VW New Beetle

It is very easy to reset the check engine light on a VW car. All you have to do is to push the wrench button located near the trip reset. You will hold it in while turning on the ignition. after the service message appears, let go of the wrench button and hold in the minute button. Turn the ignition off and the computer will reset.

most commonly the right side tire is the traction tire unless it is a posi-trac rear end. then both tires are main traction tires. the easiest way to tell is lift one tire off the ground leave the vehicle in neutral and if the tire rotates there is not a posi.

7 quarts according to my dealer who just service my 2008 2.5L I5.

Go to your nearest VW dealership parts dept. They can show you exactly where it is by looking it up in the microfilm/computer. It should cost you a dime.

check timing. carb might need adjusted.

God I love these simple questions...Holy Mackeral...All VW Beetles were made in Germany until 1979.

Its really better to go to a shop and get it done, seriosly, i don't even mess with spark plugs, if you strip the coils, you will have to replace them, get them made bigger or re-shape them which can cost on average of 1000-2000 dollars, if you do, be extremly careful, try a sparkplug website, the sparkplug brand you choose, but still i know people who know cars back and front, but don't mess with spark plugs, its a biggie....Nick

But In A Sense How Do You, There So far down, what kinda tool do you use.

ok this is how you do it, pop the hood, and look at the center block the peice that says 2.0 16valve, those wires lading to the chanbers pull them out one at at time as your doing each spark plug, pull the first one out and you will see the spark plugs far down you need a ratchet with and extension and a spark plug ratchet head, it has a little peice of rubber in it so it will grab the spark plug, put it down the slot until it is on the spark plug, turn counter clock wise until they are loose, turn until its time too pull out the spark plug, when its ready pull up the spark plug will comeut of the chamber, get the new spark plugs and and gab them with a gabber or go to auot zone and they will do it, gab them .035, lower new spark plug in and turn until tight, don't crank them in there, slowly put them in there you don't want to strip the aluminum, next get some new spark plug wires and like i said do this one at a time put the new spark plug wire on like it was before, that's it your done...Nick

Take the door apart and disconnect the seized motor from linkage and tape up window and replace motor.

CHECK YOUR TRANNY SHIFTER PLATE ON DRIVER SIDE PART OF THE TRANSMISSION , SEE IF IT LOOSE, THE LEVER IS CONECTED TO A BOLT THAT CONTROLS THE GEAR PISTON THAT SHIFTS GEARS , IF YOU CAN SHIFT THE GEARS BUT DONT HEAR A CLICK , THAT MEANS THE BOLT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE SHIFTER PLATE ON THE INSIDE OF THE PAN IS LOOSE OR MAY HAVE COME OFF AND YOUR TRANNY WILL NOT SHIFT AND STAY IN PARK ......IF THAT HAPPENS , AND YOUR NOT HIP TO WORKING ON TRANNYS , BRING IT IN OR TOW IT, IF YOU DO UNDERSTAND SOMETHING ABOUT TRANNYS , DRAIN THE FLUID PULL THE PAN OFF AND YOU WILL SEE WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT ..HOPE I HELP ALITTLE IF THIS DOSENT EVEN PERTAIN TO YOUR QUESTION SORRY ABOUT WAISTIN YOUR TIME...

it's very EZ to change the fron and the back bank, just remove plastic covers and pull out one plug at a time and replace, use thread grease and torque. I did this on 1998 and there was plenty of room to work.

The yaw sensor is attached to the steering wheel column under the driver's left knee clipped within a bracket together with the pitch sensor. Both measure acceleration in either the lateral (yaw) or forward (pitch) directions and are used for the electronic stability programme (ESP) system. The yaw sensor is attached to the steering wheel column under the driver's left knee clipped within a bracket together with the pitch sensor. Both measure acceleration in either the lateral (yaw) or forward (pitch) directions and are used for the electronic stability programme (ESP) system.

NORMALLY this mean a bulb is out, but it can mean your flasher isn't the correct one. Some cheap heavy-duty flashers for towing will do this.

It's on top of the transmission case. To get to it, go under the car on the passenger side, near the right rear wheel. Look on top of the transmission case at the widest end and you'll see a large cylindrical object - that's the starter. There will be a smaller cylinder on top of the starter - that is the solenoid. If you need to replace the starter, it is recommended that you replace both the starter and solenoid.

Listen new cars have a sealed transmission...Like in a VW Bug 2.0L if you open the hood and standing on front of engine you will see the chassis wall under the front windshield right on the middle ...looking down you will see the transmission and on top the speed sensor (black with sometimes a black or a white ring) that's a two part Top is the speed sensor and btm is your dipstick for transmission fluid....disconnect elec connector from it and with a crescent wrench take both out.....the btm has a small gear on it that's your dipstick and fluid should be at end of it ....do not put fluid into it if you don't know how to chk the level.....next to this you will see a rubber type tip that's your seal for changing your fluid...Hope that helps!!!

The battery light can stay on for a couple of different reasons. Assuming your new battery is good (which may not be true and should be checked if all else fails) then most likely problem would be the alternator (generator in old Beetles). The light will stay on if the charging system is malfunctioning or the batteryhas completely failed, a bad battery itself may not light the light.If you don't have any test equipment then a professionals help will be required.

