Toyota Previa

It is under the driver seat next the transmission oil stick.

Open the tailgate and look between the tail light assembly and the tailgates weather striping. You will see two galvanized Phillips head screws. Remove them and pull outward and the tail light unit will pop out. The bulbs are screwed into the back of the tail light assembly.

Front grail

This is not an easy one. I recommend that you have an auto shop do it.

However, if you want to give it a go, read on ...

This problem is the now infamous, "SAD Axle" (technically, the "Auxiliary/Accessory drive shaft") repair; the bushings at either end tend to wear out between 150,000-250,000 miles such that the car squeaks at low rpm's. It's not a dangerous condition, but certainly is annoying and can be embarrassing. This axle couples the engine to the water pump and alternator, and goes from the engine forward.

To begin with, you need a lift or good jack stands and a metric socket set. Also, you will need a set (2) of new SAD bushings (either aluminum or plastic). The Toyota kit is Part #D4374 (04374-28010) and costs about $225. The most reasonable SAD bushings are found at ebay.com (search "Toyota Previa SAD" or "Toyota Previa bushing") and be sure to get the one that corresponds to your model year. Also, www.previaparts.com has good pictures of the SAD axle and bushings.

A pro can do this repair in about 30 min-2hr, but an amateur will take 4-6 hours. Locate the SAD shaft beneath the engine. Take a picture of it (maybe a couple of closeups too) for reassembly and alignment later. Remove the three bolts on the (rear) engine side to remove it with the back bushing. Loosen the air conditioner and the alternator belt tension. Remove three bolts from the pulley assembly and 4 bolts/2 nuts from the center support. Remove three bolts from the front bushing and remove the SAD shaft from the vehicle. The front bushing will be much harder to reach than the rear bushing was. Install new front and rear bushings; reinstall the SAD shaft in your Previa. Reconnect and tension the pulley, support, and a/c and alternator belts. You're done!

There is an arm at the left side of the bottom roller. This arm can be bent or broken (like mine). Either get a new arm if needed or go to a dismantler and buy a used one and replace it. It is held in place with a single bolt (12mm I think).

remove the pan at the bottom of the transmition. CAREFULLY, peal the filter from the pan gasket and unbolt the two 10mm bolts from the center of the filter and away you go.

It means you are having a problem with the charging system. Have the alternator and battery checked. Good Luck!!!

please give me the answer what the meaning afs off? Answer: Intelligent Adaptive Front-Lightning System = Changes the direction of the headlight based on the cornering angle.

Check the fuse first, its in the fuse box under the steering wheel, near driver's left knee. The fuse of interest is the one labeled "ACC".

This a common fault with the waste-gate actuator,oil damages the diaphragm inside which stops waste-gate opening causing turbo to overboost, This brings up a warning light.if its not fixed it will damage turbo.visit www.turbodoc.co.nz they have new actuators and rebuilt turbos to cure this problem

How do you replace cabin air filter in 1995 Toyota Previa?

Try and get someone to read the ECU codes, that will tell you if the problem is from the "Knock Sensor". If it is you will need to buy a new one and replace it. They are very expensive and can only be got from a Toyota Dealer. To fit your self Drill a hole under the front seat(Directly above the sensor) and replace from there. If you dont want to drill a hole you will have to drop the engine and that is not a cheap option on a previa.

I'm not too sure on this but the handbook tells of a fuse box in the 'front compartment' (engine compartment?). This contains 5 fuses/relays. The second from the bottom covers the "FR-WIPER" amongst other things.

Disassemble your dash, the control unit is right behind the instrument cluster. Its the square box along the wire bundles

remove the screws and then apply pressure using your hands over the light housing pulling or pushing, whatever is easy for you, it has to be "slide out". I used the help of a flat screwdriver to pull the metal SNAP CLIP from the hole that that hold the light in place. do it very carefully. I hope this one help.

engine coolant temp sensor.

