, RedLine MTL, Synthetic Motor Oil) work with an M46 transmission.

For all BW35, BW55, or AW55 transmissions you should use Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid. Period. If you can find a synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid that's compatible or designed to meet Type F (or Type G) specs go for it.

For AW70/AW71 transmissions you'll either need Type F or Dexron (note that the two are not compatible, should not be mixed, and putting one in a transmission designed for the other will result in problems). For 1982 and 1983 model year AW70 or AW71 transmissions you'll want Type F fluid. For 1984-1993 AW70 or AW71 transmissions, you'll want Dexron / Dexron II / Dexron III / Dexron IV Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Overdrive. Over time, it takes longer and longer for your manual transmission to engage that push button 5th gear. Or maybe you have an automatic transmission and you were driving down the highway, and suddenly it shifts into third gear and refuses to shift into fourth.

If you have an AW70, AW71, or AW72 automatic transmission, look here for some more advice.

ON TOP OF THE GEARBOX BELLHOUSING THERE IS A SENSOR (EASY TO SPOT,COUPLE OF WIRES COMING OUT OF IT),IT READS THE ROTATIONS OF THE FLYWHEEL, GIVE IT A PUSH DOWN THEN PULL IT UPWARDS A TINY BIT.I EXPECT IT WIGGLED ITS WAY OUT OF POSITION.THAT'LL DO THE TRICK ;)