Rodeo Events

The first thing to do is disconnect the battery from the truck. Then you will need to lossen the belt off the enginge. In order to go that their should be a tension puller on the front that a simple rachet and socket will do. you turn that till it lossens the belt and slide it off the alternator. If it doesn't have tension pulley then the alternator has a bolt that you lossen it to get the belt off. After you get the belt off you need to dissconect the wires on the back of the alternator then you can take the two bolts out of the alternator and simple pull it off.

It would be the contractors. The bronc riders have to supply their own saddles and girth/flank straps. If they also supplied the halters, then they would control which bucking horse they get, which isn't fair in rodeo competitions. Bronc riders select which horse they ride by pulling a name out of a hat, which is much more fair than them choosing which horse they should or even can ride.

Essay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU TAKE OFF THE AIC AND THE HOSES WHERE THE PCV IS DISSCONNECT THE ALT AND ALL BLTS AND THE LOWER PLASTIC SHIELD AND IT COMES OUT THE TOP JUST BE GENTLE

I have had to do this twice, and the easiest way is to go from underneath. Start by removing the Air conditioning unit. Don't unscrew the Top hose on the A/C compressor unit unless you drained the fluid out (I did this and had quite a show). You can usually push the A/C Unit to the side after you remove the four long bolts and work on the Alternator, that way it is much much easier. The mounting bolt is the trickiest part, especially the flat one that goes on the top. (Once I sat out in the yard pushing the alternator upward thinking it needed to mount on the upper portion of the engine, then I noticed the grooves in the mounting bolt hard a sharp edge etched into it.) That's when I discovered a kind of indented part of the engine block next to the alternator (it had the sharp edge (a sharp corner) ). After that it was a lot easier to figure out that annoying Bracket or whatever you want to call it.

The Last mounting bolt for the alternator is behind the AC Unit you have to move it out of the way, or you will never be able to remove the alternator.

After all the bolts have been removed, it is easier to remove the alternator from the top. Someone needs to push the AC Unit up and towards the engine.

ANSWER

Get the car up on jack stands supported on the control arm pivots.

Remove the front air intake.

Remove the cooling fan.

Remove the horn.

Remove the splash guard in the right side wheel well.

Remove the right side front splash guard.

Take off the serpentine belt. Remove the tensioner pulley.

Dismount the A/C compressor but do not open the hose connections on it.

Hang the A/C compressor by a Coat hangar wire so it's away from the alternator.

Take out the two bolts on the top of the alternator top bracket.

Remove the alternator pivot bolt.

Take the alternator out from the top.

Put in the new alternator and get it all back in place and TIGHT.

When the car reaches the speed that you would like to attain (say 55 MPH) and levels off (stays at 55 MPH) the engine does not require as much gas as when you are getting up to speed (0 - 54 MPH). So considering this, Overdrive is when you get up to speed and the amount of gas put into the chambers is reduced, (but you still continue at 55 MPH) saving tons of gas and is easier on your engine. The overdrive on/off switch controls the transmission. If overdrive is off (indicated by light on dash) vehicle will not shift into overdriven gear (4th gear); which can be useful for mountain driving. Overdrive should be on though as it will greatly effect your gas milage if it is off.

big job requires a lift as it comes out the bottom and i have replaced many radiators that novices have ripped a hole in getting the alt. out

I have the same problem with my 1995 Rodeo. I lost the speedometer and had a bit of a learning curve. I replace the speedometer gear and it work well for a few days and went out again. It cost about 45 dollars, (For the Gear) I was kicked out of a Isuzu dealer when I went back and talked to a mechanic about the problem. Luckily I managed to get the answer before I was asked to leave.

He mentioned that the gear housing also need to be replace at the same time as the new gear. The reason being that it creates it's own type of wear in the housing. Being that the housing was metal I was bracing for the worst. I was shocked when the metal housing was 22 bucks. The other shocker was that I changed it out just out side the dealership. Its very easy to do, one bolt and it drops right down. I placed the new gear in and then the metal housing and was back on the road in less than 10 min.

So the answer to the question is you need to replace the housing and gear at the same time! I was shocked that it worked fine after I replaced the metal housing that holds the gear in place. I hope this works well for you, it worked fine for me.

PS. I tried a junk yard part first and had problems, buy new its cheaper. Best of luck Paul.

It's a real pain. It can be done though. I recommend you have a service manual handy, at least to get the torque specifications.

The Bentley manual would have you take the bumper cover off, then remove the radiator support and swing the radiator, ac condenser, bumper structure all off to the side. That seems like a lot of work, but might allow direct access to the alternator.

You can however get the alternator out from below (not above, the intake manifold will be in your way). These steps are from memory and will not apply to the 4 cylinder models.

First get the car in the air, either jackstands or ramps. Now that the car is in the air you must remove all the splash shields from under the motor.

REMOVE THE NEGATIVE CABLE FROM THE BATTERY TERMINAL...or both if you like. The last thing you need is some sparking while you're working or to ruin your new alternator.

Remove the cover from the side of the engine (skinny one that covers the belt, you don't need to remove the larger one holding the spark plug wires).

Remove the serpentine belt. (Is it time for a new one?) This is done by putting a M8x1.25 bolt in the top of the tensioner to release the tension. Only drive the bolt in enough to remove the belt. I prefer not to keep the spring under compression so let the bolt out afterwards, might as well leave it in part way though. Now remove the tensioner (blocks a bolt for the alternator. 3 bolts, 13mm, one super hard to get at.