Sounds like "heater core" is shot-any coolant leaks inside the car coming from under the dash?,

Have check, replaced.

Or could just be an air lock in coolant system, which is better easy fix.

If the radiator or reservoir cap is bad it could cause overheating because the system will not build up the proper pressure. Also the fan clutch could be worn out which would keep the fan from spinning fast enough to cool the radiator.

ECT power is Electronically Controlled Timing. What this does when the switch is engaged is activate what is now known as variable valve timing. Basically this means that instead of relying on mechanical timing components the "brain" takes over. As previously stated the car will shift at higher RPM, you could say this is like a sport mode that allows the car to produce maximum power.

I just copied this from a later post; you have to find out which o2 sensor you need first. when you find out which sensor by getting the code with an obdII scanner. it will say o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 or o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (#1 is in the exhaust pipe closest to the header or exhaust manifold assy, #2 is also in the exhaust pipe but is after the catalytic converter) buy the correct part based on the code. replacing it once found is simple. remove the 2 12mm nuts that hold it in, slide it out of the pipe, remove the old gasket, and unplug the sensor from the harness. then replace the gasket, put the new sensor in where the old one came out, install and tighten the nuts, then plug it in. clear the codes with the scantool or by removing the negative battery terminal for a minute or so then replacing it, and you're all set

If you have 15" inch rims, the default factory tire size is p215/70.

The ECT PWR, is a so called Extra Power feature. When in fact the car does not produce more HP, but rather changes the shift timing. In fact when ECT PWR is on, the shift is delayed allowing more power to be put to the wheels before the car shifts to its next gear. This is more of a sport function, which in turn i find makes the car more enjoyable to drive, however fuel consumption is increased, and if you are really stomping on the accelerator, your transmission may endure more abuse and wear from this. However i personally drive with the ECT PWR function on.

Hope this answers your question!

Josh

== == Could possibly be a heater core leak. Coolant is getting blown up through the vents when you have the heater on. May need to do a heater core check and replace. if you have the a A C on it means that your A C freon its leaking, also if you run the AC on with one window open it will create smoke fron the humidity coming in to the car if it's white somke it's dangerous "cause it will put you to sleep while you drive and you will not feel it..

Lodge something under the release lever or have someone hold it up while you open the fuel door. the is a spring on the hinge of the fuel door, when it breaks the door will not pop open as usual . It take something to hold the lever up while the door can be pried open easily until you find a repair spring. It took 1 hour to find this answer on the internet but it beats tearing my fuel door apart.

Adding to this answer:

I have found an easy fix that does not require paying Toyota an arm and a leg and the promise of your son's arms and legs to repair. It requires a 9-12 inch bungee tie down strap, a Phillips screwdriver, and the spring bar from a French barrette style hair clasp.

The easiest way to hold the release lever up is to use a short bungee tie-down strap (about 9" to 12" long). push one end underneath the driver's seat from the back and hook the hook around the top of the release lever. Stretch the bungee cord and either wedge it between the bottom of the seat and the adjusting slide rail or hook the other end around the seat belt sleeve near the mounting bolt. The latch will then be released, and the cover can be opened easily.

After releasing the latch and opening the fuel tank door, loosen the top left Phillips head screw that holds the filler tube assembly in place (to the top and right of the fuel tank lid's hinge); open the barrette and remove the spring bar; slide one forked end of the spring bar beneath the screw's washer until fully seated; re-tighten the screw, leaving the other forked end free (this will allow the spring bar to compress when the fuel tank door is closed and expand again when the release lever is pulled.

A blank French barrette style hair clasp costs as little as $0.12 each when bought in bulk and can be found in most department or craft stores. This fix works very well, will last as long as a barrette hair clasp lasts--months, maybe years--and it's low cost and easily replaced.

Al

"USED" parts can be purchased from any local junkyard, or ebay, or you can steal one from your neighbors car.

the bearing is one non-dissasemblable unit, it has to be pressed out and in. best done by someone who has the right tools.