You can try looking it up at Walker Exhaust website. They have nice diagrams of all their replacement systems and components. Just choose your vehicle and it will show you the system from the cat. converter all the way to the muffler.

[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer

We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;

1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.

2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.

3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).

If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.

1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:

the problem is that the key is used (when inserted) to dis-engage the steering lock. If the lock is engaged you have a problem. The barrel itself is located/locked in the tube with a small locating bolt.To get at this ,however you need to remove the lower dash first and then the top housing.You will then be able to see the bolt head (6mm I think).On the underside of the barrel tube there is a spring loaded locator bar which must be pushed in and at the same time the barrel eased out (use a srewdriver).The wires from the switch go out to 2 connectors 1 brown (4 way) and one white (6 way)

the wiring must be freed from the loom and these plugs disconnected , they can then be fed back through the side of the steering barrel tube. Hope this helps Dave

Very strong, muscular.

Oil is a non-renewable resource, as such there is only a set amount of oil in the world and once that supply is exhausted there will not be more for many millions of years. Which essentially means that yes, the world is running out of oil.

I assume it's either stuck or broken off. Is it the off/lock position? The Accesory On psotion is the first past the Lock/Off position and older lock cylnders sometimes stick in the Accessory On position. If you can't move the key to the Off/lock positon, try wigglign the key a littel to see if you can rotate the key all the way back towards you. Teh alternative is to remove the ignintion lock assmbly completely adn take it to a locksmith.

To remove the ignition swtich assembly, disconnect the battery, remove the 5 screws holding the steering binacle, pry apart and remove. Next drill small holes into the tops of the breakaway bolt heads and use a screw extracter tool to unthread the bolts. Remove the two screws holdign the switch assembly to the base of the igtnion lock body.

Good luck

Malcolm

More info is needed. Could be a number of things. Battery, Starter, etc.

This answer will work for many car. It could be a few different things. Here is what you can try--

*If key won't turn, turn the steering wheel harder to left or right, even if you think it's already turned far as it will go. Once steering wheel is unlocked, the key should turn.

* make sure its all the way in park or neutral

*older cars have to have the gas pedal mashed(some new ones do too)

*bump automatic gear shift with fist while turning key

*next I'd try the battery and here is your warning*****DO NOT SMOKE AROUND A BATTERY BECAUSE THEY CAN BLOW UP, I'VE NEVER SEEN IT HAPPEN BUT IT IS POSSIBLE*****

*clean the battery terminals if there is corrosion(looks like blue sand) on them. Use baking soda and water as cleanser.

*move the battery slightly forwards and backwards.

*move/wiggle the battery cables a little.

* If the starter has gone out, you can get under the car and hit it the starter with a hammer. If it starts afterwards, then you know its the starter. The hammer solution could work just 1 - 3 times. After the 3rd time, I would not trust it to work again. It's not likely but the starter could last years after one hammer hit.

I need to go. I'll try to add more later.

If you are having problems with starting your car, the car stoles on you as you drive or come to a stop sing, the serive engine lights are on, then you have a problem with 2 sensors, camshaft & crankshaft. You need to replace them both. If you take to a mechaniv shop or dealeriship it will cost you between $300-$500.

I and a bunch of my friends had same problem. I fixed my car and my friends car, and then friends of my friends started to call and I began to fix this problem for them at 50% cost less than of a shop/dealer.

If you live in Toronto or GTA, please call me now at 647-831-2102 . The car must be cold in order to work on it, so it is better that I come to your place. It is a dangerous problem and you should fix it right away.

Call now 647-831-2102

Terry

reduce working time.....and improves accuracy

Try under the driver or passenger seat. I don't know this for sure, but heard it on "Car Talk."

Listen to the March 7th show to hear the answer.

Some cars have a fuel cut-off switch that upon an impact kills power to the fuel pump. From my experience it doesn't take much of an impact to trigger this switch. Most vehiles with this feature have a reset switch located inthe trunk area.

i don't' know about getting the key out but to kill the engine pull fuel pump fuse

The 1996 Ford Escort had a self-adjusting system. If pushing on the pedal will not solve the problem, you are most likely going to need to change the ratchet system in the pedal.

It is unknown whether or not this engine can be turbocharged. But we'd love to see someone try it and share their results! If you have Japanese connections, you might want to investigate the Mazda-made direct-injection turbo version of this engine, offered in the 1999 Mazda Capella (Mazda's Japanese-market midsize family car). That engine is the same basic design as ours, and might fit in our cars.

The 1753 cc IDI diesel(60 bhp) which was used in the older generation Escorts were later upgraded to Di turbo(90 bhp). The Di turbo diesel had premature wear on con-rod bearings compared to IDI diesel. One can try to give mild boost to IDI diesel by adding a small waste gate turbo. I say small turbo, smaller the turbo-earlier it kicks-in. This will improve its initial response by a great deal and also prevents from the con-rod bearing failure.

Core plugs are fitted in the round holes along the engine block. They are erroneously referred to as "freeze" plugs. Somewhere along the line someone got everyone to believe these plugs would pop out if the water in the block froze. Instead, 99 times out of 100 they wouldn't and the block would crack. Core plugs are inserted because engine blocks are molded using sand. The holes let the sand out and then those channels act as coolant passages. The plugs are solely to plug the holes and offer no freeze protection.

Changing them is quite fiddly at least when the engine is in the car. The biggest problem is finding room for your hands and tools.

To remove a core plug take a punch and a hammer, and knock on one side of the core plug, until it turns in the hole. Then grab hold of the other side with a pair of pliers. Twist and pull to get it out. Be extremely careful not to knock the plug into the engine block. You might not get it back out, and it might get stuck in such away that you won't get a new core plug in. You might want to bore a hole in the plug, so you can grab the plug with pliers or pry it loose with a screwdriver through the hole.

To install a new core plug, get a socket that fits exactly inside the plug (which might be hard to find) and use an extension and a hammer, to drive it back in the hole. Take extreme care to make sure the plug is driven straight into the engine block. If it's not straight a leak will occur.

Estimated time for installing a core plug for the first time is one hour, in addition to remounting parts and refilling antifreeze.

If you're installing an engine heater, read the heaters installation instructions. Different heaters will not fit in all core plug holes. You may need to remove a specific plug.

If you go ahead and to this, remember: You might render your engine useless or in need of major repairs, and it's not my responsibility.

A last note: I did this on a Volvo 245. They have very large engine rooms with loads of workspace, and yet I had trouble finding enough space for my tools (especially the socket and room to swing the hammer hard enough). I will think twice before doing it again. The only pleasant part of the job is the price of the core plugs, at only 4 dollars.

The starter relay is on the driver's side fender behind the battery.

pay someone to change it its a pig of a job unless you like laying upside down

theres alot and i mean alot of reasons why a car wont start. 1 dead batt 2 no gas 3 no gas getting to the engine 4 not enough oil 5 dirty air filter 6 bad spark plugs 7 bad spark plug wires 8 brokin timing chain if its none of those than it might be more serious . check condition of battery cables, especially the connection to the battery, look for corrosion.

A model escort is someone who is uaually very good looking that is paid to go to an event with someone. Could me that this person is a prostitute although not always.