Now it's time to go under the car again, remove the power steering pump and the AC Compressor. Remove the power connector(s) on the AC Compressor Clutch first. The P/S pump is pretty light, but you might want something to support the AC Compressor.

You can now get to the alternator, remove the electrical connections first, now the bolts. Some bolts might be easier from above. By this time you might want an assistant. After the bolts are out you'll be wondering why it didn't fall on your face, yeah...it'll take some work, and it's going to be a tight fit.

Now compare your old alternator to the new one...make sure the pully on your new alternator is correct (7 spline belt, not 6 like the 4cyl cars). Mine was incorrect and I had to move the pully, requiring a 12pt driver set to hold the spindal. You don't want to install the alternator more than once if you don't have to, so check now.

--BREAK TIME-- drink a beer, get one for your friend that agreed to help too.

Okay...you're half done and it will go a little faster now because there's going to be a little less fighting with stuff. Now, back under the car!

Alternator goes back in, connect the cables.

AC goes back in, connect the cables.

P/S Pump goes back in.

Put the tensioner back in, don't over torque, it mounts to the head, and it's aluminum, you can strip it out without realizing if you're not careful (ask me how I know).

Tighten that bolt back into the tensioner (you left it in so it didn't roll away right?) Install the serpentine belt (don't remember the path? shame on you, search the internet or figure it out, it's not hard). Remove the bolt, put it in your tool box for next time.

Reconnect the battery. Start the car. Battery light should go out, lights aren't flickering? If so it looks like you succeeded, congratulations! Turn off the car.

Put all the splash shields back on underneath and the engine covers on top.

Lower the car. Clean the garage. Drink more beer or go driving...

loosen the serpretine belt tension and remove the two bolt that hold the alternator

-remove turbo piping over engine (if applicable).

-remove cold air intake pipe (connected to air filter box).

-remove auxiliary belt.

-remove wire harnesses and coolant expansion hose from top of auxiliary fan.

-remove 2 bolts at the top holding auxiliary fan in place.

-remove auxiliary fan (disconnect wiring connectors as necessary).

-loosen two bottom bolts on A/C compressor.

-remove two top bolts on A/C compressor (also holding the bottom of the alternator).

-remove one top bolt on the alternator (beneath the power steering pump pulley).

-pull alternator toward front of vehicle and and out.

ECM stands for Engine Control Module (computer that controls the engine and other ). For 2000 Isuzu rodeo v6, this is located on the left side of the car under the hood . right behind the air filter enclosure

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under the left side seat

try this. while holding pressure on the key towards start, turn the wheel to the left and then to the right in short motions but as far as you can. if the steering column is locked then the key wont turn because of pressure being put against the locking cam. if this does not work then you are probably going to have to replace the ignition.

raise hood and then jerk out your pistol ,take a general aim and then calmly empty the clip into that piece of turd. i have one myself and all i do is work on the junky motherflipper. so when you get started put one in the prick from me.

I did this a couple of years ago, I ended up removing the radiator. It's annoying but life will be better if you do. 324,000 miles and still going!

I just replaced the alternator on my Dynasty... hopefully I can be of some help. First of all, disconnect one of the battery connections. Next, you will need to take off the serpentine belt. To do that, I put a box wrench on the bolt that is on the center of the tensioner pulley and push the end of the wrench with a long 1 X 4 piece of wood...The area around that bolt is very crowded so you will need something thin to fit in. Anyways, the idea is to push back on the wrench so it removes tension off of the belt. Keep it pushed back until you (or someone else) can slip the belt off of a pulley. I usually don't take the serpentine belt off of every pulley ... I just want slack so I can get the alternator off. It's easier to put back on if you can leave the belt mostly in place. Next, remove the wiring connections/harness from the alternator. Move the harness off to the side where it is out of the way. There are two bolts that hold the alternator in place. The top one is easy to remove... the bottom one is trickier. It is a tight spot to get the nut off the front but I had trouble getting the bolt out. On my Dynasty, I had to remove a bracket (engine mount bracket?) before I was able to slide the bolt all the way out... the head of the bolt kept hitting this bracket. Anyways, there are two nuts that hold the bracket in place... take those off to remove the bracket. With the alternator in place, you probably wont be able to see the nut under it... just feel around and remove it with your socket wrench. With the two bolts out you can now remove the old alternator. It's a very tight fit but it can be lifted out of there... you almost need a shoehorn. Ha! Pop the new alternator in, replace bracket, put on wiring connections, put belt back on and then hook up battery. Presto! I hope this info helped. Regards, Gary in Princeton, MN

Take it to a mechanic....

use a 12 mm extended ratchet to loosen the accessory belt tensioner (remove belt)

Unbolt the alternator from the engine chassis and unplug the positive and negative terminals.

New Alternator Costs about $200, New Starter Costs the Same.

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Hi, I am certainly not an expert but I do have a 87 Maxima ( vg30e engine ) and to gat at that alt. you are best to take off the pass front tire then the plastic shield on the fender and the area opens up to you. Very snug quarters on the Max. don't know for sure about the Stanza. I think they have a 4 cyl.?

There are only two bolts. Loosen both, so that you can get the belt off. Then take them all the way out, and the thing'll fall right out, pretty simple.

First, remove the negative battery cable. Then remove the wires off of the alternator then the bolts that hold it on and then remove the alternator. The schematic for the serpentine belt should be on the fan shroud. If not, draw one before removing it. Don't rely on memory.

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Rodeo is probably the most common.