Power Steering

Most cars that call for normal power steering fluid can take transmission fluid as a substitute but there are exceptions. Hondas MUST use power steering fluids that meet Honda's spec and must never use ATF. German cars must use Pentosin mineral oil that costs about $50 per litre. Some cars specify Dexron-III/Mercon ATF for their power steering systems like Nissan and Toyota. Just remember to NEVER use Ford Type-F ATF, only fluids that meet or exceed the Dexron-III/Mercon spec can be used as a substitute in vehicles that specify "power steering fluid".

Never put power steering fluid in the transmission.

The transmission and power steering are usually two different systems. The transmission drives off the back of the engine and the powersteering pump normally drives off a belt on the front of the engine.

Sometimes you have to remove the pump.

It is important to use the right types of fluids in a car. A 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier uses GM Power Steering Fluid or alternative fluids that meet GM specification GM9985010.

Loosen all visable bolts on power-steering pump (4.0 Liter only). Take a 12mm socket with approx. 4-6" ext. (3/8 drive will do nicely....) and reach UNDER the right-hand side of the pump, and you should find a tensioning bolt. Relax tension until belt comes off. You may need a small pry-bar to push unit inward once tension is released. Install is opposite of de-install. *NOTE: If you get the old belt off and forget how to put the new one back on, just remember, no matter what make,model, vehicle, the OUTSIDE of the belt runs on slick pullies, and the INSIDE of the belt runs on the pullies with raised grooves.............If you don't have PWR STR you'll probably have an idler bracket & bearing (rider's-side) with adjmt.......Hope this helps.

start by checking your front end for wear in the tierods and all other linkage. the I would suspect your steering box is shot.

Did this last weekend (2May09) and was a PITA. My experience was for a 2.7L engine. First make the engine safe by disconnecting the battery. Then Remove the belt driving the pump. Loosen the center bolt on the idler pulley then find the adjustment bolt that is to the passenger side from the pulley at about 10 o'clock from the front. Loosen this using a socket and long extension. Should turn easy and the belt will loosen. Then release the oil return line from the pump reservoir. It is held in place with a spring clamp. Just slide it back. Pull the oil return line off the reservoir and catch the oil in a pan. It will make a mess. You should remove the pressure hose which threads into the bottom of the pump. If you find a wrench that fits this space, then yea! I was not that lucky. Anyway, the rubber hose has a crimp on metal pre-bent tube that runs to the pump and attaches to the bottom at an odd angle. You can see it from above but just barely. It is rather tight. In case you could not get a wrench on the pressure hose, move on. Remove the three bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Access is through the holes in the pump pulley. Don't pry on the pulley as it is plastic. There is a split bushing that pushes into the pump for clamping pressure on the bolt at the 9 o'clock position. It must slide out to release the pump. Wiggle and pry the pump to get this to move. In my case, I had to release the wiring harness that passes just above the pump along the valve cover corner. This allowed the pump to tilt back enough to get a wrench on the above mentioned pressure hose fitting. Remove the hose fitting and lift out pump. You must use a power steering pulley puller to get the pulley off. I got a borrow tool from auto parts place. Remove power steering pulley. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the reservoir to the old pump. Transfer it to your new pump. Replace the O-ring with a new one (my kit had it included). Reinstall bolts. Reinstall power steering pulley using bolts in the removal kit. Do not hammer or press the pulley on as it will damage the small mechanical seal (ceramic) on the shaft inside the pump. Reinstall the pump in the its hole. Depending on your luck with the hose the steps will change. But in my case, I put the pressure hose back on using a new O-ring, installed the 3 bolts, put the return line back into place, reinstalled the belt and tightened it, filled the pump with ATF-4+ (TSB recommends this now), hook up battery and start it up. Run the engine and turn the steering fully to each side and back. Check and add fluid to reservoir as needed.

It is possible to drive with a bad power steering pump. However, this is not a good idea because the wheel won't turn as it should.

Power steering belt slipping?

If you pull the bolt next to the oil dipstick out of the power steering unit it will give you plenty of slack to get the belt off.

The power steering box is on the right side behind the motor close to the finder wall. Get a flash light and look behind the motor and don't try to reach it while the motor is hot.

It is either your axels or your cv joints. Not an important repair but it is annoying

Doesn't the C5 have the full Citroen Hydraulic suspension system? If so I'd expect the power steering system to be part of that, so it isn't topped up separately but fed from the main system for which you must use the genuine Citroen mineral-based stuff or a trusted alternative, because any of the "Conventional" types will ruin your fluid.

NO ! ( My Ford Explorer uses automatic transmission fluid as the power

steering fluid )

Check the "rack and pinion" assembly. You probably have a bad internal seal.

== You have a bypass on one of the teflon rings on the spool valve inside the rack. The housing could have a groove worn into it where it's by passing. You have a fault on your spool valve. www.powerbrakeandsteering.co.za

Brake dragging? Alignment gone bad? Wheel bearing shot? Lots of things sould cause this. The longer you wait the more expensive it will be.

When making changes to a car it is important to have a diagram to use as a guide. A person can get a diagram of the power steering layout of this car, by purchasing the cars maintenance manual.

Use a fluid such as Pyroil (Valvoline). Just look for a fluid that says it is formalated for a GM vehicle. Do not use a ATF such as Dexron.

Use a fluid such as Pyroil (Valvoline). Just look for a fluid that says it is formalated for a GM vehicle. Do not use a ATF such as Dexron.

google it, depends on which make and model and age and usage.

The most common cause of a vehicle squealing when it is cold outside is a belt. The belt could need tightening or replaced. You can buy a product at the auto parts store that may help.

Motorcraft MERCON ATF

in power steering pump. on front (with pulleys) of engine, should have cap that says power steering.

Well, since the Mazda B-series IS the Ford Ranger, as long as you were swapping from the same year, you shouldn't have an issue.

I've always just used ATF

A special puller and installer tool is required. Auto Zone and Advanced Auto Parts loan tools.