Power Steering

Is the belt missing? Maybe the tensioner is broken. your belt must be broken and missing ,that is about the only answer.

You drain and refill the power steering fluid by disconnecting the return line to the Power steering fluid reservoir and starting the engine and moving the wheel from lock to lock.

After doing this (evacuating all of the PS flulid) you need to refill the reservoir and move the wheel from lock to lock to get the air out of the system. It requires a hand held vacuum pump on the reservoir to "suck" all of the air out of the system. It can burn up your PS pump if there is air in the system. A better way to do it is to take a turkey baster and suck as much fluid as you can out of the reservoir and replacing it with clean fluid. If you do this every oil change the fluid will be clear and clean within 4 changes.

To take the power steering pump pulley off of many later model GM products requires a special puller made for that purpose. It is available from Autozone on their loaner tool program. The same set includes another puller to put the pulley back on.

Some water pumps also use the same style pulley.

passenger side under the alternator

Are you asking about the cruise control adjustment?

The switch you are asking about changes the "feel" of the power steering. You can go from "easy to turn" to "harder to turn" the steering wheel by moving the switch. Newer model Lincolns don't have this feature any more----I liked mine.

Multiple subs wired together must be the same coil type and impedance. If they’re not, the power won’t divide evenly between them, and some subs would probably be over-powered while others get under-powered. If you want to run different types of subs in a system, each type needs to have its own separate amp. Then, multiply the number of subs you have by the RMS rating of each, to get their total RMS rating. You want to make sure the amp you choose will supply no more than the sub system’s total RMS rating. Figure out the possible total impedance(s) that the subs can be wired together to form.

(SVC = single voice coil, 1 pair of terminals; DVC = dual voice coil, 2 pairs of terminals.) 1 SVC 2-ohms can only have 2 ohms of impedance

1 SVC 4-ohms can only have 4 ohms of impedance

1 DVC 2-ohms can have 1 ohm or 4 ohms of impedance

1 DVC 4-ohms can have 2 ohms or 8 ohms of impedance

2 SVC 2-ohms can have 1 ohm or 4 ohms of impedance

2 SVC 4-ohms can have 2 ohms or 8 ohms of impedance

2 DVC 2-ohms can have 2 ohms or 8 ohms of impedance

2 DVC 4-ohms can have 1 ohm or 4 ohms of impedance

3 SVC 2-ohms can have 6 ohms of impedance

3 SVC 4-ohms can have 1.3 ohms of impedance

3 DVC 2-ohms can have 1.3 ohms or 3 ohms of impedance

3 DVC 4-ohms can have 2.7 ohms or 6 ohms of impedance

4 SVC 2-ohms can have 2 ohms or 8 ohms of impedance

4 SVC 4-ohms can have 1 ohm or 4 ohms of impedance

4 DVC 2-ohms can have 1 ohm or 4 ohms of impedance

4 DVC 4-ohms can have 2 ohms or 8 ohms of impedance Look for an amplifier that can put out power up to the RMS wattage at an impedance load the subs can be wired to form. 8 ohms — figure on the amp putting out half the power it would at 4 ohms

6 ohms — figure on the amp putting out three-quarters of the power it would at 4 ohms

3 ohms — figure on the amp putting out the average of what it would at 2 ohms and at 4 ohms

2.7 ohms — figure the same as for 3 ohms, and add a few watts

1.3 ohms — use the 1-ohm spec and take away a few watts Example:

You have two Alpine S Series S-W8D4 8" subwoofers and you want the right amp for them.

They are DVC 4-ohm subs rated at 300 watts RMS each.

Two 300 watts RMS subs together need a maximum total of 600 watts RMS.

Using the chart in Step 2, 2 DVC 4-ohm subs can be wired together to form a 1-ohm, a 4-ohm, or a 16-ohm load.

The last is too high a load to be practical, so you’ll look for an amp that can put out up to 600 watts RMS into either a 4-ohm load, or a 1-ohm impedance load:

up to 600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms, or

up to 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

Among Crutchfield’s selection of amplifiers you’ll find:

Memphis Audio PRXA600.1 — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

JL Audio JD1000/1 — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms

Kicker KEY500.1 — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

Any one of these high-quality amplifiers would work well with those subs. It doesn’t matter which impedance an amp plays through — 600 watts RMS through a 4-ohm load produces the same volume as 600 watts RMS through a 1-ohm load.

You have a Memphis Audio SRX500D.1 amplifier and you want it to drive two subwoofers

The amp is capable of 350 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms and 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms.

Let’s say you choose to maximize the amp’s potential and want the system to put out 500 watts RMS. This means your subs have to be wired to form a total impedance of 2 ohms.

Two subs on a 500 watts RMS amp will want about 250 watts RMS each.

So you’ll look for subs each rated for 250 watts RMS or more.

Using the chart in Step 3, for two subwoofers, a final 2-ohm load can be achieved with either two SVC 4-ohm subs or two DVC 2-ohm subs.

So, you’ll look for two subs that are either SVC 4-ohms or DVC 2-ohms, rated for at least 250 watts RMS each:

2 SVC 4-ohms, at least 250 watts RMS, or

2 DVC 2-ohms, at least 250 watts RMS

Among Crutchfield’s selection of subwoofers you’ll find:

You have a Memphis Audio SRX500D.1 amplifier and you want it to drive two subwoofers

The amp is capable of 350 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms and 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms.

