Repossession

around 15 mill for a crap small used one

unless you have a written and signed warranty, used cars are sold AS IS and there is no expressed warranty on a used vehicle

You need to be more concise so that you can get to your actual question before you run out of room. However I think I can guess what it would have been.

Assuming the trade in was his only credit and he didn't put any money down, there are several reasons the financing might have been for more than 17500.

First, 18500 is not an all-inclusive off-the-lot price. There are other fees and expenses that need to be taken care of. Taxes, for example. Many dealers also handle registration, so those may have been added to the amount being financed.

I recommend going to the dealer with the finance agreement and asking for a detailed explanation (if it's not already on there). If the dealer can't satisfactorily explain where the additional charges come from, then ask for them to be corrected. If the dealer refuses, then I'd let them know that they can either explain to you now, or explain to the Better Business Bureau and whatever agency handles car dealerships in your state later. If they're still obstinate, then go ahead and report them to both those places (at least; you might want to notify the local TV news also ... a lot of them have a consumer protection segment that might be interested).

There is no easy answer for that question. There are a few factors that matter when you are trying to return a bought vehicle. Did the dealership give you the car on the basis that you were approved but then got denied within a few days of buying the vehicle? If that's the case, you should be able to return it. Each state has its own laws on this matter so depending where you live will depend on all your options. The term "haven't been financed" does that mean you bought it in cash? Is the dealer a "buy here pay here" place? I would need more info to better answer your question. As a rule of thumb, you can return the vehicle, if the dealer "thought" you would be approved but you weren't, that's not your fault. Unless you gave fraudulent info, that could be another story. If you want to return a vehicle because you found a better deal somewhere else, good luck, most dealers won't be interested in helping you return a vehicle under that scenerio. You still may have options, but that would depend on where you live, and the laws in that state.

This question is so fact-specific that it defies an easy answer. Under most circumstances, I would say "yes," you can buy a new car. To buy a new car in Chapter 13 (or to finance anything for that matter), one has to request permission from the Court PRIOR to the purchase by filing a "Motion to Purchase," which describes what one wants to buy, why they want to buy it, and how much it will cost. One normally also has to address what impact the purchase will have on their monthly expenses (Schedule J) and how that may affect their Chapter 13 Plan payment (don't worry, your lawyer will take care of all these details). So long as the Court approves the new purchase, everything's roses. However, the situation may be one in which it is preferable to convert to Chapter 7, surrender the dying car, and buy a new car afterward, or it might be better to stay in Chapter 13 and finance the car, or it might even be best if one dismisses their Chapter 13 and then buys the new car. There are so many factors which could affect which option is in the debtor's best interest that it is imperative for the debtor to consult their attorney. Please note that nothing in this posting or in any other posting constitutes legal advice; this is simply my understanding of the facts, which I do not warrant, and I am not suggesting any course of action or inaction to any person.

Jose. DID they repo the car?? If not, I dont see how it could be correct.

Was this vehicle a repo at the time and were you paying the remaining balance to the collection agency or was the account a charge off? I am assuming that you are refering to Ford Motor Creit which I used to collect for. In most cases a 3rd party collection agency will purchase the account at pennies on the dollar or the account will be placed with a fee once the account is collected. It is the collection agency responsiblity to update the creditor of payments and in some cases update credit reports. Also it is a good idea to get a confirmed paid in full letter and to send it to the original creditor to make sure they update your credit report correctly.

A company by the name of KoverKrete Systems (see the link below or 407.246.7797) manufactures a product called "POOF" which removes concrete from concrete tools, mixers without harm to painted surfaces. This includes concrete that has been on these surfaces for an extended period of time.

I found mine in the backseat passenger panel. I found out I even had keyless entry....

Pay it off. It will still likely be repossessed.

No it does not

Yes, in Florida, you can remove someone's name from a car title, but the process typically requires the consent of the person whose name is being removed. This usually involves completing a form to transfer ownership or a release of interest, which must be signed by the individual being removed. Additionally, the Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles (DHSMV) may require a title application and payment of any applicable fees. It's advisable to check with the DHSMV for specific requirements and forms.

