Buick Century

If the key doesn't turn at all, make sure you have the right trunk key, i.e. one that worked before. Many times the ignition and trunk key are different. If it is the right key then the cylinder may be frozen. The remote opens the latch a different way. Try spraying some liguid wrench into the key hole and keep trying to turn it. if the works spray silicone spray or lock lubricant to oil the lock afterwards.

If the cylinder does turn and doesn't release the door, look inside to see if the inside lock mechanism is broken.

the oil filter is on the left hand side of the engine (if you are looking at it from the front of the car with the hood open), behind the crank pulley.

Late model fuel systems are typically "pressurized" systems that keep the injector fuel racks under a constant pressure.., This is accomplished by an electric fuel pump which (believe it or not) is immersed inside the FUEL TANK!!! On most models up until 1997, the fuel tank had to be removed to get at the fuel pump.... an expensive and DANGEROUS job costing anwhere from 300 to 600 bucks depending on the condition of the fuel lines, tank etc. Later models 1997 and on have and access panel under the carpeting in the trunk that allows you to gain access to the lock ring for the fuel pump. Be WARNED!! if you are a DIYer. MAKE SURE that the tank is as empty as possible; the area is well ventilated and you use tools that don't make sparks i.e rubber mallets etc otherwise you may be completing your repair on the moon while playing a harp...good luck..RONCO PS.... it is not uncommon for these pumps to get quite noisy with age ( the unexplained "whinning" you hear from the rear of the car while driving..... the noise does not mean that failure is imminent...some cars run for years with this condition I changed this pump/sending unit today on my 1999 Century. There is a small panel on the floor of the trunk between the spare tire and rear seat. Remove the rear seat and seat back. Pull up the sound deadening material and secure it out of your way. Push the trunk carpeting into the trunk area to reveal the fuel pump access panel. Remove the nuts that hold the panel. Pry up the panel and remove it. Now you have access to the pump module. (This would be a good time to vacuum off the top of the tank and defective module) There are 2 electrical connections to be removed. One of them is a normal push on weather tight connection and the other has a security pin to pull out before you can disconnect it. Push both plugs out of the way under the edge of the opening. Now is the messy part. NO SMOKING OR OPEN FLAMES FROM HERE ON...PLEASE DO THIS OUTSIDE. Remove the gas cap. The fuel lines are under pressure but less than one cup will spill out when you remove the one closest to the rear of the car. (I don't know where the pressure relief is on this car) There is a special tool for removing the (3) quick connectors on top of the fuel tank. I used a small screwdriver to depress white plastic locks on the front and rear connectors. Once they were unlocked I covered them with a rag and moved them to the left to relieve the pressure but not entirely off the neck of the connection. The middle connector is different. Either squeeze the sides or pull the top up and the bottom down to unlock it. Now you have the electrical and fuel lines disconnected. Remove the metal locking ring that holds the unit against the fuel tank by flexing it toward the center so that you can allow it to jump over the retaining channel on the fuel tank. When the retaining ring is removed you may see the fuel pump module jump upward out of the tank so keep you hand over it to control the expansion. Lift the module out of the fuel tank and be careful because it holds gasoline in the lower cup shaped area. I was able to tilt the unit to pour out some of the gasoline back into the tank before I handed it to a helper standing behind the car. The hardest part about installing the new pump was the new sealing ring underneath the flange on the pump module. It helped to use white grease on the sealing ring and tank opening to help the module to seat completely before reinstalling the retaining ring. There is also a positioning tab that lines up with a space on top of the tank to help you rotate the assembly to the correct position. I also lubricated the fuel line connectors internally with the same grease to help them slide back on the modules male connectors. After you have reinstalled the fuel lines, gas cap and electrical connectors, have a helper to turn on the ignition to energize the pump and check for leaks where you reinstalled the fuel line quick connectors. If you don't see any leaks then start the engine and check for leaks again. Replace the access panel and restore the trunk area to the original configuration. (I was able to complete this repair in an hour) GM dealer wanted $423 for the pump module but I found a new one on Ebay for $118. NOTE: the sending unit can be replaced alone but it is just as much work as changing out the complete module (and you get a NEW pump).

The oil filter is located directly above the drain plug. It's well hidden and hard to see unless you know where to look.

If you look on both sides of the light housing you will see to white clips. Push up on the clips and the housing releases. Just push it forward and remove the rubber caps and replace the bulb.

Under the left front door. Under the vehicle back near the fuel tank.

IT'S A CONTEMPORARY LANGUAGE THAT WE ALL SPEAK.

Most vehicles have a fuse box under the dash and a fuse box/relay center under the hood or elsewhere in the vehicle. The Park Ave has a fuse box under the hood and under the rear seat. You could check there too.

On top of the engine midway next to the firewall. Unscrew canister top and remove old filter. Install new 0-rings that come with the new filter and reinstall.

