VW New Beetle

classic H pattern. First at top of left upper tip, second straight down, third up and over to right upper tip and fourth straight down reverse is press dowm and move towards second gear posion, but over to the left just a smidge....

It is a mineral oil that you can only get from a VW dealer.

Open up the hood, On the Passenger side go in behind the fixture where the light is located. If you are doing the Drivers side it is Advisable to Remove the Battery First to gain Access to the head Light Assembly. On the Head Light Assembly to the Rear there is an access panel - held On and closed by a metal clip - Move the clip out of the Way and Take the Access Cover off the Headlight Assembly. You can now See the Bulg Assembly - There is a clip holding the bulb in the Socket you will need to Remove the Access clip and pull the bulb straight out - disconnect the Power Wires from the bulb To Install the new bulb, Remember never touch the New Bulb with your bare fingers, as this will greatly shorten the bulb's life, Use a tissue or something else in that keeps your body oils off of the Bulb When you handle the new bulb. Push the new bulb into the housing, and replace the clips to secure the Bulb to the Socket assembly - Reconnect the Power wires to the bulb - Reconnect the Panel to the rear of the Light Assembly and Reattach the Metal Clip to attach the Panel cover to the assembly. you are done unless this is the drivers side - you will need to reinstall the battery in the battery Case to complete the Headlight changing Process.

Disconnect battery and leave for about 10 min. Then reconnect. The check engine light went away on mine.

no thanks, mine are fine.........but thanks for offering!!

It is under the kick panel on the passegers side. Right by where the right foot would be. Remove this panel to expose two plugs the clear/white one is the diagnostic port. You want to bridge the two outer terminals. 1 and 3 with a paperclip. _____ | | _ _ _ 1 2 3

dex-cool states 5 years or 150.000 miles use only dex-cool or premature corrosion to heater core or radiator

Look in the housing located at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

pull the hood release and then pull out and up hard on the outside hand standing in front of the car it will pop loose. I has worked for me many times.

This model uses an electric pump that is mounted under the vehicle. Should be pretty obvious.

on the drivers side under speedometer on the outside of dahboard there is a little panel you can flip open inside are fuse box fuses fuse card illumination fuse is the 2cnd fuse right closest to wheel in the smaller fuse section 5w amber in color

Pull out on the headlight switch to turn on the fog lights.

Follow top radiator hose to the engine & you will find it

Check the door jambs or fuel filler door - should be a label

shoot yourself in the face..its easier..

remove everything in steps.. first entire center console, airbags, steering wheel,turn signals, steering column, guages and everything possible where you see a screw..remove it..then once all that's gone you should have a metal bar,some fuse boxes and wiring.. but you're not done yet.. remove windshield washers and outside dash. now look around underneath dash and remove all bolts connected to frame.. disconnect ac couplings and remove connections to heater core, you're almost there

If you register at autozone.com you can print out info on your vehicle at no charge or cost, except for registering, of course. Hope this helps.

I got tired of sifting through too many websites you had to pay for nto get info for a timing belt diagram on our Mazda MPV.

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show me where to add power sterring fluid to my 1999 beetle

I have a little experience with spark plugs on Prisms. I own a '99 myself, so I don't think GM has changed the engine design in three years.

The plugs sit below the surface of the engine inside a tube. I use a 5/8 socket on my car, in case you are wondering. Removel is easy, just grasp the wire and remove it. After that is done, insert your plug socket and it's out.

Removal is more difficult since you cannot see the spark plug. I use a snug fitting rubber tubing. First you slide it over the top of the plug then you drop the plug in the hole and wait till it catches. Do a few more turns, then use a Torque wrench to tighten the plugs, I do mine at 11 in/lbs. Also don't forget to set the gap on the plug.

-Second - How to change spark plugs on a 2001-2002 Prizm:

The manufacturer recommended iridium plugs cost about $10.00 apiece and last about 150,000 miles. The platinum plugs cost about $2.00 apiece and last about 50,000 miles. For the hassle involved in repacing the plugs, Iridium plugs are better

Tools you will need before you start

1. 1/4" ratchet

2. 1/4" extention

3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive

4. small flat bladed screwdriver

5. 3/8" ratchet

6. 3/8" long extention

7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive

8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air

9. long needle nose pliers

10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long

11. wire coat hanger

12. neverseez lubricant

Procedure

1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine

2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover

3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block.

4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks

5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.

6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers (I found that a pair with a 5-7 mm tip are best) to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it

7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block

8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.

9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.

10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris

11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.

12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.

13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes

14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store.

15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.

16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt

17. replace the electrical clip.

18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.

19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail

20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done

Don't do it unless you have to!!

You will need to remove the induction manifold to access them. A Word of advice, use genuine Vauxhall replacements, as then you only have to go through this performance every 36,000 miles. You will also need to get the relevant gaskets and seals for the induction manifold, as if you don't, you will probably end up with induction air leaks, and end up removing the manifold a second time!

Not a job for the faint hearted, but easy enough if you are a competent DIY car mechanic.

It is located about half way down the block on the drivers side closer to the back.

There are two sensors one for the gauge and one for the engine. One (temp. Sensor) is located on the front top of engine by the goose neck for the upper radiator hose. the other (Temp. Sensor Switch) is on drivers side engine block.

There are two 7mm or 8mm bolts that under the grab handle that need to be removed. There is also a phillip head screw that is behind door handle that needs to be removed. If you have power windows and door locks, pull that panel from the front and it will come off and disconnect the plugs. Pull at the bottom of the door panel and lift up and it will come off. The only thing that is holding it on after the bolts and screw are removed are clips.

Should be in the trunk area, with the spare tire and tools. it will be folded up/white paper. if its not there, you can order one from any mbz dealer.

you have to take off the panel that is covering around the brake and then you will see the brake light switch on the front side of the brake you can just simply turn it left or right and that will adjust it

You still have a blower resister assembly, wiring, and a blower motor itself, in that system. Any one of those could have a problem. You need to use a test light at the blower motor connector and see if you are getting both power and ground. If you are missing a ground, most likely you have a bad blower resister assembly. If you are mssing power, check fuses and wiring. If you have both power and ground, and the motor isn't working, you need a blower motor. I have also found that sometimes tapping with a screwdriver handle on the motor will make it come on, and if that is the case, then again, you have a bad blower motor.