Let’s say you choose to maximize the amp’s potential and want the system to put out 500 watts RMS. This means your subs have to be wired to form a total impedance of 2 ohms.

Two subs on a 500 watts RMS amp will want about 250 watts RMS each.

So you’ll look for subs each rated for 250 watts RMS or more.

Using the chart in Step 3, for two subwoofers, a final 2-ohm load can be achieved with either two SVC 4-ohm subs or two DVC 2-ohm subs.

So, you’ll look for two subs that are either SVC 4-ohms or DVC 2-ohms, rated for at least 250 watts RMS each:

2 SVC 4-ohms, at least 250 watts RMS, or

2 DVC 2-ohms, at least 250 watts RMS

Among Crutchfield’s selection of subwoofers you’ll find:

Alpine W10S4 10" — SVC 4-ohm, 250 watts RMS

JL Audio 12W0v3-4 12" — SVC 4-ohm, 300 watts RMS

Kicker 44CWCS104 — SVC 4-ohm, 300 watts RMS

Rockford Fosgate R2D2-10 10" — DVC 2-ohms, 250 watts RMS

Hope this helps! (:

an electric tool

According to the 2005 Ford E-350 Owner Guide :

( Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power

steering fluid )

Great Belt Power Link was created in 2010.

It does not have a drain plug.

i dont know dont ask me ever again

Yes, if left on the hood for any extended period of tim.

You will need to borrow, rent or buy a special puller. Most auto parts retailers will allow you to use theirs if they thing you'll be buying the parts from them.

on the power steering pump bracket on the side closest to the battery look for a 1/2" square hole (incidently use this with a 1/2'" drive socket wrench to leverage belt tension after you put on the new belt when you get there) just below this square hole is the tension bolt for the power steering belt adjustment

NOPE!!!

Your in a bit of trouble here. Power steering fluid will cause the seals in your brake master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders to swell up. The system will definitely need to be flushed out. Remove the lid to your master cylinder open a can of brake fluid and turn it upside down while sticking it on the opening of yoru master cylinder. Much like the bottle of water on an office water cooler. Then go to each wheel and open the caliper and wheel cylinder bleeders. The fluid in your brake sytem will flush out emptying the container of brake fluid into your brake system. Do this a couple times and don't let the master cylinder run dry or you will get air in your brake lines. This may still be too late if the p/s fluid has damaged your seals. If your pedal dose not feel perfect take it to a garage

No you dont need to remove the power steering pump to get at the bolts. if you go directly down from the very bottom of the pully on the power steering pump the bolt holding the top of the alternator should be right there. all you have to do is remove it and the alternator should come out.

No, the power steering is a mechanical system that operates on hydraulic pressure. The hydraulic pressure is generated by the power steering pump that is attached to the front of the engine and receives it's power from the serpentine belt.

It is driven by a gear off the backside of the distributor housing, with fluid remotely fed by a tank located on the right fender. Low pressure fluid (ATF recommended) runs from the reservoir to the pump, high pressure from the pump to the rack, then the spent fluid now low pressure again to the cooler located on the left side of the radiator, and then up from the bottom of the cooler to the reservoir. Inside of the pump is pretty much unserviceable, and is built similarly to a A/C compressor, with a series of plates and holes that move fluid at alternating rates from front to back to build pressure.

Dexron IIE, Dexron III or Equivalent

The pump has a slot for adjusting the belt. The bolt to loosen this is reachable through the power steering pump pulley. Not much room, easier to reach form under the vehicle.

The advice offered above is good and is on the money. Here's my experience with replacing the drive belts on a 2001 Toyota Echo, and the steps it took to perform the task:

1. I'd highly recommend that you have the car parked on a pair of ramps, or work underneath the car in a car bay. The previous advice is absolutely correct, in that it's nearly impossible (unless you've got some really small hands) to reach the bolt that secures the power steering pump from above the engine.

2. I'd recommend removing the cowling on the passenger side of the car. It's really easy (think it's a total of five 10mm bolts and nuts) to remove, and you'll need all the space you can get for the job.

3. Loosen and remove the belt to the alternator / AC. You'll need a 12mm socket or open-end wrench.

4. Get a 14mm socket and a breaker bar to loosen the bolt to the power steering pump. As the previous author wrote, the only way to get to the belt is through one of openings of the pulley on the front of the power steering pump. You may have to "bump" the engine (slightly turn the ignition key so you can move the power steering pump pulley) if you cannot get a clear entry to the bolt. You might need some WD-40 if the bolt is rusted. Once you've loosened the bolt, you should be able pull the pump straight down with your hand.

5. Reassemble in the reverse order of these instructions, and make sure you've sufficiently torqued the bolts and the belts. The hardest part might be sufficiently torquing the power steering belt - you may need to be creative in how to torque the belt without damaging the pump (don't make a $200 "mistake" by getting careless). It's major annoyance to have to redo all of that work if it's not done correctly. Give yourself time to do the job. It may take a novice about an hour to do this job, and an experienced mechanic may take at least 35 minutes. Expect to pay the Toyota dealer at least $80 USD for labor and another $70 USD in parts for this job if you don't want to do it yourself.

The condition for correct steering is that the vehicle's wheels have to rotate at the same instantaneous center (found on the axis of rear wheels).

According to the 2002 Lincoln LS Owner Guide :

( MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power steering fluid )

Under the hood there is a cap, that is usually yellow, labeled with Power Steering. This is where a person can remove the lid and check the dipstick to check the level of power steering fluid on this truck.