The fuel gauge is a very simple affair. The gauge itself, a 3 terminal voltage regulator and the in tank level sensor. Check fuses first, check for a good ground to the fuel gauge sensor on the tank. Pull the wire on the tank sensor, ground the wire, with key on gauge should deflect. No gauge movement means bad gauge or regulator. Reconnect wire. Check for 12V at the input of the voltage regulator, check for around 5V at the gauge side of the VR. If no suspect bad VR. If yes suspect bad gauge. If gauge does deflect when grounding tank sensor wire the intank sensor is bad and must be replaced.

There are 37,903.64273 miles in 61,000 kilometers. 61,000 kilometers x 1 mile/1.609344 kilometers = 37,903.64273 miles 1 miles = 1.609344 kilometers

Herbie was a 1971.

No- The movie actually came out in 1969, so logic tells us that it couldn't have been a '71. They used several different bugs to film the movie, but most were either 1963, or made to look like the 1963 model.

MY ADVICE:take it to the volkswagon dealer...reallybut if you are like me and like a chalange...this is my experiencefirst off my plastic lever wos broken off i didnt have a clue how this worked exept that just about every other car in the world bult after Y2K you pull the cap off the back and repace the bulb.EZ when i came to this site looking for answers all i found wos this unanswerd question that's where i learnd about the lever that controles the tightening mec.for the whole assembly.remember i had no instruction at all so i may have taken xtra steps first i took the battery out.next the air cleaner,the tube that goes from the air cleaner to front of car,and the battery box.VERY FRUSTRATING i played with the lever on the right side ov the car to see how it worked it moved easy so i sprayed a little pb blaster on the plastic got my big needle nose plyers went under to grab the plastic where the handle wos...wala the whole assembly fell out .somhow i don't think this is how they do it at the shope linning it back up(after changing the bulb)wos trikky but it went together.all and all it tok 4 or5 hours i don't know about you but i would have perferd to pay somone to do it and gone fishing SO that may not be how you are supposed to do it but it is how i did it

I located this amswer at http://www.myvwlemon.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000245.html IF YOU NEED TO REPLACE YOUR TAIL LIGHT BULB, FIRST REMOVE THE COVER(ITS ROUND) FROM THE INSIDE OF YOUR TRUNK, THERE WILL BE A BLACK KNOB THAT NEEDS TO BE UNSCREWEWED TOTALLY TO RELEASE THE BACK LIGHT CASING. NEXT, ALONG THE REAR FENDERS WHERE THE LIGHTS ARE, THERE ARE TWO GAPS. THE INSDE GAP( NEAREST HATCH BACK DOOR) IS A RELEASE TAB/CLIP ON THE LIGHT INSIDE BETWEEN THE GAPS. INSERT A BUTTER KNIFE OR SOMETHING SLIM AND PULL OUT CASING(DON'T BE AFRAID, AND IT TAKES A LITTLE FORCE TO PULL OUT). AFTER YOU PULL OUT CASING,YOU'LL FIND TO LIGHT SWITHCES(ONE IS FOR THE TURN SIGNALS AND OTHER IS YOUR BREAK LIGHTS). TURN THE LIGHT SWITCH COUNTER CLOCKWISE(ASSUMING IT'S HANGING UPSIDE DOWN)AND REMOVE. SWITCH OUT LIGHT BULB WITH NEW ONE(AUTOZONE HAS THEM FOR ABOUT $4.00 - PACKAGE OF 2)REPLACE EVERY THING BACK AS YOU UNINSTALLED IT. ITS RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE ALL BULBS, THAT WAY IT YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN LATER WHEN THEY GO OUT. IT'LL SAVE YOU LOTS OF TIME AND MONEY. HOPE THIS WILL HELP ANYONE SO PRINT AND SAVE IN YOUR MANUAL FOR LATER USE.

If you purchase a direct fit tow bar, it should be self explanatory as the mounting brackets should line up with the frame/rear bumper supports. Unfortunatel y with a mk4, there is a large overhang on the rear bumper, and it isn't really well suited for a towbar, so there might not be many options our there.

I owned a 328is which was very difficult to drive in the snow and was especially dangerous in the rare ice storm. Traction control offered by BMW and MB will sense slippage and automatically reduce acceleration (AUTOMATICS) but this offers only a modicum of safety. Almost every other BMW owner I have known has compalined about their light rear ends (one did a 360 on Route 1 in Mass going to work one morning, then the next day traded it in for a Jaguar). Unless you purchase a four-wheel drive BMWr (X series), you should load up your trunk with about 60 pounds of sand, salt stones etc. if you are aware of a snowstorm coming. Hope this helps. A smaller rear wheel drive BMW is certainly not an inherent threat to your safety in hazardous conditions. I presently own a 2000-328i and it's true that it doesn't handle like a Buick Roadmaster in the snow, but no rear wheel car of that size does. Also, your perception of how it handles also depends on your driving skills and what vehicles account for most of your experience; if you're used to driving on snow and ice in an old Chevy with loose tie rod ends, then a BMW 328i will seem to handle wonderfully. Not all cars are meant for all people and as with any vehicle, use common sense when driving in hazardous conditions. Inexperienced and/or over-confident drivers are influenced by car and tire ads that make it seem as if you can drive 80mph safely in any weather because of some magical superior handling and stopping power. Simply put, no car handles well on ice or snow.

Yes, I used to have one... It was in the car when I bought it so I don't know where it came from but it is indeed possible.
KT

take the big thing of and twist the bulb and put it in

Typically the vin number will be on the left side fork.