Pontiac Transport

here is what you need to do you need to buy one that goes cold and hot you only bought the one that goes hot

Where is Horn for 1997 Pontiac Transport?

it is a 2001 Pontiac Montana that has broken three bealts so far I need to know what pully I will need to replace?

The fuel filter is located outside of the unibody frame rail on the drivers side just back of the drivers door underneath. There are plastic snap clips that can be pried up with a screw driver and the new tabs just snap into place. For safety, disconnect the negative battery terminal before you start and have a collection pail ready.....MT

for 3800 V6.

Engine off, door closed

1. open glove box, open the fuse cover.

2. Remove the fuse marked "TAIL" from the fuse panel - it's the fuse in the bottom left position of the fuse panel

3. Wait 30 seconds,

4. put the fuse back in.

Cycle door open/closed with the buttons - wait 3-5sec before opening and closing door again.

Under the glove box on the right kick panel

trun motor off take key out go to the compressor put your hand flat on the front of the center hub and see if it will trun over & over a few times if it wont then it is locked up/bad but if it does trun by hand then splice a wire into the hot wire that plugs to the compressor with extra slack keep it clear of the belt trun car on set on max air then with it running tuch the other end to the ( + ) red side of your battery if the center hub / cluth starts trunning then the compressor is good , then your pressure may be too lo need at least 25lb to 45lb in system on the lo side if that's ok then check your lo pressure switch on or close to your evap- dryer it screws on and and has one plug with two wires. hope this helps you.

18-29 miles per gallon

I read on a forum where a guy just used a little screwdriver to open the lock mechanism, and then just lifted the gate open. It just might work.

The 1995 Pontiac Transport air conditioning relay switch can be found in the fuse box. The air conditioning relay switch will be at the top of the third column.

one cause could be hydro-lock. i.e. a cylinder full of fuel, which would be caused by a plug not firing repeatedly (filling it with unburned liquid fuel). this would be a bad coil, plug, plug wire, distributor cap or rotor, ect...

another cause could be pre-ignition. a cylinder firing when it is in the wrong part of its stroke, thereby causing the explosions "up-force" to fight either the valves attempt to open, or forcing a not fully seated valve closed. this would be caused by the timing being off its mark, though your damage would be more wide spread as it would effect multiple cylinders unless this is a single cylinder engine.

also, it could be caused by a stuck lifter, though that would ultamately lead to one of the 2 above causes.

there could be other causes, but that's the most likely 3 (short of a bad cam, broken timing belt/chain, ect...).

Do you really know how an engine works? i.e. a cylinder full of fuel, which would be caused by a plug not firing repeatedly (filling it with unburned liquid fuel). this would be a bad coil, plug, plug wire, distributor cap or rotor, ect...

THIS RATES AS THE DUMBEST ANSWER EVER POSTED. WHEN A PLUG FAILS TO FIRE THE UNBURNED VAPOR IS FORCED OUT BY THE EXHAUST STROKE THERE CAN BE NO ACCUMULATION IN THE CYLINDER NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES A PLUG MISFIRES. IF A VALVE IS NOT FULLY CLOSED THERE WILL BE NO PRESSURE ON THE PUSH ROD. PUSH RODS ARE BENT WHEN A VALVE STRIKES A PISTON RE; BROKEN TIMING BELT OR CHAIN OR JUMPED TIMING THERE WILL NEVER BE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO BEND A PUSH ROD IF A PISTON IS NOT AT THE TOP WHERE THE VALVE WILL HIT THE PISTON. Hydro- lock? not possible. The exhaust valve opens when the piston is at the bottom. The intake valve opens at the top. hydro-lock prevents the piston from reaching the top

205 7014 or 215 65 15 @ 35 psi

Rotate the Black handle Clockwise, it will make a noise. And then Gently pull. Turning it CCW will lock the door, and then it must be unlocked, by the Key or Automatic-Locks before it can be opened. If you look close these instructions are on the black handle.

took van to gm dealer. was the #3 and #6 coil pack

Bad fuel pump?

