Alternators

1) A drain somewhere. Could be the ignition is faulty. Or, a dome light will drain a good battery in a week. Try removing negative lead from battery overnight and see.

2) Shorted diode in alternator. Try removing lead to alternator overnight and see.

3) Bad alternator not fully charging battery. Is "charge" or "gen" lite on while driving? Does it come on with head lights? Check voltage at battery with engine at fast idle. It should read 13.8 to 14.4 volts with headlights on.

4) "short-tripping" and/or hard-starting car. If you only drive a few blocks a day, this isn't enough to charge the battery. If your car is hard-starting (like Mine!) it can cause excess load on battery; possibly warping plates and reducing capacity. If car "slow cranks"; it's a sure sign of low battery.

5) Bad battery. If a plate is warped or battery is old and sulfated, one or more cells will go dead or reverse. Try putting a charger on battery. It should come up in a few hours. If it keeps drawing current, you have a bad cell. Replace battery.

6) Do you talk on a CB all night? (Didn't think so-!) I had a friend who did this, then kept complaining his "battery bad". Car batteries are not intened to be used for constant load, not even the 3 amps or so from a stereo or CB for 12 hours. A marine or RV battery is.

Make sure all connections clean and tight. Keep Distilled water level up in cells--so you can see it--use a Flashlight, Not a match to see!

Put some brake fluid in the master cylinder.

Behind right headlight. Gold box.

"was having charging system problem so alternator was replaced now car keeps flooding and won`t fire.

It depends on the vehicle, call AutoZone.

3.3L and 3.8L Engines The 3.3L and 3.8L engines were equipped with the Nippondenso alternators. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the alternator drive belt, by relieving the tension on the dynamic tensioner. 3. Loosen the nut on the support bracket at the exhaust manifold, do not remove it. 4. Remove the alternator tensioner/power steering bracket bolt. 5. Remove the tensioner stud nut and remove the tensioner. 6. Remove the alternator mounting bolts. 7. Remove the power steering reservoir from the mounting bracket, do not disconnect the hoses, and position it out of the way. 8. Remove the alternator support bracket bolts. Remove the intake plenum to alternator bracket bolt and remove the alternator support bracket from the engine. 9. Remove the alternator from the engine and disconnect the electrical leads. To install: 10. Install the alternator in position on the engine and connect the electrical leads. 11. Install the alternator support bracket, tighten the retaining bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 12. Install the power steering reservoir on the mounting bracket. 13. Install the alternator mounting bolts, tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). 14. Install the tensioner and tensioner mounting stud. Install the retaining nut on the exhaust manifold. 15. Install the alternator belt, insert a 1/2 in. extension into the square hole in the tensioner and turn the tensioner. Tighten the tensioner bolt. 16. Connect the negative battery cable.

I'm talking about the smaller OHV engine. If you have the big engine, my remarks might not be relevant.

It's sort of a pain. You have to remove the serpentine belt to get the alternator off. Look for a routing diagram of the belt on the underside of your hood, or somewhere in the engine compartment. You absolutely need to know how it routes. If you don't have a diagram, make your own.

The belt is removed by relieving the tension on the tensioner. On my '96, it's located down and rearward from the alternator. It rotates forward to slack the belt.

The alternator has 3 bolts. Two are visible from the passenger side of the alternator. One is danged long! There is also one that's hidden on the driver's side, under sort of a bracket. You might have to feel for it. You sure as heck can't see it!

there are a couple of electrical connectors to unplug too. Take care with these. OH YEAH! Disconnect the battery before you start!

Once you have the old alt. off, the new goes on more or less the same way. The pain can be getting the belt back on. Get someone to help you. It's difficult to keep the belts on all the pulleys, as well as rotating the tensioner. While you have the belt off, check it for frays and cracks. If there are any, now is the time to replace it.

I have a 2.0 1995 Mercury mystique the battery charge light was on no output on old alternator. Replaced alternator No output from new alternator "charge light out" (wiggle test wires& re-check wires) at alternator *still no output* is there a fuse that could be the problem or just another bad alternator...

I would check the alternator plug before getting another alternator, it may be bad. And is a lot cheaper to replace.

you could pull off your positive battery cable if it stalls out then you alternator is the problem

you have a short where negative is touching the metal of the car or it is grounded inproperly

You would be amazed how much difference new battery cables would make. Often times, a cable will corode inside where you can not see it. But........What is the symptoms. You do not state the problem in your question. I have also seen a starter that works "perfectly" drain a battery overnight. Y-THINK-Y Check the battery cells and Check the wiring, any cuts that may be in contact with the body

you have to loosen the top alternator bolt alowing the alternator to swing forward loosening the belt
This answer was retreived from the previous page

