Alternators

Go buy a Haynes Auto Repair manual for your car.

So far as I know there is a serpentine belt on this car, no alternator belt per se'.

Go buy a Haynes Auto Repair manual for your car. It's all in there.

First, disconnect the negative battery cable. Next, hook up your charger - since your alternator's bad, your battery is undercharged.

pull the rubber boot on the back of the alternator, remove the brass hex nut, and remove the wire. Replace the nut on the shaft. Then, pull the multiple wire plug from the 11:30 position (just left of the top of the alternator) -- there's a plastic clip on the back which must be pulled toward the back of the vehicle.

Next, use a breaker bar with 15mm socket or a long 15mm end wrench to turn the hex head on the tensioner pulley (It's on the passenger side at the front of the motor, fairly high) toward the driver side about a quarter turn or so, to release tension on the belt so you can slip the belt off the front. Carefully release tension on the 15mm wrench.

Remove the long bolts from the bottom front of the alternator. Use a long strong screwdriver to pry the alternator up from the cradle, one side at a time.

Set aside the old alternator, and put the new one in the cradle. replace the 2 bottom mounting bolts and tighten pretty good but don't break the casting. replace the 2 wires. Using the 15mm wrench, again release tension on the belt tensioner, and while holding it in place, put the belt on the new alternator pulley. Carefully release tension. Use a bright light to be sure the serpentine belt is properly seated in all the pulleys (crankshaft, water pump, PS pump, alternator, and tensioner. remove all tools from under the hood.

Using your voltmeter or multitester, check that you have at least 12.4 v DC from the battery. replace the negative battery cable. start it and check the voltmeter for 14 volts. Return the old alternator to store for credit. You're done, but check the bolts in a week, just to be sure.

OEM is 330.00 Auto zone 150.00 after return of the old one.

There will be three bolts holding your alternator in place. One long bolt in towards the top back of it horizontally, this connects it to the engine. it is the last bolt you should take out and the first one you should put back in.

there is another bolt vertically in the front of it which goes down into a block which holds a horizontal bolt.

Once you get the main long bolt in the back screwed in and tightened down. Best to hand tighten down all the way before ratcheting as it will be a tight fit for a ratchet. Then you should screw the horizontal bolt through the block and into the alternator, but do not tighten it down. make sure to put your timing belt back on before going any further. Then take the four inch bolt that goes vertically and screw it into the alternator support and into the block. The block should have a threaded hole and a smooth hole. You want to stick the vertical bolt through the threaded hole.

You want to tighten that vertical bolt down until you can't move the belt. this puts the tension on the belt that runs the car. you can then tighten down the horizontal bolt. Put the plug back on and screw down the wire that should be somewhere near the top.

that's about it.

In an alternator, there are two main parts, one is stationary part and other is rotating part. Field winding may be placed on fixed part(stator) as in case of DC generator and on rotating part(rotor) as in case of AC genarators. Armature winding may be placed on rotating part(rotor) in case of DC generator and on stationary part (stator) in case of AC generator. In AC generators, for all practical purposes you have rotating filed system.

Simple, just replace your alternator..

i NEED A LITTLE HELP MY FRIENDS....ANYBODY OUT THERE?

If you are pausing between notches, that will not hurt anything.

Where is the tensioner

Sometimes, with the vehicle running, you can remove the positive lead from the battery and the vehicle with either keep running or stop. If it stops that can mean the alternator is bad. This is not 100% accurate, depending on the type vehicle, etc.

The alternator may not be charging it enough. With the engine running at an idle check the voltage at the battery with a DC digital voltmeter. It should read from 13.5 to 15.5 Volts. Anymore, or any less, and the alternator is suspect. You might also have a defective battery.

On most vehicles today the voltage regulator is built into the alternator. If that is the case then just replace the alternator. If the voltage regulator is external on your vehicle then replace the voltage regulator.

If your battery is loosing it's charge overnight then there is a few things that can cause this. The most common cause is a battery that has a dead cell. The way to find out is to park the car in the evening and disconnect the negative battery cable. When you get up the next morning reconnect the negative cable and see what you find. If the battery has run down then the battery has a dead cell and needs replacing. If the battery is fine then you know you have another problem. More than likely you have a light that is on or a relay that is stuck. Check all the lights on the vehicle. Interior, brake lights, under hood, trunk, glove box, etc. If none of the lights are one then start checking for a stuck relay.