Sounds like your pcv valve. Use some good brake cleaner and clean it out, it'll be nearly as good as one from an auto parts. I had that same problem, but I found out that the van isn't actually missing it is the touque converter locking in and out. The mechanic told me you can get a different chip for it but it will still do it at a higher speed (around 55 mph) instead of 45 - 60 mph and you lose 2mpg. Mine started bucking around 40 - 45 mph when I would go to give it about a quarter throttle or if I was going up a hill. It was just enough to jerk the vehicle to be annoying like a miss (and I was sure it was a miss but it wasn't it just felt like it). But he told me there is no real fix! As the van get older like the motor mounts getting older and the tranny plates wearing you notice it more but it doesn't really hurt anything. Mine drove me crazy cause the check engine light never came on so there were never any codes to read because it wasn't missing.

The water pump has a weep hole on its bottom edge near the pulley, and that will be evident as leaking because the inside of the pulley will usually be greasy or muddy, and wet depending how long it has been leaking, and whether or not you were driving in a dusty environment while the pump was leaking. If the pump is leaking, it will be dripping from that weep hole

If it is a leaking gasket, the inside of the pulley won't be as wet, and the leakage won't be from the hole, but right from the joint between the pump body and the engine block.

I've also seen the leakage from the intake manifold gasket running down along the pump.

You'll need a decent light, and get yourself in an awkward position to see all this.

on the buttom of the block Can you please be more specific? Where exactly on the bottom of the block? Near what on the block?

First remove the screws/bolts that hold the windshield washer reservoir, then reposition the reservoir out of your way. Loosen the screws/bolts that secure the metal brace that is above the battery. Swing brace out of the way, so that you can have easy access to remove/replace battery. Once battery is replaced, replace brace and the washer reservoir.

front of the tranny facing the radiator. its either a square six prong plug or a round plug

first jack the vehicle up safely. then remove wheel, then remove cotter pin on outter tie rod, then remove the nut then unsrew the outer tie rod, the remove the inner tie rod boot. then install a long socket just for inner tie rods use 1/2 inch rachet then reverse procedure, then take van for an alingnment.

the is a relay switch i think on the right side of the transmission housing up near the exaust if that is what you are asking DARKSEID007

My Advice:

The relay should be located on the frame of the van behind the passenger side headlight inside of the engine compartment along side 2 other relays on a 3 prong bracket. I hope this helps you and if it still does not start then it is beyond my helpful area of knowledge. DARKSEID007

Are you mechanically inclined? have you ever done a brake job before? If you answer NO to both of these, then its best to go to a brake shop and have it done. Don't take chances with your safety by trying to save a few bucks. the work they do is also warranteed against failure. If you do it and mess up, its all on you.

If you say Yes to both, Do go find yourself a Hayne's repair book for the GM lunima/transport/sillohuette minivans. Its a good book to use because all the sequences show pics. The front discs are EASY. the rears are not too bad. Just make sure you have the front rotors and rear drum turned when you do. I keep an extra set of both on hand, and rotate them when its time. that way I have the rotors and drum read to install at brake job time. Its a hassle when you have to remove both or all, take it to the shop, wait for an undetermined amount of time to have them turned. Do it all ahead of time to make it easier and faster. When you buy new one, they don't need turning, but Do clean the break surfaces with brakleen before use. Take your old ones and keep them from rusting by storing them in a dry place. then when you go to the parts store to get your brake pads, you can drop off the units to be turned. when you go home you'll have ALL the parts you need to complete the job.

I don't, but change the oil and filter every 3000 miles religiously and you will be saved.

I did this with my 1996 Lumina APV. If you have rear speakers, remove the speaker cover(s), remove the speaker and reach in and find the mechanism, turn it to open. May have to do simultaneously for both sides. Then remove the tailgate panel and repair.