Yes, they can be replaced. According to Crutchfield.com, the front dash speakers are 4" x 6".

If the engine is the 2.2L Ecotec 4 cylinder engine it uses a canister filter (Fram # PH9018 I believe) under a black cap that is located on top of the engine on the front driver side. If you have a plastic ecotec cover on the engine you will need to remove it by pulling on it to release the clips. You should then see the cap in the described location. Use a 1 1/4" wrench/ratchet to remove the cap. (pull off the cap off before you replace the oil plug otherwise you won't remove a lot of the oil). Pull the old filter off the cap and clip the new one on and replace the gasket on the cap. Put new oil on the gasket and screw the cap back into the engine. Then put the oil plug back in the engine. Then add oil. The engines that use a regular oil filter are the 3.5L V-6 and the 3.9L V6.

This condition sounds like the transmission locking solenoid is bad. Condition is similar to having a frozen clutch except this is an automatic. To test, unplug the the wire connector to the solenoid on the transmission. If the problem clears up, then the solenoid is bad and not the tranny. You can drive it with the solenoid unpluged with only a minor impact to fuel economy at higher speeds (above 40 mph).

Inside the transmission. Pan on bottom of transmission must be removed to access the filter.

Assuming you are asking about the throttle position sensor it is mounted on the throttle body and is operated by the throttle shaft.

Is it an "auto dimming" instrument backlighting arrangement? Does it just show you the LED' of the clock, radio station, Driver Information Center? Does it get really dim on the LED's at night when the headlights turn on? I have this problem an am looking for answers. So far, the fuses are fine, I get power. I don't know whether it is the auto-dimmer light sensor on the dash or the traditional light switch at the left. Before shot-gunning it with parts, I thought I would do a little research.

Addition:

The problem is within the circuitboard itself, I refurbish these boards because I know they are a common problem with Centuries and Regals. Contact me at ANCTechnologies at Hotmail.com and I would be more than willing to help you.

u can do it from the top but u have to move the coil pack assembly and alternator which will take some time or do it from the bottom if you can get the car up high enough

This is "BBAASPENCER" here in TN and I would like to give you another answer. Actually, the correct way GM list in their service manual is to take off the engine dog bones, put gear in neutral, attach a pulling strap to the engine and hoist and roll it until you gain access. That is the same procedure for many SUV/Van GM front wheel drives. If the first procedure listed here works for you, I'm okay with that. I just wanted to give you another option.

There is not an individual or separate fuse for the odometer

sounds like a intake gasket leak does it also use antifreeze or have oily residue on radiator cap needs intake gaskets gaskest set around $100.00 takes about 6 hours

Jack and support vehicle Remove wheel Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place remove 2 caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully seat piston in caliper body remove and replace inner and outer pads Re-install caliper Depress brake pedal 2 or 3 times to set pads against rotor PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE Re-install wheel

flasher buick century

caravel is a small, highly maneuverable, two- or three-masted lateen-rigged ship, created by the Portuguese and used also by them and by the Spanish for long voyages of exploration from the 15th century. It's derived from the qarib used by Muslim Andalusian explorers in the 13th century.[2] caravel is a small, highly maneuverable, two- or three-masted lateen-rigged ship, created by the Portuguese and used also by them and by the Spanish for long voyages of exploration from the 15th century. It's derived from the qarib used by Muslim Andalusian explorers in the 13th century.[2] caravel is a small, highly maneuverable, two- or three-masted lateen-rigged ship, created by the Portuguese and used also by them and by the Spanish for long voyages of exploration from the 15th century. It's derived from the qarib used by Muslim Andalusian explorers in the 13th century.[2]

Haven't had to do this yet on the Old Jalopy, but have done it on other GM cars, and they're all pretty much the same. Wiggle and pull the wiper arms off their shafts, then remove the cowl from around the base of the windshield. It has 7mm bolts across the front and one at both corners. Detach the wiper linkage from the crank or the crank from the motor shaft. Inside the engine compartment up against the firewall, remove the wiring connector from the wiper motor assembly and unbolt the assembly from the firewall. Probably three bolts are holding it on, through rubber bushings.

To actually "flush" the coolant in this vehicle you will need a flush machine. To do that we did at the dealership, drain the radiator (you need a 1/4 inch ratchet and 1 inch extension) then use a vacuum fill too to fill with new coolant.

Your car may be low on Brake fluid. Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. There is usually a line that shows how much fluid should be in the reservoir. It should be pretty full, so add fluid if needed. Perhaps you have some sort of brake fluid leak?

You can use almost any type of coolant. The coolant that General Motors them self suggest using is called Dexcool.

The GM antifreeze is more expensive and the only tangible differences are 1 the color and 2 the life of the product. "Dexcool" which is just a more expensive, longer lasting coolant. You are able to introduce Prestone or Wal-Mart brand or whatever you like into the system. It will all work fine and will NOT hurt your system, I promise.