Toyota RAV4

It is not generally replaced under most "normal" service practices for new millennium vehicles unless that hydraulic system is opened. If uncertain for your particular vehicle check the manufacturer's maintenance "requirements" for the vehicle model and year on line.

pull dipstick out about 5-6", then hold fluid bottle against the stick and SLOWLY pour. it will run down the stick.

The driver a car who is about to open their door is responible for looking for other approaching cars no matter where their car is.

The oil filter on the 2006 Saturn Vue 4 cylinder is located in front of the engine compartment.

You will need a 1 1/4" socket to remove the cover and the filter (it is attached to the cover).

Now, standing at the front of the vue, with the hood open, look just to the left of the battery box and down. You should see the large socket cap. There is a notch in one of the intake hoses for you to get an extension on the socket. Unscrew that cap and remove the old filter. replace with the aftermarket filter CH9018(Fram) or equivilant.

Make sure to change oil also, unless you are running extended service synthetic and only changing the filter.

Mainly front rotors are removed by taking off the wheel first(obviously), then moving on to the calipers and brake pads, then they can be easily slid off, unless I forgot to mention a bolt/nut somewhere(Most likely did, not very descriptive). If you are having problems with the caliper tho, you may need to push the piston back into its slot, because it could be forced out and warp the pads(Or maybe take off the brakes, emergency brakes do not usually stop the front wheels, so keep those on).

Not normally a dipstick but a matter of finding the filler plug and making sure therer is enough in to come up to the level of the plug.

I have an 08 RAV4 w/ the 6cyl. Oil change is a breeze- you don't even need a lift unless you have a huge head. Oil pan right next to the front passenger wheel, drain plug on the far side. Oil filter housing is RIGHT NEXT TO the oil pan. Its an aluminum cylinder w/ square, 3/8" female fitting. After you drain out all the oil, you turn that square fitting (counter-clockwise) and let the oil drain from there. Then you twist the entire housing (counter-clockwise). Switch-out the gaskets (there are 2), switch out the filter element and twist the entire housing back into place. Its really easy. I'd like more info to this question as well. However, I have found one good post regarding changing the oil filter on Toyota's current 6th generation 3.5-litre V6 engine. I believe this is the same engine as in the 2007-08 V6 Camry:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/lexus/92458-lexus-es-350-oil-change/

I have heard there is a protective plate with a number of screws that needs to be removed before you can get to the oil filter housing. Would appreciate if someone could verify this and if someone could provide pics of where exactly the filter is located.

The relative ease of changing my own oil is is a definite consideration when buying a new car. It is the reason I've not considered buying a late model Toyota with the 2GR-FE line of V6 engines. Maybe someone can convince me otherwise.

The ground clearance of the 2012 Toyota RAV4 is 0 ft. 7.5 in. (7.5 in.).

On a 2008 Toyota RAV4 :

Both the 2.4 liter four cylinder engine and the 3.5 liter V6 engine have a

timing CHAIN

Check the gas cap, if it is off or loose between 1/4 to 3/4 tank of gas it will set a evap code, thus setting the check engine light. It will take awhile to clear the code and turn the light off

A Slim Jim is meant to be used by professional locksmiths. They are used to slide down a vehicles window, such as a 1998 Honda Civic, a unlock the doors locks.

On the passenger side just below the windshield. you have to remove the black plastic cover.

2006-2010 v6 has a chain

I have a 2008 Rav4; filling the tank from empty (gas light on) to full is 12.5 gal. The total volume is about 14 gal.

We have a 2010 RAV4; filing the tank from empty (gas gauge needle on E and gas light on) to full is 12.5 gals. The specifications in the Toyota owners manual says the tank holds 15.9 gals. We are frustrated by having to gas up so very often. At a quarter full on the fuel gauge we can only put 8 or 9 gals. in at each fill up. Our old Ford held 19 gals. and the gauge was accurate so when we gassed up we could put in twice this much gas (15 to 17 gals) allowing gas stops half as often. Don't mean to complain, we love this car but wish it could take on more fuel to have fewer fuel stops.

