Auto Body and Interiors

It depends on where you live, forget it in Arizona, New Mexico and states with a similar climate. I on the other hand live in Ohio and have worked on cars for about forty years. Here rustproofing went out of favor back in the eighties because the factories made big improvements in their corrosion protection. Apparently that has changed. I am sliding underneath cars and trucks that are only three and four years old that already have numerous rust spots that will clearly get bigger. I go under five and six year old cars that have real rust problems. In this part of the country brake and fuel lines are big business, but it is a business that I would rather not have. If you do get rust proofing make sure that the car is completely dry before the coating is applied. I have seen dealerships wash a car and immediatly spray it, sealing some water in, not out

The windshield washer motor is located on the passenger side firewall

the light in the roof is called the interior or dome light. if the light is on a door it is called a courtesy light

lets u know what the damage is and what its gonna cost to fix it.

It should be with the jack and spare tire.

There's going to be more to it than that, truck frames are intended to have some flex between the cab and the bed, so you would have to add some more reinforcement there. And legally if you modify the frame you ought not sell the vehicle, just because doing so voids the factory warranty, so in the event of a collision you take full responsibility of the durability of the frame to withstand impact. Just something to be aware of. With that said I'm planning on doing the same, making the GMC equivalent of the Ford Excursion out of a one ton dually. Installing the interior creature comforts and running climate control, lighting, speakers, and whatever else you want back there will be the real money pit for you. And something else to keep in mind, the bed of the truck is not flat, making mounting things back there a bit more awkward, and the frame of the truck does not exactly lend itself to fold flat SUV seats. If you;re going for a full blown SUV conversion you'll have a bit of work ahead of you, or you can pay someone like Centurion to do it for you. Another option would be dropping a different engine in an SUV, like Duraburb does. There is a company that does the same with Ford vehicles, in southern Florida. Look around some more and decide what route you want to go.

Don't know what the labor rates are in your area but it should only take .5 hour to r&r that mirror with a new one.

They will be on the underside of the spare tire cover and also in the owner's manual.

Ask your adjuster to provide documentation on how he/she arrived at the dollar amount. If you've done upgrades to the car (keyless entry, new stereo, front end work, etc) provide receipts and that will up your payout. Use nada.com as a good guide to the car's actual cash value and find classified ads, car lots ads to prove your price if you have to.

Hey Ron==This is a pretty big job and unless you are a pretty good mechanic I suggest you take it to an auto trim shop. The trim has to come off of the door then you have undoo the linkage that holds the window and there are very sharp places inside the doors. If you want to tackle it I suggest you get a manual that shows this repair. You will have it for the next repair. GoodluckJoe

Epoxy is good for sticking mirrors on.

It's hard to get a paint to stick to stainless. Use an etching primer and then an enamel-type of paint.

Drop the transmission pan, then the transmission filter. It should be staring at you. The ls takes 11.9 quarts of trans fluid V6 or v8 (same transmission). Most of the fluid will be in your torque converter so you get about 40% out and then only have to put 4-5 back in. As you know you do not have a Trans dipstick for this car. You will instead need to fill it back up with a small fluid pump. You can search this step on google. Don't forget to change the filter. Might as well you're taking it off any way, plus they come with the transmission pan gasket you need to put the pan back on. Also check your torque specs for the pan, and don't bend it. It's quite a costly woops. Good luck.

Projectiles. I've had two cracked mini windshields in two years, both caused by gravel flying around in traffic. A mini's windshield is low to the ground and there isn't much of an aerodynamic slipstream to deflect force of impact. If you see debris coming off of other vehicles the best thing to do is slow down and let them get far ahead.

Typically it will not be worth repairing when you compare the cost of purchased a recycled or used 99 Intrigue sun visor which can be done anywhere from $10-50 depending on where you shop.

If you need help finding one check out this blog post:

http://www.oempartsguys.com/blog/how-to-find-your-replacement-sun-visor/

Mechanical parts at any supply house. Body parts may be available through aftermarket, Certi-Fit is a supplier of aftermarket body parts, mostly front end but has some other pieces for some makes and models.

Yes it does. the different in the paint classifications relates to degrees of prep ie: primer surfacer, primer sealer, sanding proceedures, and additives (catalysts etc)

The film is initially placed on the outside in order to cut the pattern of the glass. A protective liner is then removed and a slip solution is sprayed on the adhesive side of the film. The film is then placed on the inside and the air and water are squeegeed out. Many pro shops use a plotter to cut their film so they skip the first step. The art of cutting film may be lost soon...