Both are actually the same in many ways. A regular motor can be used to generate electricity if turned by an outside source(pulley and belt) Example,,,wind generators are basically motors operated by the paddles of the windmill turning the armature of the motor.

Yes and no. It won't drain the battery directly, but it will cause your alternator to not produce enough power for your electrical system, thus the battery makes up the difference and yes, it will drain with no way to recharge, since the alternator is not producing enough, or any power. If you own a dodge ram, so you should bookmark this website below. They have a very full online forum that covers everything you would ever think of concerning Dodge trucks. RamchargerCentral.com (I'm member ElectricSquid, check out the Project: TrenchBuster build)

i have had problems with my 88 mark VII and ended up getting sick of replacing fuseable links, so i grabed a part of a wireing harness from a mustang gt and re wired from the alternator charge wire to the starter relay(fender mounted)

I'm rebuilding my alternator tomorrow, I got a rebuild kit w/instructions for $16 from autozone, which is a lot cheaper then the $60-$100 dollars for an already rebuild one

Initially your car might run rough when power supply is removed from the ECU, for a few mintues the ECU needs to re-learn how to run the engine at idle and in normal operating conditions. If you have ran the engine for a while this should then no longer be a problem. If it persists then there may have been some damage caused by voltage spikes to the ECU.

well I'm not quite sure on a '93 but on my 86 Si there is a hard as hell little bolt in an arced slotted bracket. if its been on a while you might have to loosen it alot or take it off all together. Once you have done that then simply take the belt off. (first you might have to take off the power steering and AC compressor belt. second as i said if its been on a while you'll have to pry it some to get it to swivel.) After the belt is off put the new belt on and then put the adjustment screw in until just slightly snug(you still want to be able to move it at this point CRUCIAL!. now here is where you need either an extra person with strength and someone to tighten the bolt. get a something you can use to pry the alt. (possibly what you used to pry it loose) till the belt is fairly taught. however be very careful on how you pry at it so as not to bust it. Also over tightening it may harm the pulley which is bad. the proper tension would be when you push on the belt with firm but not hard pressure it will give about a quarter of an inch(after you've tightened the adjustment screw. once you get proper tension go ahead and tighten down the screw as hard as you can use a cheater bar for extra leverage would be a good idea. put the rest of the belt you took off back on (p/s and A/C doesn't work on mine so i left them off) and start the car. if it squeaks its to loose(don't use belt dressing) just loosen the screw and pry it more taught and re tighten screw and try starting again. once you get the whole bit done drive the car around for about 20-40 minutes because the belt will get warmed up and also stretch a little bit. (it took mine about 3 hours to get completely worked in) after that recheck the tension the deflection of the belt should be between 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch with firm pressure as mentioned below. now enjoy a better MPG a better charged battery and a squeak free drive.

NOTE!make sure you have the belt seated in the grooves respectively you don't want the thing fly off at 3k RPM's and getting wrapped around other pulleys and totaling your car.

With a Bosch rebuilt which is guaranteed, (shop around) and about $150-200 Samoans, labor is about two hours from a good mechanic, here in Maine we get it done about $280.00 total. VVVVVVVVVVVVVroooooooooooommmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!!!!!

alternator fuse... your silly... DOES NOT EXIST would you like some blinker fluid also? ... or maybe even ... A FLUX CAPACITOR for a dellorian? sorry, no insult intended... but seriously though, there is no fuse for the alternator because it generates electricity and sends it to the batt./ign. good luck though. i don't know who posted that but there actually is an alternator fuse. under the hood right behind the passenger side headlight in the fuse relay, the lamp check fuse is part of the charging system as well as the 3rd fuse down on the second column of the fuse box next to your pedals in the driver side. if one or both of the fuses are blown a no charge situation will occur. so technically there is an alternator fuse. also note:the battery light in the instrument cluster, is actually an alternator light. i just got done fixing this problem on my 87 300ZX N/A.

The rattling may be the bearings going out of your alternator. Batteries normally do not rattle. If the bearings are going out they may begin to seize up and instead of the alternator pulley turning, the belt is slipping on the pulley as the bearings get tight. Take the belt off the alternator pulley and see if you feel and grinding or tightness when you spin the pulley. If you do, change it out now. The reason the lights are going dim is because your alternator is not spinnign at the needed rpms to keep the battery charged and thus the dimming and slowing eventually you will have a dead battery too boot.

