VW New Beetle

Persistence. The slide assembly used for these headlights is ingenious and infuriating at the same time. Make sure that the lugs are matched up to the slots that they go through. Gently but, firmly move the light assembly into the socket assembly until it stops. Turn the lever to pull the light assembly back into place. Wiggle the light assembly while turning the lever to help it go smoothly. If it does not go the first 2 or 10 times, do not get frustrated. It will go and the next time you have to change one out it will take 1/10th of the time.

Simple, get a spark plug wrench an have a go at it. This can be done an about five minutes.

33 Mpg

blue is when the engine is cold & when it turn off it means that the engine is at the right temp..

A 1967 VW beetle doesn't have a radiator you nit wit, ITS AND AIR COOLED ENGINE!!!!!!!!

Because your temperature sensor needs replacement. List price on the sensor is $25.

Something is causing the air bag to malfunction so the air bag system will not operate. You will need to read the codes to know exactly why that is, maybe a bad sensor or wiring problem. Take to a VWdealer for the best service on this.

open the drivers door and it is on the side of the dash near the door jam., there are also 3 fuses on top of the battery cover.

So far, all I can see is the GLS has a leather interior.

A 1966 Volkswagen Beetle can hold approximately 10.6 gallons of gas. The vehicles gas light will turn on the there is less than 2 gallons of gas in the tank.

my understanding, as for most repairs on the newer VW is to remove the front bumper and grille of the car. it sounds cumbersome and overwhelming but it's actually not that bad of a procedure. i have a 1996 jetta and it takes me 20 minutes to remove the grille and bumper.

If you know the key pad code, entering this should turn off the alarm. Otherwise, if you had the key, you would use it to turn the outside door lock to turn off the alarm.

well if it is the same as a 99 which im sure it is get a 3/8 drive ratchet a 6 inch extension a wobbly 3/8 to 3/8 and a 5/8 plug socket than remove and replace each, one at a time so you dont mix up your plug wires

Under the car. Look at your brake pedal. There's a silver rod on a clevis coming out the back side of the brake pedal. It goes into a rubber boot that's sticking through the firewall. On the other side of the firewall is the master cylinder. The bolts you've got to remove to get the master cylinder out are above and to the right, and below and to the left, of the rubber boot. Oh yeah...because of where it is, there's a special way to bench bleed (prime) a VW master cylinder. The way to bench bleed most master cylinders is to clamp them into a vise, put fluid in the reservoir that's attached to them and pump the rod until fluid comes out the brake line ports. On a VW that doesn't work because you are almost guaranteed to dump the bench bleed out while you're attempting to get it under the car. It's better to install the master cylinder, hook up the reservoir hoses and the brake pedal, then fill the reservoir and put someone in the car to pump the brakes while you keep the reservoir topped up. Put a metal--very important--container under the master cylinder. When you hear fluid hitting the metal pan, you're done.

tested blower,ok. then tested incoming voltage to blower and found to be zero. the final step was to replace the blower switch. To replace that switch, the middle part of the dashboard, including the radio had to be removed. The ac and heater come in one piece. It worked fine then.

I think, there is a chance that the switch could be just cleaned up and it would work, again I think.

The starter, upon activation, has a gear that is forced onto the engine's flywheel's gear to turn the motor over. Upon engine start or release of the start voltage the starter gear disengages.

The mirror down by the vent window will unscrew

its is similar to the process on a dodge caravan. It comes out the drivers side wheel well... . Theres a shoppe in conwat NH that is pretty decent about advice. The name is Importech North Conway NH. They can tell you better.

Rear

1999 VW Volkswagen Beetle center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) light bulb lamp replacement: Purchase the correct replacement center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. If there are multiple bulbs, you may want to consider replacing all at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

Carefully (or not), remove the interior panel below the glass and pull up on the relay rod (sort of looks like an RC car tie-rod) that's oriented vertically. You may have to manipulate the latch directly.

The code P0341 means that one or more of the following has happened. The cam sensor wiring may be too close to a spark plug wire causing interference, a bad wiring connection at cam sensor, a bad wiring connection at PCM, a bad cam sensor, or a damaged reluctor wheel.

the fuse is one of the ones on top of the battery box

u didnt mention what size engine..either way just follow the upper raditor hose from the raditor

A Classic Beetle doesn't have one, believe it or not. There's a screen in the oil sump. It can be cleaned with a little petrol. just make sure you don't break the oil sump gasket when you refit it. You'll see it underneath the car. It's a ring with nuts around it.