I've done this and it is not too difficult, because the alternator is nice and high on the engine and easily accessible for replacement. (My car has a 3.8 L V6 engine, and these instructions are from an actual replacement job on that engine.) 1. Remove the Serpentine belt, or at least remove it from the alternator's pulley. To do this you need an 18 mm socket to place on the tensioner pulley that is just to the left and below the alternator. This pulley is mounted on a spring loaded arm that will move CLOCKWISE if you apply clockwise torque to the nut that holds the pulley on. I believe the screw that holds the pulley has a LEFT hand thread, so that when you apply clockwise torque the nut does not come loose. When you apply torque with your socket wrench (the longer the handle, the easier this step is) the idler pulley will move down and slightly to the left, releasing tension on the serpentine belt, so that it can easily be removed. 2. Remove the decorative cover from the top of the engine. You do not need tools for this step. Just grasp the front edge the thing and lift up. Then do the same at the back edge. The cover will pop off. Notice where the four little sets of fingers are and where they snap on to some little pipes below the cover. You will need to snap these on later. 3. Ideally you should disconnect the red battery cable from the battery for this next step, but the battery is difficult to reach on this car. Perhaps you should wrap plastic electrical tape around the end of the red terminal so that it does not flex back and touch the battery again while you are working. If you are going to do this step, do it now, or even do it first. 4. Remove the bolts that are visible that hold the alternator in place. [If you skipped step 3 (disconnecting the red battery terminal, then at this time take something that is an electrical insulator -- I used a flat piece of cardboard that was big enough to sit the alternator on with ease, while I work on it.] 5. In this step, take care that you DO NOT LET THE END OF THE ALTERNATOR CABLE TOUCH ANYTHING THAT IS METAL, especially if you did not disconnect the battery terminals in an earlier step. I went so far as to rest the alternator on a piece of [insulating] cardboard while I was doing this step, to reduce chances of an electrical short to "chassis ground". Now remove the electical cables. The heavy red wire is removed by loosening a hex screw. As soon as you take this terminal off, wrap tape aroundit so that it cannot accidentally touch any part of the engine. A couple of smaller wires are connected with a plastic connector...locate and the connector's locking tab and push on it as you pull on the connector to remove it from the alternator's case. 6. If you buy a rebuilt alternator, take the old one in when you buy it so you can claim the "Core" trade in value. 7. Now reverse all of these steps. Connect the alternator electrically (don't forget the little connector!). Install the alternator with the bolts you just removed. Using the 18mm socket, rotate the tensioner pulley so you can get the serpentine belt back on. Snap the engine cover back on. Reconnect the battery terminal if you removed it. 8. Check to see if the alternator is charging. This is easy if you have a voltage gage (it won't read below 10 volts anymore.) If not, see if the headlights are a tiny bit brighter when the engine is idling fast as compared to when it is idling slowly. Hope this helps.

Mechanically or electrically?T The belt tension was too tight and caused the alt bearings to fail early. You jumped it off with revesed battery ca

Yes it does.

wala... secret

In general the difference between series and shunt (or parallel) is that series is like a string of pearls, each one receives from a leading source and sends directly to a draining target (the current has to flow equally through all).

Parallel however is like a railroad track in that the source is one rail and the drain is the other rail with each of the ties pulling from one and pushing into the other regardless of what any of the other "ties" are doing (each has a completely separate current flow from the others).

In terms of regulation a series regulator would have to "block" some of the power going through it to the load in order to regulate it. A shunt or parallel regulator would have to "drop" or waste enough of the limited available power to restrict what would be left available to the load (or loads).

Hope this overview helps

how to change an alternator Mitsubishi shogun 3000 v6

Symptoms: Besides having a dead battery..........

If you charge or jumpstart your vehice's battery and successfully get it running to only have it mysteriously die and have no lights, radio, etc.; it is probably you alternator. If your vehicle will run constantly on it's own, but will not start after shutting it off, it could be your battery.

If your battery will hold a charge on it's own, but goes dead a while after you start and run your vehicle, it is probably your alternator.

Or, if you can get it running, it should have an alternator light that will come on when there is a problem. I would almost bet your car has one... my 1970 ford does.

Just in case one of the other jurors becomes sick, injured, legally compromised, or has a family emergency during the course of the trial. The "alternate" juror fully functions as a member of the jury right up until the jury 'receives' the case and goes into deliberation, at which time the 'alternate' is dismissed with the thanks of the court. The alternate juror does not participate in the final deliberations of the jury (unless they had been activated to fill a vacancy).

Depending on the make of your car, it is usually 4-6 very small (and very fragile!!) screws holding the two sides together. look very carefully and you will see them but be extremely careful not to strip them or even break them when disassembling or reassembling the unit

Don't do it. You will have a ball putting the alternator brushes & springs back in if you have never done this before.

Disconnect the battery

Remove accessory belt (now is a good time to replace the belt if needed)

Raise vehicle on hoist or jack stands

Remove right front wheel

Remove inner splash shield

Remove wires going to the alternator (make sure to hold the stud when loosening the lock nut or you will crack the plastic insulator, which may ruin the alternator)

Remove lower and upper bolts holding the alternator to the engine

Pull alternator out through wheel well opening behind the strut.

Install in reverse order.

Loosen the bolts holding the alternator in place and then loosen the bolt on the bracket with the slot. Slide the alternator down the slot until the belt is loose enough to remove. Install the new belt and the slide the alternator back until the belt is tight. Now you need to set the belt deflections. When free span is less than 12 inches between pulleys, belt deflection should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch. When free span is longer than 12 inches, belt deflection should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Check the deflection by pressing the belt halfway between pulleys. Tighten down all bolts to 30 lb/ft of torque.

Short to ground?
Loose battery cable or ground causing a Spike in system?
Bad voltage regulator allow too much current to flow through system?

If your motor cranks it could be an ignition problem which could be anything from bad spark plugs to a bad distributor or it could be a fuel problem. When you turn the key to on listen for the fuel pump to click on if you hear it then its most likely not your fuel unless ur filter is cloged. if there is no crank most likely starter or bad ground somewhere