Pontiac Aztek

first you must remove the screw on the bottom right of the radios molding. then remove that molding by prying it apart. then there are two screws one above and one below the hand grip located on the front part of the dash remove those screws. next under the steering wheel and above it there is a molding that meets in the middle insert a flat head horizontally and in an upward movement separate the two moldings. next tilt sterring down all the way. and forcefully remove the entire molding that is surrounding the cluster and extends out to that hand grip. next throw it in the back and you now have four screws to remove to complete the extraction of the cluster.

Remove the bolts in the U shaped connections in the front of the engine. Grab your wife, hubby, or friend, park on a flat surface, get behind the Tek and push forward. The engine will rotate have said helper hit the E-brake when the see the engine roll forward. You should have enough room to get behind and change the plugs

In order to replace the spark plugs on the back side of the motor, you must rotate the engine after removing the engine mount strut bolts. There is a special tool (J41131) to hold the engine properly for this procedure.

Disconnect the battery, remove hot wire from alt. Disconnect any hoses in front of coil pack, disconnect electrical plugs at alt., coil pack and move harness to side. remove screws that hold coil pack to bracket. There is enough room to get at the plugs and remove them

......put the car on a rack and go from the underside with a specialty tool. that's how mine were done

Answer #2 - Special tools and engine rotation isn't necessary. Put the front of the Aztek on ramps then set the emergency brake and chock the rear tires. You will be working under the car. Get a 3/8 inch ratchet with a long extension, a swivel, a spark plug socket and a standard deep well socket. Use the spark plug socket for removing the old plugs and the standard socket for installing the new plugs. The spark plug socket has rubber inside that holds tightly to the plug and this will make it difficult to remove from the new plug once tightened due to the limited working space. Progress will be slow and you will rely on feel. Positioning yourself and maintaining position will be somewhat difficult but the work itself is easy.

your heater core is leaking anti-freeeze.

Mrs. Buttersworth is paying you back for years of pouring too much syrup on your pancakes!

i have a quote from 280 - 400 $us

most likely you have a leak in the exhaust pipes or a bad catalytic converter

Umm... i think you are referring to the air self levelling system which levels the aztek according to the load. When you shut off the vehicle you will hear the air release after a few minutes.

i believe that is what you are hearing.

yes. The frontal plugs are easy, but the rear plugs require you to get your hand up in the engine from underneath.

pull fuse #28, (located in engine compartment),check to see if it is blown,i(t probably isn't), simply replace the fuse.

Pull fuse #28 (located in engine compartment), check to see if it is blown, (it probably isn't), Then simply replace it.

the pulling of the #28 fuse is only a temporary fix. you need to replace the bcm. (body control module)

Replace the BCM....IF your problem starts up after the car starts warming up. BCM heat shielding went bad and gives the problems when its hot. That's what happened to me.

Mine did this same thing. It was the BCM. Replaced and it's back to "normal." True though, pulling the fuse "fixes" it temporarily.

It could possibly that the wiring has come loose from the sensor or that it may be corroded.

I have a 2005 Aztec, the shifter has a "u" shaped pin located on the front towards the dash if you use a small screw driver you can loosen the pin enough, then use a small pair of plyer to put it out. The shifter will then pull up. Hint. With your foot on the brake...put shifter in low gear to create more space to access this pin

I hope you meant a keyLESS remote. Here ya go:

Important! Once the BCM enters program mode, all transmitters must be programmed at the same time. Any transmitters not learned at this time will be erased.

1) Remove the key from the ignition cylinder

2) Remove the BCM PRGRM fuse from the fuse panel

3) Close all the doors

4) Close the liftgate

5) Turn the ign lock cylinder

to the ACC. position

6) Turn the ignition lock cylinder

to OFF, and then back to ACC within 1 second

7) Open and close any door

A chime will be heard when the system enters the BCM programming mode

IMPORTANT!

After 7 seconds a chime may be heard confirming successful synchronization. It is necessary to wait approximately 14 seconds for a second chime that will confirm successful programming.

8) Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds

9) Repeat the previous step on each additional transmitter to be programmed.

10) Remove the ignition key from the ignition cylinder

11) Install the BCM PRGRM fuse back into the fuse panel.

I know I posted the above question but:

After research I came up with the following:

problem with the wiring harness that controls the gas gauge/low fuel, also, and AWD warning lights.

problem: if you had replaced the front hub on your aztek, the sensor in the hub could have been damaged.

problem: could be a damaged abs or transfer case????

solution: could be a wheel bearing even though you suspect sensor

its probably the rev limiter kicking in

fuctifino

i have that problem to it has something to do with the gear shift censor

khairul fahmi

I have had this same problem with my 04 Aztek. Until recently I could just turn off the ignition wait a few minutes and restart and that would fix. Just the other day I could not get it to reset, so I took off the shift cover and found that the wiring going into the shift sensor were all loose. I am currently trying to find a replacement for it. I have also heard that there is a problem with the BCM on some models that can contribute to this problem.

Check that you have the vehicle in the park gear position

It has happened to me a couple of times before

Good Luck

Juan DC

Check a tire retailer- they should have specs.

Also, you can check the side wall of the tire, and it will give you the max pressure for the tire. It is safe to add this amount of air, until you find out the proper inflation for your Aztek. Addition to answer: My 2001 Aztek has tires of two types, Eclipse and Bridgestone, and they say up to 44 psi. However, my manual says to look at the label on the rear edge of the driver's door. There it says 35 psi or 240 kpa both front and back. 60 psi for the spare.

I searched my DVD and i cant find any specifications but looking head on at harness ends from the right whihc is cavity A to left which is cavity E these are the wires- A GRY 435 EGR Solenoid Low Control B BLK 2753 Low Reference C BRN 1456 EGR Solenoid Position Signal D GRY 2702 5 Volt Reference E RED 1676 EGR Solenoid High Control

If you take it to Auto Zone they will change the bulb for you for free. When you purchase the bulbs you will get 2 of them and you might as well have both of them replaced at the same time because the other one will go within a week or 2 of the other.

1. Open deck led

2. Remove plastic covers (2)

3. Remove screws (2)

4. With a small screw driver pry on front of tail light to remove light from retaining pins

5. Remove bulbs

Replacing the front wheel bearing is a fairly simple process. First you must support your aztek with a jack. (Try to use one other than the spare tire jack if at all possible). Remove the lugs and tire and set aside. Next you need to remove the two brake caliper bolts on the inside of the assembly. Next pull the brake caliper off of the rotor, the brake line is short so the caliper should be supported with other means such as a chain or cinder block, anything so the caliper doesn't hang on the brake line. Next pull the rotor off of the hub bearing assembly. Next take off the axle nut, I believe it is a 33 mm. Next remove the three hub assembly bolts on the inside of the assembly, the one closest to the rear of the vehicle will need to have the harness holder removed from it first. Once those are off your all set. Push the axle in and pull the rotor off, make sure your careful with the speed sensor harness connector though as its very fragile and held on by only 2 thin wires. After that just reverse the process.

R134a