Alternators

Well, I haven't worked on that particular car but I can give you general information on changing an alternator because I've done it twice on my 1991 Chevy Cavalier. Before you get dirty and take your car apart, test it to make sure the alternator is really bad. If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the battery with the engine off. For a fully charged battery, it should be 12.6 volts or higher. Start the engine and check voltage again, now it should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts, indicating that the alternator is charging. Auto parts stores can also test the battery and alternator both on and off the car. First of all, to avoid any short circuits, disconnect the negative battery cable before working on any part of the electrical system. I once forgot to do this while working on my car. The alternator wire brushed against the mounting bracket and made some pretty good fireworks under the hood. SAFETY FIRST!!! Once the electricity is off, take off the drive belt. If your car uses regular V-belts, there will be a curved metal arm above the alternator. Loosen this bolt so you can move the alternator to take the tension off. Note: You might as well replace the belt too if it's in bad shape. If your car has a serpentine belt (one belt drives everything) there is a spring-loaded tensioner wheel. Most auto parts places sell a special tool for releasing the tension. If there is enough room, vise grips will work as well for serpentine belts. Once the belt is off, disconnect the electrical wiring from the back of the alternator. There will usually be a connector plug that snaps in as well as the "battery" wire, a red wire secured to a post on the back marked "B+". Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the mounting bolts that hold the alternator on (usually two or three bolts), and remove the alternator from the mounting bracket (Don't lose the bolts!!!). Save the old alternator, odds are you will need it to return as a core to get your core fee back when you buy the new alternator. When you buy the new alternator, you will need to tell the parts guy what make, year, model, and motor size when you buy the replacement unit. Installation is simply a reverse of removal.

on some late 80's honda's you have to remove the splash pan and the left side cv axle to get it out.

Read Me First!!!! I have just completed the changind of an alternator on a 1987 Honda Accord. I did NOT remove the front left axel! That is the good news. The bad news is i did some grinding around one of the engine mounts(harmless, I assure you) The car was designed where is you have to remove the axil, but let me tell you, i explored that possibility and from what i read, i tried my way and it actually did work. If you have gotten to this point 1) Car is jacked up and you have located and loosened the alternator (if you are this far, you see what i mean) Its not coming out nomatter how you turn it, pull it.. i tried it all...believe me, its not happening.... If your this far...go get you a grinder and grind on the mount for a while. It will come out and it beats removing the axil and whatever goes along with that ie..grease spillage or ? If you know what you are doing than go ahead, odds are you are not reading this page anyway, but if your like me than take my advice..GRIND IT! ,,,It works

Check out Autozones website. They have the Chifton manuels for most cars on the site. It will point you in the right direction.

before you remove your alternator, try this; turn your car on, open the hood, disconnect a battery terminal; if the alternator is working fine, the car should keep on running, if the car turns off, then you know you should change the alternator, I tell you this because I changed the alternator twice before I found the problem on my car.

Go to auto zone and have the alternator checked out. even a new one can be bad.

you start by loosening the tension pulley that's actually hooked to the alternator(right off the top bolt), once this is loosened, you can move the alternator back to where the belt fits and tighten it back up and your done

A for Alternator, S for Stator, I for ignition.

The car's alternator is a three phase generating system. Inside the alternator is a three phase full wave diode bridge that changes the AC generated voltage to a DC voltage.

An alternator from a 2000 Chevy blazer will fit a 2002 S10 blazer with a little fabrication.

first romove the altinator belt then from under the car detach the altinator harness connectors then remove the lower bracket then remove the adjusting bolt then last remove the bolts and take the altinator out it might be a little tight but it will come out from under the car

I/C Regulator built inside alternator.

older cars had a generator ,not an alternator, but you can always use a battery charger to charge a battery

For 4WD - 3.2L V6

1 REMOVAL

- Disconnect the radiator hoses from the engine block.

- Remove the upper fan shroud.

- Remove the fan assembly from the fan idler shaft.

- Slack the "V" belt tensioner hold bolt (front of the pulley)

- Slack the "V" belt tensioner pulley bolt (top of the tensioner & pay attention to the

jam nuts).

- Remove the "V" belt.

