Power Steering

It could squeal, squeak, moan, whine, groan, and leak oil.

It could squeal, squeak, moan, whine, groan, and leak oil.

were is the power steering pressure switch on a 1988 oldsmobile cutlass 2.8 engine

I just replaced the High Pressure Power Steering hose on my 2001 Kia Optima.

I found that the best way to do it was to remove the WHOLE hose from the pump side (easy), and then I removed the other end of the hose from the joint that goes into the steering box. Then I worked the whole hose assembly out of the engine compartment the best way that I could!

I tried to separate the two pieces back by the firewall, but that was unsuccessful. Even after I weaseled the whole hose assembly from behind the firewall by removing the firewall clamps and the whole air filter, I needed to use a torch and a vice (don't crimp the hose) to get the two pieces separated.

Of course, putting them back in reverse order was a lot easier!

On both front wheels, check the front and rear rubber bushings on the lower arm stabilizers where they attach to the frame. I had a 95 GA with both that of these wore out or shrank and caused the stabilizers to be looke and would clunk against the frame, mostly when braking.

something wrong with power steering. check for leaks. The power steering pump may also be broken. but whatever the cause is, it's a good bet it's power steering problem.

The steering box will be mounted on the left side of the truck (drivers) there are 3 bolts that will hold it there it will mount with the pitman arm facing down and the steering nuckle facing up the 3 bolt holes u will reach from the wheel well

i know its a bit different but all u need is ATF. beemers don't take power steering fluid at least that's what my brother told me

You'll need to examine it to find out which part is loose. Does it have a steering gear or is it a rack & pinion steering? Sometimes (not often) a steering gear can be tightened but attempt that only after you've checked EVERYTHING else. Also, what seems to be a loose steering can often be a misaligned front end. A good, reputable front end specialist can help you with the problem. Most cities have a well trusted front end shop who will honestly tell you what's wrong and charge you a fair price for the repairs. (HINT! It' probably won't be the guy in the dealership) Find out who is recommended by the shops that don't do their own front end work. Check with TRUSTWORTHY used car lots to see who does their work (again, the ones who don't do their own). The most difficult part is to find someone who has been in the business for a while and has a good reputation.

Green

No, it will just be a little harder to turn. Once you hit 5 mph, you wont notice it that much

Not true...

If your car comes factory with power steering and it stops working, chances are your out of power steering fluid. In this case you can burn up your power steering pump causing particles of the burnt pump to enter your steering box and that would cause damage. It could just wear it out (i.e. causeing loose steering) or it could bind up (i.e. wont turn completely in one direction intermittenly. If you notice your steering getting harder to turn, I would recomend you checking your fluid and toping it off if necesary.

U need to purchase a Chevy power steering pump removal/install tool. its a small pulley type tool and will take the pulley off of the pump. once its off, there should be 3 bolts that hold the pump in place.

remove cover from centre of steering wheel and you will see a nut undo it while holding onto the steering wheel with one hand and undo then pull the wheel towards you giving it a bit of a wiggle.

There is a specific tool for this operation. It is a power steering pump pulley puller. This grabs the groove in the end of the pulley and pushes the punp shaft away from the pulley. Available at your parts store.

Look for the lid marked power steering or check your owners manual. DO NOT PUT POWER STEERING FLUID IN THE WRONG RESERVOIR! Use a trany funnel(long flexable neck) or even roll up a sheet of computer paper into a funnel if you're stuck. Stick is attached to lid with min. & max. lines on it. Try not to overfill as it will leak out the reservoir when running and when it gets hot.

I'm working on it as we speak - it is a difficult job and I have a lot of tools and am fairly experienced. I got the new belt on but am having trouble getting the tensioner assembly back together. Carve out a day. If you're a novice, consider taking it in. The accessory belt in front of it is a piece of cake. 1) Loosen the nut on the idler pulley, 2) back off the tensioner with a 14mm socket gently (directly on top of the tensioner puller). 3) Back off the tensioner aways to make room for the new belt.

BiggDogg357:

It takes about thirty minutes to do both belts on the two belt configuration. Remove the passenger side tire and any covers. Loosen the idler pulley nut then go back up top and loosen the tensioner, this will allow you to remove the AC/alternator belt. From underneath you must loosen the power steering pump bolt on the back (if you have a racheting 14mm wrench it makes the job easier) then loosen the top bolt on the tensioner, then loosen the adjustment bolt on the bottom of the tensioner. Installation is reverse order.

Not necessarily but 99% of the times a whining noise emanating from the pump depicts it to be damaged by friction. It has minute fins which can be scratched by contamination or usage of wrong oil viscosity or with an insufficient oil level.

Sometimes a blockage in the system (usually pipes/valves) causes it to wear out quicker and has to be replaced along with the problem diagnosed and repaired or the new pump will also wear out soon. Also change the oil and properly bleed the system for any air trapped within.

transmission fluid can be used very similar to power steering fluid

transmission fluid can be used very similar to power steering fluid

Ever hear of the term, "Failure to Control"? Seriously, it's obvoius your brake pedal will keep getting closer to the floorboards. If it goes too far - you won't stop. Check all of your brake lines, from the Master Cylinder, all the way through to and including the wheel cylinders to make SURE there's not a leak somewhere. Also check the reservoir on top of the Master Cylinder to be sure it isn't seeping, too.

The 2010 Chevy Cobalt power steering wheel will cost you about $400.

The steering pump reservoir is towards the passenger side of the compartment, on the firewall side of the engine. It's not easy to get too, really. Viewing from the passenger side of the car, you'll not see it, because a wire bundle and terminal blocks your view of it. I just filled mine before answering this... I had to approach it from directly above the engine. I'm fortunate that I'm light weight enough to balance on the edges of the compartment. Even still, you'll need a long stemmed funnel to reach the reservoir.

Recommended oils for your steering system are: SeaStar Fluid, P/N HA5430 (1 quart), HA5440 (1 gallon). The following brands are acceptable: Chevron® Aviation Hydraulic Fluid A, Esso® Univis N15 or J13, Mobil® Aero HFA, Petro Canada Harmony HV115 (in Canada only), Shell® Aero Fluid #41, Texaco® HO15 and other fl uids meeting MIL SPEC H-5606-G. Automatic transmission fl uid (Dexron II®) may be used in an emergency. Never use brake fl uid. Any non-approved fl uid may cause ir rep a ra ble damage, loss of steering, and cancellation of warranty. In cases of extreme emergency any non tox ic, nonfl ammable fl uid may provide temporary steering. Generally, 2 quarts are required for single station, single cylinder fi lling. Add one quart per additional station or cylinder. Please note that SeaStar Capilanosystems use Dexron II ATF, not SeaStar steering fluid.

The steering gear is a rack and pinion type unit. To replace it:

1) Tie the steering wheel in place so that it cannot turn, then disconnect the steering column from the rack.

2) Disconnect the two hoses from the rack. Be sure to catch the power steering fluid and dispose of it in accordance with local regulations.

3) Remove the front wheels and the outer tie rod ends.

4) Lower the back half of the front subframe about 4 inches.

5) Unbolt the steering rack

6) Mounting hardware, then remove the rack.

7) Reverse this process to install the new unit.

8) Fill and bleed the powersteering fluid using the correct (+3 or +4) type of power steering fluid as specified in the owner's manual.

9) Set the toe-in.

Note that when starting the engine for the first time with the new rack it is critical to keep your body clear of the steering wheel. If you have accidentally reversed the fluid lines to the rack, the steering wheel may gyrate back and forth at high speed and with great force posing a risk of injury, or it can cause a hose to burst.

1000psi