The most standard sized car is the mid-sized sedan. Most sedans are medium sized models with four doors, five seats, and 6 cylinders.

Chris, I dont know the laws in your state(you didnt mention where you are)but in my state, i do it all the time. I just wait till no one is home and unhook and go. Can you really "live" in a state park??

Whomever is charged with A&B needs to get an attorney ASAP.

1. 1. they cant "introduce" anyone after 9:00 Pm UNLESS you are up and about,
2. 2. Using ANY kind "BADGE" is using "color of laW" and that's NO GOOD.
3. 3, IF he was a cop, with warrant, he would have to show it t0o you.
4. 4. IF you tell them they CANT take the car, they LEGALLY cant.
5. 5. Call an ATTORNEY NOW

I don't understand what you mean by "limit potential liability". Parents are liable for anything a minor does regardless of whose name the car is in. If the parents are seeking to escape liability for accidents when the child is no longer a minor, then titling the car in the minor's name would be the way to go. This does assume they're comfortable with throwing their no-longer-minor child to the wolves.

was there a guarantee or was it sold as is?

WEBSITES

The reletting fee (not a "relenting fee") is a sum you pay to the landlord to cover the expenses incurred in reletting your apartment in the event you break your lease and move out before the end of the lease term. It should be reasonably related to the actual expenses incurred by your landlord in finding a replacement tenant (e.g, advertising costs, overhead, apartment personnel, etc.). The Texas Apartment Association ("TAA") seems to have chosen 85% of the monthly rental rent as the magic number. Regardless of whether this seems fair, it hasn't really been challenged in Texas courts.

Contrary to what some of the previous wikianswers to this question stated, the reletting fee is, by law, not a penalty. If you break a lease in Texas, landlords have a statutory duty to mitigate damages. This duty cannot be waived by contract, even if you agree to do so. Thus, charging a penalty is against the law. However, charging a fee to cover expenses in finding a replacement tenant is not. Keep in mind this is different than a liquidated damages agreement, whereby your landlord agrees to release you from your lease for a set fee. This is not considered a re-letting fee. Rather, it's an amount you've agreed is what your landlord is entitled to as damages for letting you out of your lease.

There is no such policy. Once you buy a car, it is unreturnable unless it's a lemon, and that is strictly defined by law. There's no 3-day cancellation policy or anything like that. By signing a contract, it was assumed that you are a reasonably intelligent adult with the power of decision. You could try to work something out with the dealer, but the car is yours.

Yes there is a used car in Georgia.

you went to a car dealership, didnt you? You DIDNT go to a casino. Did you sign a loan contract?? The B/K trustee and the manu. of the car will be looking for the car. Dont worry you wont have to pay TAXES on the gift of the car.

value is what a seller is willing to take for a vehicle and what a buyer is willing to pay for it. at that point what is worth NADA,Blue Book,Black Book are only guides impound doesnt hurt the value.salvage title or damage will.

Hopefully not a "blow-out" Yeah, that too. If you have wire-spoke wheels on just about anything that isn't a recent BMW, you have an inner tube. Typically, one piece "mag" wheels will be tubeless. Inner tubes will tend to lose air more quickly than tubeless tires, but either way, you may feel the steering response to be a little heavier or more vague than before. You may see the contact patch between the tire and the ground has grown larger. But at that point, it's too late, usually. The best way to detect low air pressure is with a tire pressure gauge. Follow the motorcycle manufacturer's recommendations for inflation pressure (NOT the maximum pressure imprinted on the tire sidewall). Running even a few pounds low can begin to affect handling and your safety. Too much is a bad thing also. Check pressure early and often. If your tubed tire has gone flat, and you don't have tire spoons and all that archaic stuff, you're probably walking. With a tubed tire, you may have some success plugging the leak if you can find it. and you have a kit to repair it. But motorcycle tires are of different design than car tires and are subject to different forces when moving. They are not really designed to be repaired, so I'd consider plugging one only if circumstances outweighed the danger of riding on a plugged tire, and then only at low speed, under light load, for only a finite distance.