Suzuki Sidekick

it sends like a message to the computer telling the car when to switch gears. When that goes out u probably only have the set gears below drive.

A geo tracker gas tank should work on a sidekick from the same year or body style.

It changes the shift pattern of the transmission. You want to have this switch off at all times unless you are hauling some weight (i.e. a trailer). If you switch it on you will notice the transmission will delay the shift to ensure there is enough power to compensate for the added weight.

Well, it's been many years since I had a Suzuki Samurai with 1.3 engine...best source for you is to find a HAYNES manual and follow through their instructions.

BUT, at a high level review, here's how I would approach it to at least get things to the point the engine would run, even if not at its top efficiency or smog rules setup: The "#1" cylinder is the one closest to the front of the engine. Follow it's spark plug wire back to the distributor, and remove the distributor cap. One end of the rotor will have a metal tab...you are close to the #1 firing position when the rotor metal tab approaches where the #1 cylinder spark plug wire connects to the distributor post.

Also remove the valve cover (just a couple or 4 bolts)so you can watch the #1 rocker panels for intake and exhaust to cyl #1.

Pull the #1 sparkplug so you can look in the hole or jently probe w/wood stick. (so you can see when the piston is at the actual absolute TOP (highest) DEAD CENTER position.

Put a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley (make sure your ignition key is off so you don't accidently start the engine), and crank it slowly clockwise while watching the two valves for #1 cylinder. You want the piston to be as top as possible, with BOTH valves closed (that is, no slack in them)...that is "top dead center", and at the same time the rotor from the distributor should be pointed toward the #1 cylinder spark plug connection. If the valves are not both tight, or the piston is not at 'top dead center', or the distributor rotor is not pointed toward the #1 spark plug wire, you aren't there, keep slowly rotating the engine in a clockwise position until you are at top dead center, with the distributor pointed toward #1 sparkplug wire, and both intake and exhaust values "tight". THAT is top dead center on your compression stroke!.

Once you have all those things going for you you have reached "top dead center" for cylinder #1. ISTR that timing should be around 10 degrees BEFORE top dead center, so back the crankshaft enough that you are now 10 degrees before top dead center. hook a wire up to the distributor spark plug wire, with the cap on and the ignition switch on, and slowly rotate the DISTRIBUTOR until the power is through to the #1 spark plug wire.

OK, you are now 'static timed' to about 10 degree before top dead center. Give the engine a try, see if it fires up. NOTE this is NOT as good as doing an official timing as described in the Haynes manual...but it should be close enough to get your engine into a running condition.

Note that the Samurai's and many other engines use a master computer control to auto adjust things. So sometimes you might be adjusting the timing to advance or retard it, yet the computer is also sensing when the timing is set, and making adjustments via the computer to alter the timing advanced or retarded from what it really is to what the computer wants it to be. So sometimes doing seat of the pants adjustments like this can be tough...the computer will "fight you".

The above procedures have worked for me on many different vehicles, but it is a backyard shade tree mechanic mechanism. (To show how much by the seat of the pants...I used to adjust my '72 Pontial LeMans w/350 cubic inch V-8 by getting it close...and then driving up a hill as fast as I could. If I didn't hear 'pinging', I would then advance the timing just a tiny bit and race up the same hill again. If I made it up faster, great, my timing was better! Eventually I heard pinging from the engine, indicating pre-ignition and possible engine damage if left like it was...so at that point I was advanced just a bit too much, would back off (retard) the ignition just a bit, and try racing up the same hill all over again. Eventually I would be able to get my fastest acceleration up the very steep hill, without hearing any pinging from the engine. When I got to that point, I was done timing the engine. Gee, was it 7 degrees BTDC, 10 degrees BTDC, other? I don't have the faintest idea...I just know the engine was performing the best it could and giving the quickest acceleration without any pinging. It worked for me...but probably would not pass any "smog inspections".

So use all of this advice with your own caution. While what I described should be able to get a completely off-timed vehicle close enough to run, you really need to get the Haynes manual and follow the real precise instructions on how to set the timing.

Good luck!

My book told me to fill them until it started running out of the transfer case and differencial. Worked fine for me...

http://www.kick-fix.com/IGN_timing/index.html

only on NON sports.

Sports dont have them.

under the dash above the fuse panel

On the lower end of the engine - try to follow the + battery cable

just honk it and listen. gee.

the horn is in the front of the radiator.

Is this a 2-door or 4-door Kick? Front or Rear? I'm pretty sure they're the same, but I would have to go home and look at my 95 2-door and my 95 4-door.

Here's what I remember - it might not be right, but I think it is: If you open the door, you'll see the hinges. You can just unbolt the hinge from the door pillar, or you can punch out the hinge pins.

I have a Suzuki Samurai convertible. Be careful when you install the top that all loose flaps around the bottom of the removable top fall to the outside of the vehicle. These flaps can fall to the inside of the body and direct water in instead of out. I've had that problem before and this corrected it. You might also check the holes or slots on the inside bottom of your doors. They should be open to allow water to drain through them. They can get blocked by debris and allow water to get in the cabin. Good luck!

the bolt on the right side , behind (rear) the level check plug must never be

touched or loosened. (tranny in car)

If you have vacuum activated power brakes (big diaphragm) and you have a leak, this will cause 2 different symptoms. Some cars will notice a raise in the idle, and some cars will stall when you hit the brakes. Check the hose that is connected from the intake manifold to the power booster diaphragm for cracks.... Heat dries out hoses and plastic....and oil rots hoses that aren't designed to handle oil.

Try at least four, check the dipstick and see where you are from there. I have a '92 with a '98 engine and it uses four quarts.

as loong as they are both the 4srtoke sport models yes some 230s had a auto clutch those parts wont work on the 250s sport clutch

On most vehicles, a bad o2 will cause the chech engine light to come on, decrease in fuel mileage, and varioius runing problems including: surging, running rough, stumbling.....

1-3-4-2 Distributor rotates counterclockwise.

About $160 for manual locking hubs from JC Whitney, Chicago

the normal / power switch only found on 4speed A/T is on the shift console.

the PRNL switch is on the side of all A/T transmisions.

It is under the hood on the drivers side. Close to the windshield. The Suzuki Esteem, has two fuse blocks. You can find one of them under the hood, on drivers side, but it's another one under the dash, drivers side right side to the hood opener handle.

ECU is directly behind , left front speaker.

Because of an electric fault

go under the car with a 14mm spanner and undo the adjustment nut, also undo the nut that passes thru the clutch lever (sticks out the side of the gearbox) Slide the end of the cable out of the fork, and then remove the 14mm locking nut that holds the sheath of the cable in postition. This completes the 'clutch' size of the cable. Then using a 10mm spanner remove the 2 bolts/nuts in the engine bay where the clutch cable run into the cabin. In the drivers footwell stick your hand up and unhook the hook on the end of the cable off the top of the clutch pedal. Install is reverse of removal but requires you to tighten the clutch cable by tightening the nut on the clutch end of the cable. (you will know when you see it)

the fuse is in the fuse pannel below the dash on the drivers side . the pannel has a cover on it that has a guide telling what fuse protects what circuit . the electronic fuel injection system is coded as FI a 15 amp (blue ) fuse . i found this out from my owners manuel for my 95 sidekick 4 door model 1.6 16 valve engine .hope this helps . PS on mine i pulled the fuse in and out while the key was turned on (engine off) and you can hear the relay click . sounded like its under the hood . i am still tring to deturmine if my fuel pump is gone as mine wont start .