Toyota RAV4

305 V8

Make sure the Odometer is NOT in the trip mode.

Turn off the ignition, then press the trip button and hold it in. Turn on the ignition. The odometer will turn to all dashes and start to count down and turn to all zeros. When the Odometer returns release the trip button and you are done.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Toyota_rav_4_maint_required_light_2008"

What you need to acces is the factory amp/control for the radio which is under the dash right and above the gas pedal. Wire your radio harness and get your antenna adaptor. Unbolt and remove the factory amp and using the harness you unplugged, plug that into your nes harness and plug your new antenna adaptor to the mini gm antenna. remove the center panel between the cluster hump and glove box. pull the wires up from the bottom left of the hole in the dash. Take the new dash kit and put in the cage from your radio, put the a/c vents in the new dash kit, remove the two clips from the factory trim piece and put them on the back bottom edges of the new dash kit to hold in the bottom. Now plug in the harness and antenna, slide the radio in the kit and place the dash kit in the hole, top in first and push the bottom in. TAH-DAH new radio, and replace the speakers while you are at it you should have 4 4"x6" speakers.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

If the light comes on "steady" it means that the computer has detected a fault but that you can probably wait to take care of it at your convenience... hopefully within a few days.

If the light is BLINKING, it means that something more serious is wrong and you need to take care of it NOW.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

750 to 800

WHENEVER the check engine light comes on, ALWAYS connect a code scanner to figure out why. The light is on to tell you that the computer has detected a "fault" and it wants to tell you all about it.

It's always helpful to know what specific car a question is about.

You probably don't really mean "lens" and instead are referring to the lamp assembly. The lamp assimply includes the lens, the light box, some reflectors and connectors, and so on.

There might be a fasterner that you're missing. Removing it may let the assembly free.

You might find that the light is actually free, but held into the body by a gasket.

Or, that the assembly is being pinched into the body by surrounding parts that have shifted or moved. Caked-on wax and dirt might be keeping the assembly in place, too.

The best bet is to get a body manual for your car, or consult a friend who has more experience with the car in question.

If you can share some specific information about the year and model of car in question, it'll be easier to answer your question.

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The Rav4 has an antenna for the same reason that most vehicles have an external antenna, to optimize radio wave reception.

Select the tire pressure info by pressing the "gage info" button, then press and hold the reset button until the display shows that the tire pressures have been reset.

its normally mechnical so find the steel cable and find the nut on the cable of the parking brake "handbrake" and tighten

yes and no. which toyota?

You have to remove the door panel by unbolting the handle and then removing the panel which you can pull off if your brave or get a removal tool from an auto store. There is a bunch of little tabs that hold the panel in. Once the panel is removed the lock actuator sits near the rear part of the door, you will have to reach in to get it. It's held on by a rivet that will have to be drilled out to remove the actuator. After you remove the rivet reach into the door, disconnect the wire from the bottom of the actuator then remove the actuator from the rod (there is a piece that comes off the actuator and sticks into the door lock rod). Then to install it is the infamous opposite of removal. Good Luck!

The latest model of the Toyota RAV4 cars can cost you about twenty eight thousand dollars. This car make is relatively cheap compared to other SUVs in the market today.

Chck fuel, spark, and compression.

On the lower left side of the dashboard is a switch to turn on the cruise control. Depress the switch downward to activate. Once activated, set the speed on the steering wheel speed control.

The 2010 Toyota RAV4's engine produces 179 hp @ 6000 rpm.

a bit- I was looking for the same answer.

http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/v1n577.htm

The PCV is very hard to find on the 3.0 V6. Turns out it's under the intake stuff on the passenger side of the engine. I managed to change my with a LONG pair of needle nose pliers, and a long screwdriver. I also had to disconnect all the hoses, and one bracket to get enough room in there to work on it. Have fun...I still have a small scar on my hand from doing mine! :-)

I would recommend replacing it with a new one, even if you are not sure it is the cause of your problem. It is a real pain to do, so don't waste time putting a used one back in.

I just finished replacing the PCV valve on my wife's 4Runner. I took pictures but I am a newbie and cannot post them. On the passenger side of the intake manifold, from the back of the engine, there is a barb vacuum connection. Next to it, moving toward the front of the engine, there is another vacuum connection with three small vacuum hoses attached. Directly under that connection is an approximately 3/8" id vacuum hose connection that comes directly out and then U-tubes back under the intake manifold. The PCV valve is on the other end of that hose. To get enough space to remove the PCV valve, I had to remove the two barb connectors closest to the fire wall (one of those has two ports and requires that the PCV hose be pulled off the intake manifold barb connector)so you can turn it. I also removed a fuel line under them. Pulling on the PCV hose did not loosen it, it just pulled off the PCV valve. Not having a long enough needle nose pliers, I improvised with a 1/16" cable noose and a large screwdriver. I got it out and put the new one in by first connecting it to the PCV hose and using that as a handle to guide the PCV valve back into the grommet in the motor. I seated the PCV valve by pushing on the shoulder of the valve with the large screwdriver. Reconnect the vacuum lines that you wisely marked as you disconnected them and you are back in business. This sounds a lot easier than it was.

possibly a power steering belt or worn brake rotor pad . i suggest buying a ford.

1. Remove the plastic studs along the outside edge of the wheel well.

2. Work the plastic away from the body

3. You now have much easier access to the parking light socket (especially on the right side)

source: http://www.rav4world.com/forums/95-4-2-d-i-y-modifications/73156-how-replace-parking-lamps.html

For bulb info see sources and related links below.

10w30

Approximately

Front axle = steering rack / column

Chassis = pedal box / brake servo / master cylinder / brake hoses

BIW = bulkhead / cross members screen rail

Trim = cross car beam / column support / facia / IP

Duration

1 man x 14days

2 men x 10days

Cost

Parts [new] = £5k

Parts [used] = £3.5k

Labour [trade] = £2.5k

Labour [retail] = £3.5k

Total ~ £8k