- Remove the "V" belt tensioner

- Slack the A/C grooved belt tensioner hold bolt (front of the pulley)

- Slack the A/C grooved belt tensioner pulley bolt (top of the tensioner & pay

attention to the jam nuts).

- Remove the A/C belt.

- Slack the alternator swivel point bolt on alternator top mounting bracket.

- Slack alternator tensioner hold bolt (on the lower bracket and clamping the

alternator lock block to the bracket).

- Slack the alternator grooved belt tensioner (on lower alternator bracket).

- Pry alternator toward engine.

- Remove the alternator belt, which will dislocate the fan pulley, so remove the fan

pulley too.

2 ASSEMBLY of the new alternator belt

- Install the new alternator belt and also the fan pulley on the fan idler shaft

flange. Make sure the fan shaft studs are located in the 12 - 3 - 6 - 9 configuration

and install a temp nut with dummy washers to hold the fan pulley in place.

- Pry the alternator away from the engine.

- Tighten the alternator tensioner hold bolt system in reverse order as you

disassembled it.

- Tighten the alternator grooved belt tensioner so that the belt still has about 5mm

movement when you push it down in the middle between the two most extreme

pulleys.

- From here work in reverse order from the disassembly stage.

- When getting to the point the fan has to be assembled, remove the nut and the

dummy washers, the pulley will stay in place.

- Continue in reverse order.

- When everything is tight and secure, hoses included, fill up with 50/50 antifreeze

and check for leaks.

Not hard to replace.

Take intake tube off.

Loosen the belt by rotation the tensioner

Remove belt off pully

Remove 3 bolts holding it on

Take out & replace in reverse order

Depending on the alt you may have to swap the alt pully

There is no fuse for the alternator shown in my factory service manual.

how to remove the alternator on 2006 dodge caravan 3.3 lite and also replace the new alternator back on 2006 dodge caravan

Absolutely. If a diode shorts to ground it can drain a battery in a very short time.

It is a more convenient arrangement because it does not need a commutator. The rotor is fed with DC through slip-rings and the brushes last much longer. The main current is generated in the static winding enclosing the rotor.

The only power sent TO the alternator is rotational motion, usually from the fan belt.

Make sure the battery cable connectors are clean and tight, bad connections can keep the alternator from charging the battery. also be sure that the belt tensionor is set right if it is bad replace it. You may have an electrical problem, Check all your fuses. If you have a short or an "open" wire touching the body or any other metal area it could slowly drain your battery as well. Had a similar problem(s)...and these were the two answers. a) The trunk light has a mercury switch and when it malfunctions, the light stays on, in the morning the battery would be dead. The switch is attached to the trunk lid opening cables (looks like a black cylinder. It may need to be repositioned ( so the light turns off )or replaced if malfunctioning. b) You may have to take your vehicle out on the highway for an hour in order to give the battery a good charge. City driving does not cut it.

tag on alternator, but probably 35 amps >>CORRECTION>> adding "alternator" to the question is correct, however the amperage rating for an alternator in a 94 Accord DX is 80 amps. Unless of course this DX model has a VTEC engine (very unlikely) then it will have a 90 amp alternator installed.

shoudl be only a copuple of bolts to unscrew then take the belts offf but rember how u took it of because it has to go on the same way

hetero=different;so heteromorphic alternation of generation is the life cycle consists of haplophase and diplophase where they are dissimilar in size and maturization time.

What engine do you have? If people would give the simple, basic information to be necessary to be able to properly answer questions like this, it would make it a lot easier!

At any rate, on any car, you can find the alternator by following the smaller secondary cable from the battery to the back of the alternator. If you don't have enough know-how to follow this simple process, then take the car to a shop and let a professional do the work.

To change the alternator belt on a Mazda 323, first remove the right hand air shield under the can. Then locate the pulley tensioner of the AC and loosen the bolts on the pulley. Finally, remove the alternator pivot bolt under the alternator to remove the old alternator belt and replace with a new one.

Try having the alternator checked at a local parts house, off the truck and on. If it tests good on a bench tester, then bad on truck, then you might have a bad voltage regulator or wiring problem. If it's an older ford, (should be if it's a 100), then the regulator should be separate from the alternator.