Remove wheels re-install 2 lug bolts to hold rotor in place Loosen caliper mounting bolts (2) Remove 1 caliper bolt to allow caliper to swing without stressing brake line Remove front brake pad Use "c" clamp on rear brake pad to retract piston Remove rear pad Install new pads swing caliper back in place tighten mounting bolts (35 ft lbs) Install Wheel DO NOT MOVE CAR UNTIL BRAKES ARE PUMPED TO RESET PADS TO ROTOR

If you pull off the front of the air cleaner as to change the filter, you can see it coming in at an angle on the left, back side of the valve cover. You will have to disconnect the two 10mm bolts holding the back of the air cleaner down, prop up the left side, and you can get a 7/8" boxed end wrench in to loosen it.

Remove battery.

Jack up the front passenger side of the car, then support it with jackstands.

Loosen, then remove the drivebelts.

Remove alternator.

Support engine using a floor jack - be sure to put a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan to prevent damage - then remove the passenger side motor mount.

Remove upper timing covers.

Using an impact gun, remove the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. If you do not have an impact gun, you can fit a breaker bar with the appropriate socket onto the crank pulley bolt, and wedge the breaker bar against the floor. Then reconnect the battery long enough to quickly kick the starter motor once or twice (only VERY briefly) to loosen the bolt enough to turn.

Remove the lower timing cover.

Remove old timing belt. Measure against new one to make sure you have the proper part.

Make sure that all the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket line up with the appropriate marks on the block/cylinder head.

Install the new timing belt, making sure the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks still line up once the new belt is on.

Reinstall lower timing cover.

Reinstall crankshaft pulley.

Reinstall upper timing cover.

Reinstall passenger side motor mount.

Reinstall alternator, and drivebelts.

Reinstall passenger side front wheel, lower vehicle.

Reinstall battery.

Start 'er up, and if everything runs well, and no check engine light appears, celebrate a job well done with your favorite beer or liquor.

under the car and the only reason i'm posting this is no one else can seem to be specific . my question is a simple one i see a hex plug under the car in two places one under the trans axle and one that appears to be under the tranny all i need is a clear answer go figure

It is on the passenger side of the oil pan.

The 2004 Hummer H1 is 86.5" wide.

It is probably the widest production car out there.

Therefore, it establishes a suitable maximum for garage size.

I figure the doors are probably at least 4' long and must open to a 45 degree angle to be useful. So, sin(45 deg) = door_clearance/48" => door_clearance=34".

Therefore, to have two Hummer H1's standing side-by-side with both doors open to 45 degrees, one needs at least 2*86.5" + 4*34" = 309" = 25.75'.

Allowing for a little room on the sides to hang equipment. I would say that a garage would have to be about 30' wide.

Of course, planning for the widths of a normal sedan, say a Nissan Altima (70.7") would save you 32" and make the garage about 25-27' wide.

is there a sweet smell? Does the coolant level drop in the overflow tank and/or the radiator? if so, you might be looking at a bad head gasket. if there is slight white smoke(usually condensation) and no loss of coolant, then it is normal. once the engine (and exhaust system) gets hot, there should be no more smoke.

On a 1996 Toyota Rav 4, the crank positioning sensor is located under the hood. It is a thin, black cord that will be located near the lower front engine. In order to test the sensor to ensure it is working correctly you can take it to one of your local auto stores. A few of the stores names are as follows: Advance Auto, Pep Boys, and Jiffy lube. This would be your best and safest bet to have the sensor tested.

It is actually on top of the motor on the drivers side towards the front. Very strange place for one!

Read the owners manual. Turn the key to the on position (not start) with the radio off. Wait 10 seconds. Press the "display" button on the radio and hold for 10 to 12 seconds. the radio display will light up . PRESS "display" and "1" to select functions. display i think is enter . read owners MANUAL.

It's really simple. Turn the key on but not to start the engine. Make sure the radio is off and hit the "display" button for a couple of seconds, the big knob on the bottom on the left of your radio until the "settings" display shows. Hit the scan button to the right until "Tire pressure" comes up. Hit # 1 on your radio select buttons until it says "reset". Push the "display" button until you hear a "beep". Press the scan button a couple of times until it says "exit" then press "display". After it "beeps" you're all done.

If you had an owners manual why would you ask for help.

If the Gps is a real time unit that transmits its location, then you can detect it with any standard bug detector. The problem comes when the GPS is a passive record only type. This is the type that needs to be removed and downloaded to a computer to find where the unit "has been".

I have been trying to find a way to detect there passive units and have not been successful.