First off this is not an easy job. Safety first disconnect the battery. Vehicle should be up on a rack to get to everything. when it is up in the air remove the inner fender plastic and the plastic cover behind the alternator. Next move the tensioner and remove the belt. Remove the bolt from the lower ball joint then remove the cotter pin and nut off of the tie rod end. You will need a ball joint fork and a hammer to release the ball joint and tie rod end. Remove the center nut from the hub holding the axle in. There are two nuts holding the axle carrier in remove those to remove the axle. Remove the two bolts holding the lower control arm then remove the control arm and axle. Once that is done you can remove the three bolts holding the alternator. You need a long extension and a swivel socket to get to the bolts. You need to be underneath and come in above the crossmember to reach the top bolt and the lower inner bolt. The lower outer bolt you can get from the outside through the fender. Once the alternator is loose disconnect the wires on the back of it. This is tough to wiggle around but you can get to them. The nut holding the hot wire on the back is a 10mm be careful not to break the plug in connection when you unplug that. When that is done push the alternator up and out of the way. there are three bolts holding the alternator bracket on. You must remove those and then the bracket in order to get the alternator out. With some twisting and turning it should come out through the hole where the axle was. That is the removal process. It is a major pain in the butt. I am a professional auto tech and I just did one today. I really hope I never do another. To replace it you really need to follow the directions in reverse. I would really suggest taking it to the dealer or a garage that you trust. This is a tough job. The engineer of this system should be clubbed and caged for this brilliant idea. This is the worst I have changed to date and I have done hundreds. If you attempt it at home be careful and take your time.

I have replaced my alternator 4 times. Lucky me. This description is very accurate, but the last three times I have been able to replace it without removing the ball joint, or tie rod end or lower control arm. I just remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the strut and swing the wheel bearing assembly down and out barely far enough to remove the axle. It is tight but with a little wiggling you can save a lot of work.

Just did this today on a 02 Tribute. I too was able to remove it without removing the ball joint, or tie rod end or lower control arm. Deff. a pain to wiggle out and back in, way harder than it should be. With the right tools I was able to do this in about 4 1/2 hrs (uninstall and reinstall).

Just finished changing one out and it can be removed from the top. It takes some will along with some twisting and turning but it will fit through. Saves a ton of work.

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I was going to try it but I saw a different suggestion and tried it. You can remove the alternator at the top.

Take out the right wheel and turn it all the way right. Then remove the crankshaft and a/c cover so you can remove the serpentine belt. remove the plastic cover behind the alternator. use a small pry bar. remove the 3 bolts from the alternator . 2 at the bottom and one at the top. patience here. the angle of this bolts are f!#$@#!in stupid. dish out some swear words if necessary. remove the wiring of course.

At the top, remove the black plastic cylinder kind of shape like a football at the firewall. disconnect the vacuum tube from the intake going to the brake booster (set aside to the left ). on top of the cylinder is the computer remove the two bolts and pull the computer about 1.5 inch. This is only for clearance. place a drain pan under the crank pulley . You're about to spill whatever is in the p/s reservoir. Disconnect the Power Steering (P/s) hose from the top of the p/s pulley. 18 to turn and 19mm open wrench to hold it down and snake down and to the left. you might need a new o- ring to reinstall this hose.

Get a foam cover to lay face down on top of the engine. near halfway now. Reach down and find a way to pull the alternator out. It might be helpful if you have someone to help you push it up from the bottom.

It took me 5 hours mostly because of trying to figure things out and having to go and buy the alternator. I bet it can be done in 2.5 hours. Good Luck.

There are four simple steps to try initially:

1) Clean up the seized fastener... if the photo with this question is anything to go by this will take a while :-)

2) Use a penetrating lubricant liberally. Use brushes to work it in, further cleansing the area.

3) Rock the fastener in both directions... particularly effective if it starts to come undone then jams. Add more lube as you go...

4) Try a freeze and release spray... very effective and much safer than heat around delicate electrics.

Remove Battery Negative Cable & secure away from post. Release tension on Belt Tensioner & remove Serpentine Belt from Alternator Pulley. Remove Battery Cable & Electrical Plug from Alternator. If applicable, remove Power Steering Line Clip from Alternator. Remove Alternator Mounting Bolts. Remove Alternator. Installation is reverse.....

Disconnect the battery and just remove the bolts holding the alternator, disconnect the wire connection and remove the alternator.