Alternators

change alternator

It will be located along the the drive belt. It will be the unit that has little vents on it and if you look inside the vents it will have copper wire windings in it. Usually it is toward the top of the engine or towrd the front. Hope this helps you. It usually has a larger power wire connection and a ground wire going to it.

You will need to loosen the alternator belt with the tensioner pulley. When the tensioner pulley is loose the alternator belt will become loose. Put the new alternator belt on and tighten the tensioner pulley.

First,disconnect the battery.Remove tire.Set jack stands on frame not control arm you will be removing the steering knuckle for this job.Remove inner fender well.Remove brake caliper,brake caliper mounting bracket,rotor,remove lower balljoint nut,remove knuckle to strut bolts,remove abs sensor from knuckle,seep rate knuckle from lower balljoint

External, the engine computer is the regulator.

A quick test I've always used is to start the car. Remove the neutral cable from the battery. If the car still runs your alternator is fine.

The red wire goes to the positive battery post and the black wires connect to the negative post. If it will not turn over then possibly the starter is defective.

how to change alternator in 2006 kia sedona

It's easy but best with a helper. First make a note of routing or take a pic. There may be a diagram on core support. Make sure replacement is right length/rib count. Find tensioner pulley -it will be smooth and there will be at least one. A tensioner pulley has a spring and will move from side-sde, an idler looks the same but is fixed-doesn't move. Usually you can tell by the bracket-a tensioner contains a spring so has a fatter bracket-or process of elimination. If there is only one smooth pulley for that belt it has to be a tensioner to keep it tight. If unsure try to move slightly to right or left to see if fixed. If there is more than one on that belt use easiest to reach. Find a socket that fits nut/bolt center of pulley. It could move right or left but usually away from block. Test it to the right first, if it moves this way you can use the socket with a long handled socket wrench. While you move and hold it to farthest position your helper can slip belt off top most accessory. If it moves left, use a pry bar like a tire iron since socket going left may loosen pulley bolt before it allows any movement. Reverse to install.

13.5 - 14.5

No battery is 12v alternator charges the battery your hous is 120ac voltage. Would be very in efficient to use a battery and inverter to provide power to a home.

A automotive volt and amp tester is best but you can determine voltage with just a volt meter connected at the battery. Start the bike, run the RPMs up to about 2,000 and hold it there for 30 to 45 seconds. See if you have a rise in voltage to about 13.7 to 14 volts. (considering the battery itself is in good condition) no Low state of charge or bad cell. This test will tell you at least the alternator is producing voltage and the regulator is working. I would be more suspect of the regulator as the alternators on Harleys are not that notorius for failing. Just for your information, the alternator runs on the left side of the engine crankshaft inside the primary cover. I was doing some heavy duty hotrodding on my modified 86 FSXTC when I spun the outer housing of the alternator and had to pull the primary cover, chain and front engine sprocket.

Hello. It just so happens that my alternator just died a couple of days ago and i have a 2000 ford focus. if you go to a mechanic make sure he IS NOT! ripping you off make sure to shop around. i took my focus to a couple of places but ended up paying $420.00 + tax. not bad but not good i was happy with the job. i would not recommend doing this job on your own unless you have a mechanic in the family. Good Luck!

I just replaced mine yesterday. take off the air cleaner to gain access to the belt adjustment which has a nut that pulls the alternator to tighten and loosten the belt. Then from under the car there is a bolt that goes thru the bottom of the alternator. This bolt must be loostened to allow the alternator to pivot. Then loosten the top adjusting nut described and push on the alternator and it will pivot free, then remove belt and have someone on top while you hook the new belt back in place. Tighten top adjuster, the book says .3- .4 in of slack while pushing on the belt firmly. Then retighten bottom bolt.

Start the vehicle.. and disconnect the positive terminal of your battery.. if the engine dies.. your alternater needs attention.

Electrical isn't your strong point, is it.

If you take the neg. cable off the battery then you will not measure any voltage between the neg. cable and the pos battery because there is no complete circuit back to the neg side of the battery.

I would start by making sure that the battery connections are clean and secure, as well as the main connection at the alternator. Check that there is no corrosion on any of the terminals. Use some sandpaper if you need to clean them up, on the terminals and the cable connectors.

The 7812 voltage regulator is a three terminal, single IC, +12V regulator.

Then the alternator needs to be looked at asap But I even took the cable off alternator and car stayed on which meet alternator in good right?

Edit: If you took the cable off the alternator, then you disconnected the alternator so you didn't test the alternator at all. As a quick test only, removing the positive battery cable at the battery and the engine stays running means the alternator is charging. Do not run the engine more than a few seconds like this, and even then a voltage spike can wipe out your car's electronics. Much better to get a charging system tester to check things or at least borrow a voltmeter.

Optima RedTop charging Information. The following methods are recommended to ensure long battery life. Always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.

• Recommended Charger Thunder 8 Amp Battery Charger
• Alternator 13.3 – 15.0V, no amperage limit.
• Battery Charger 13.8 – 15.0V, 10 amps max, for 6 to 12 hours.
• Rapid Recharge Max 15.6V (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 51.7°C. Charge until current drops below one amp.
• Float Charge 13.2 – 13.8V, one amp max current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).

you most likely have a loose or unattached ground wire to some major component.

I would expect that the battery is dead; however, instead of jump starting the car, it is far easier on your car's charging system to place a battery charger on it for about 6 hours then start the car. Otherwise, the alternator tries to charge the dead battery at a wide open rate and it can damage your alternator. Mark

If you replaced the battery with a brand new one, then no. The battery comes from the store with a fuul charge. If it didn't come charged up, then you have bought a defective battery.

It depends on which diode, but sometimes it can.

This sounds similar to a problem I had once. In the end, replacing the battery cables solved the problem. If yours are old and you live in a climate where they're exposed to salt, humidity, or other corrosion, I'd start by replacing both battery cables. Or, if there doesn't appear to be any corrosion probability of bad cables themselves, try removing the cables from the battery, clean the terminals very well, reinstall them tightly and coat them with grease to prevent corrosion at the battery posts. You should probably also check the cleanliness and tightness of the connection where the Negative (-) cable bolts onto the car's frame (usually on the same side as the battery, just below the engine). Remove the screw, clean everything to bare metal, reinstall and tighten. Then cover with fresh grease (or vaseline will work - or spend a few bucks and buy battery terminal protectant spray).

Should give more info. Did they come on at the same time or days apart? Could you have 2 problems not just one? If they both came on together you could have a wiring problem. If it has a sensor for the light in the master cylinder it could just be low on fluid, bad sensor or damaged wiring to sensor. Have you checked the output of the alternator with a digital multimeter? Check it at the alternator first, should be 13-14 volts while running. You can check it at the battery also, again should be 13-14 volts while running.