Eventually as your car ages you began to notice that the headliner of your car's interior is becoming loose and unglued. It seems that it happens around eight to 10 years after you've had your car. First, it starts out as a minor bubble of material hanging from your car's roof. As you're driving along you may notice it in your rearview mirror. Maybe it blocks your vision for the first time, and that is your first tip off that you have a headliner problem. Let's take a look at some possible solutions to this pain in the neck problem.

Some folks try all kinds of crazy, temporary solutions to their saggy headliner problems. Thumbtacks have been used to stick the headliner to the roof. What eventually happens is the thumbtack comes out and you get a very painful surprise, one day, as you sit down in your car. Shall we say that the thumbtack solution doesn't work for very long? It doesn't and let's move on.

Another solution is to use T shaped pins that are used by hobbyists, embroiderer's, for macram�, etc. These T-shaped pins have about an inch of surface area. For a while, pushing these pins into the headliner to hold his sagging material works. But it is ugly, and eventually the headliner sags in other places.

You can also try some spray adhesive to fix a sagging headliner. Maybe this will solve the problem. Then again, it may not last more than a day or so. Try it and it may work for you. I wouldn't pin my hopes on using spray adhesive on my headliner for very long.

The problem is that the foam that is glued to the fabric. It becomes crumbly and disintegrates into messy little bits that get into your hair and all over your car's interior. Trying to spray glue, while the headliner is still up there, won't work for long. The foam will keep crumbling and glue won't stick to it. It's sort of like trying to glue some cloth to the ground. No way will it stick.

There is a temporary fix on the do-it-yourself aisles in the automotive weekend warrior stores. It is a product that has a little curly cue, and a clear plastic head. The product is called a "Saggy Stopper". The clear head blends in with your headliner's color. It looks promising for a temporary fix.

The only thing that really will work is to replace the old headliner with a new one. This entails either spending some money with a professional installer or doing it yourself. There are kits that you can buy for about $30-$40 that have the foam backed cloth and the adhesive. Do-it-yourself auto parts stores carry this stuff. You can also buy foam backed cloth in fabric stores and save some money. It comes by the yard with the foam already attached.

Doing it yourself is going to be time consuming. You are going to have to unscrew the trim that holds the headliner. It's going to take some time and patience to get a headliner out of your car. You will have to remove all the crumbly foam from the headliner board with a stiff brush. You need a solid, clean surface to re-glue your new material to.

One fellow that has done this time consuming task recommends using a product called Sobo. Sobo is a fabric glue that craft people use for their projects. It is sort of like the white glue that kids use. You apply this to the headliner backer board, and weight down the fabric until it dries. Others have suggested using a cheap bristle brush to brush on liquid adhesive. The key is to have a clean surface for the new foam backed cloth to adhere to. After the cloth is applied, you reinstall the headliner board into your car.

Temporary fixes are simply not going to work. You have to take the headliner board out of your car. Then you have to brush off all the crumbly foam bits so that you have a firm surface to glue your new fabric to. If this seems too daunting a task then have a professional do the work.

Here is a link that may be helpful:

http://www.automedia.com/Headliner_Replacement/res20000717hu/1

Personally, I'd take it to someone who knows what they are doing and avoid the frustration, unless I was looking for a quick fix.

PLEASE NO! Dont do this! I have an custom auto upholstery shop and this is always an issue when people attempt to fix their own headliner. Let me explain, In most modern vehicles there is a headliner board and to this board a foam backed cloth is basically glued. As time passes the foam backing begans to die, for lack of a better word, and when this happens the cloth begans to sag. If you should choose to use spray adhessive to bond the cloth to the board it will not look well and it will make it very difficult for your upholstery guy or girl to properly prepare your board to be recovered the correct way. At some point the intire headliner board will have to be removed and covered with new material. If you try to fix this yourself with spray adhessive and your old material you will only cause more work for the proffessional upholsterer and that will amount in more cost. Most headliners can be recovered for around $100.00, of course the cost goes up if you have a sunroof or T-tops, etc. You would be much happier spending the money to have it done by a proffessional. If you are in the Souther Indiana area I would be happy to take a look at it. just email me Yes - It worked for me on an older vehicle and it looked alright - a can of glue is cheaper than an upholsterer. I live in Canada.

Inside the front timing cover. While you are in there would be a good time to tab the killer dowel pin (KDP). It would also be a good time to set the P-7100 injection pump timing (94-98 models).

Check eBay and you should able to see a picture of one. I'm not a bodyman, but I believe a clip consists of the two front fenders, grill and hood.

A Front Clip consists of the complete body parts from the front: radiator support, front fenders, hood, and bumper, spoilers, lights etc. The complete front assembly

A front clip is every thing from the firewall forward